heres the latest regarding the h23. I had instaleld the cams and the gears and got the manual tensioenr one and got the timign belt squared away when i went to put ont eh top outside cover and realised that the bolts on the adjustable cam gears was protruding out and interfering with the cover.
this next pic is the begining to the solution i had come to.
The holes are to help the cohesion of the resin...
^ the outside orf the cover, before unwrapping the releasefilm.
^ the inside of the cover before .
cloer pic of inside before unrwrap and finish.
^problem solved... Timing cover adjusted so that there is no interference and it is still sealed.
Next.
Getting the oil pickup and pan back in. I will be using royal purple ont his engine so i made sure to fill the oil pump up and crankt eh engine over a couple times and then fill the oil pump up again before installing the pickup. Be sure to have oil filter on when you do this.
Im using the steel pan that came with the h23 as my h22a4 aluminum one is going to be powdercoated, then put on the h23VTEC later on.
Due to no gasket at all, i made sure to apply the sealeeant so as there is adequate squish, as shown above.
Before there is any more progress i have to make sure to yankt he still working H22a4 outta my car so that i can get some supporting parts off to help ease the swap.
The engine out.
T2W4 broken off, exposing the centerforce dual friction that was used.(these will be replace with a spec 3+ as well as spec lightweight flywheel(as seen in pics above).
When this removal was taking place, i had my freind assist me in setting up my camera to take pictures every ten seconds, its a pretty cool thing, a time lapse h22 removal.
One side note is that the front crossmember of my car was taken out permanently. I have an ESP bar to replcae it as well as the fornt radius rods. Also, when i have some time i will be retrofitting a set of upper control arms with new bushings and adjustable ball joints and installing them aswell. Pics to follow later.
heres a good shot, for those that do not know; this pic refers to the timing cog ont he crank pulley. This cog form the h22a4 has to be removed and switched over so that the oil pump located CPS can function. Now, i was going to leave this engine CPS int he dizzy however seeing as i wanted to make it a basic drop in swap i relocated the sensor by using the h22a4 as well as swapping over the dizzy(after replacing the o rings and checking it for wear etc).
As of now the H23VTEC is in the car and bolted to the mounts. It still needs to be hooked up and tweaked and what not but that will come in time.
getting the intake manifold on, the only real reason to using the hodnata manifold gasket is that A) it is reusable, and B) you never have to scrap paper gasket off.
heres the 5m bolts i used after cutting off the stock TPS fasteners. This is a Blox 68mm throttle body.
and the 4m bolts used to replace the MAP senosr fasteners. I bought these at a home depot from a metric nut and bolt bin. Make sure to use correct washers.
the clutch that is going on this h23vtec is a Spec Stage3+, i could have used the centerforc dual friction that was on the h22 but i want to get this cluuthc and flywheel setup broken in for the turbo build that is around the corner.
more clutch...note i used the allan drive fasteners rather than the OEM 12 point.
clutch and transmission pre mating....very nice combination this setup is.
now the engine and trnas together, getting ready to go into the car.
heres the AEM wide band thast i put into the exhuast collector, there are additional bungs that were put in upon creation to accomodate an 02 sensor, a wideband, as well as a spare.
These last two pictures are pictures i forgot to put in earlier that show the inside of the timing cover that i had customeized to make clearance room for the cam sprocket adjustment bolts. These pictures show the inside after the release film was removed and some finishing sanding was done.
I spent 68 days, up in northern canada workign, so i hadnt really got anyhting done over the past couple months.
Anway, seeing as the car has been up on stands i have been repalcing all my bushings and ball joints and control arms. Here are the fornt top with a 1.5° adjustable ball joint. These are the opem part powder coated red with gold flake with new Energy suspension bushings. The rear will be coming shortly.
I also did my suspension forks as they were quite rusty, so i blasted them and then had a freind powdercoat them as well.
After blasting:
after coating and putting back on struts:
Also, since i am getting all my suspeniosn peices retorfitted back to new shape, i figured i woudl polish the ESP radius rods and then have them pwdercoated as well. They turned out quite nice.
I received and moutned the bisi moto header as well. Unfortunatly, it doesnt fit near as wella s i was hoping it would. I knew there would be som modding needed to make it work, but didnt think that it would be that much. Heres some pics of the header from above and below.
As it sits currently, i have the h23VTEC all wired up, i need to put on the serpentine belts, as well as the rad and the fans. Before i put the rad on i will be makign a carbon fiber rad shroud, so that i can mount up a slim line fan electric fan. After i get it made up i will psot some pics.
I came acorss one flaw, my left lower front control arm, needed to be replaced as the taper where the ball joint sits was out of round. I had the LCA's all blasted and ready for powdercaoting and new bushings but now i have to go and get a new one, so i will post pics of those later when they are done.
Last edited by bouckarooo; 04-05-2012 at 10:04 AM.
Heres some quick shots of the carbon shroud i finished making this afternoon. I still need to spray on the finishing laquer but so far it fits nice, looks good and will make great add onto the car. Also, i have some more suspeniosn components that have been powdercoated, tomorow or whener i get some time i will take some pics of thema shtey receive new bushing etc and then post them up.
It fits nicely and although it could have been better I am very happy with how it turned out. I will take pictures of the current fan and shroud setup and then have a side by side comparison so you can see the difference in thickness between the two.
^ yes it is being sent back and they are going to remake the down tube section. They are shipping it at no charge to me and they are going to fix it and also send me the correct ballflange setup for it. All in all, i dont mind spending the moeny as this bisi header, regardless of who says whats, the damn header is still better than the oem one and possibly better(or worse) than the tri y i currently have.
Heres a good before and after pic of the front spindles while i was media blasting them clean. I am using red powder coat to recoat all the peices. I am doing this so that next time i go to work on the car all the suspension components will be easily visible and clean and pleasurable to work on.
Heres a shot of the rear spindles without the ball joints or wheel hubs. Alogn with this pic is the front lower control arms, one with bushigns and one without, i figured i would take picture of them in stages just cuz. Also here is all the bolts required to re assemble the spindles and get them back into car. Not pictured are the front spindles, i will be taking pics of them tonight and posting them.
I couldnt find a poly bushing for the frame side of the LCA, so i used the Moog OEM replacment. Some people say that the 4th gen LCA frame bushing fits but i ordered those and they do not fit, nor do the SH frame side. So if anyone is looking for those parts let me know, they will go cheap.
This last pic is of the driver lower control arm; the one radius rod hole was stripped badly so i used a drill to bore it to 31/64" then used a helicoil to repair the hole.
exactly. Even if the Bisi header produces more gains than the stock, that means it's already a winner. All I hear lately is that Bisi is absolute crap. People provide proof that it's not a great header, but seriously, wtf? all that matters is it make more gains than oem. That's all that matters.
I got the finish coat on the shroud and then riveted the fan to it, now i need to make the mounts so it will mount to the rad and then it will be ready to go in the car.
This shroud was made of 2 sheets of 6k 11oz. 2x2 twill carbonfiber, a little tougher to work with than the 3k but a little stronger so it should do the trick nicely. Here's a picture of the old fan and shroud setup right next to this one; by making this CF shroud i have reduced the thickness of the setup by about 1.5inches.
Heres pictures of the front spindles, these are cleaned up and pwodercoated, awaiting new wheel bearings. Note the inside of the wheel bearing receiver, i had to clean some rust out of it as the previous person who had the wheel bearings our hadn't installed them correctly and this caused a layer of rust to from on the lip inside the spindle. I will be replacing the spring retainer clips as well.
I have new wheel bearings showing up on tuesday, and at that point i will install the lower ball joints on front and rear as well as wheel bearings then all the suspension is set to go back into the car.
After that i have some minor work to do on my interior then it is set for startup and tuning. I will post more down the road.
Last edited by bouckarooo; 04-22-2012 at 02:07 PM.
Man you should produce some more of those shrouds, I'd bet people would buy them for both the bling factor and the fact that the biggest drawback of a slim fan is a lack of a shroud.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
^ the issue with doing that is each one needs to be made to fit a specific radiator, not all rads will have the ports in the same spot or the drain. If you are interested, then let me know and im sure i can figure somethign out
Last edited by bouckarooo; 04-22-2012 at 11:38 PM.
Ok, so over the past couple of days i had a little bit of time here and there to work on the car. I took the Spindles an dinstalled the lower ball joints, using the honda lwoer ball joint recall kit (like 80 bucks fromt eh stealership fro the two lower ball joints with nuts and cotter pins(but no castle nuts go figure). Here are some pics of the ball joints, the bearing and the hubs going on. The hubs are not powdercoated, they are painted NHBP (i wasnt going to paint them but then decided last mintue to just to make the spindles stand out a littel more.
The ball joint press i had wasnt fitting evry well with the spindles so i ended up using my bench vise to repalce the small c clamp tool, it worked out pretty good.
Now on to the wheel bearings. I used large 1" drive sockets as the press fodder to hold the spindle inplace and fit the bearing. Luckily for me they were only like 20 bucks each and they fit perfectly. They come from princess auto, i guess its the canuck version of harbour freight, either way cheap and conveinent. Remeber when putting in these bearings that the metal side of the bearing faces outwards and the plastic side faces inwards.
The wheel bearings bottomed out at about 6.5-7 tons.
Here is a pic of the srping retainer that is used to lock the wheel bearing in place. I replaced both of them with new ones, just so i know that they are all new and in great shape. This has to be done before you installed before the hub or you will be wasting a bearing as you will need to press it out again and replace it.
And now to press in the hubs.
The black really makes the red stand out. Looks nice.
Heres the passenger side spindle in place with the LCA and the UCA. I still need to put in the suspension fork but am currently awaiting new nuts to come form montreal, they should get here tomorow morning if i am lucky.
Also, i got soem light interior work done, i removed the ap2 sued stiched wheel and replaced it with a ap1 with perforated leather, then i flipped a coin to switch out my short shifter, it was between PSPEC and JTC, JTC won. After that was done i replced the red arm restf rom my type s door panels with black ones form my usdm panels, just to break up the red a bit. Then i installed a set of chrome bezels from an EDM lude. Also, i put in the carbon fiber radio trim and door trim(center console was previously installed) as well as installed a set of power folding mirors (although they are white, its ok, as i will be getting my body done this year at some point). Pic of it are below
When i bought my mirrors they had come with the wiring, the switch, the plugs everythign you need to run them, and seeing as i already had the heated mirrors i didnt even have to run any extra wiring. Kinda reminds me of a panda bear...japanda the prelude hahaha The JTC.
Hopefully, i wil have a few more days off of work and will be able to tie up the loose ends on this and get it to the tuning stage. I will post up some more pics and a video as soon as they are created and i have time.
Last edited by bouckarooo; 04-30-2012 at 02:09 PM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
When i bought my mirrors they had come with the wiring, the switch, the plugs everythign you need to run them, and seeing as i already had the heated mirrors i didnt even have to run any extra wiring.
Kinda reminds me of a panda bear...japanda the prelude hahaha
The JTC.
]
Linear Mode
