I know you guys get irritated over us noobs but its hard to compile threads together to get the answers im looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking for a step by step upgrade process. I have a 98 lude sh that i want to swap in a base ecu, tranny, and motor. I have 220,000 miles so ill be buying the base motor soon. I want to build it sothat it is faster, reliable, and turbo ready. I read a lot of discrepencies between cams and valvetrains. After i get the motor i plan on getting it sleeved with dart mid and bored to 88mm. As far as the pistons and rods are concerned im lost as far as size and compressions. I plan to put on a block gaurd and not sure wat brand to go with. I saw a kms valvetrain kit for $600 with the guard, springs, retainers, and valves but wasnt sure how they would hold up to skunk2 cams. Then which is better? skunk2 pro series stage 1-3 or tuner series 1-2? I was also thinking of a supercharger. Any help is appreciated.
well, skunk2 pro series is claimed to be best valvetrain what there is..you dont need that aggressive cams when youre going forged so I think that the valvetrain isnt THAT critical question there. I mean you might also get Brian Crower cams/valvetrain or some other known brand
Skunk2 Tuner Series Camshafts
Stage 1: Street/Race cam designed for stock engines with bolt-on modifications. Also good for supercharged applications and aggressive turbo applications. Upgraded valvetrain recommended, but not required.
Stage 2: Street/Race cam designed for engine with free-flowing intake and exhaust tracts, increased compression, and upgraded valvetrain.
Turbo 1: Street Turbo cam designed for lower boost, low rpm levels 5-10 psi. Ideal for basic street legal turbo kits.
Turbo 2: Street/Race Turbo cam designed for medium boost levels 10+ psi and slightly higher rpms. Ideal for custom turbo applications and supercharged applications.
pro series cams are more to the N/A builds
Like
Brian Crower Cams - STAGE 2 Boost (Honda H22) $489.70
VS
Skunk2 Tuner Cams Stage 2 $680
Brian Crower valvetrain $386.60
VS
Skunk2 Tuner series springs & titanium retainers $427
(pro series even more)
I dont know that much about building all this stuff, but I'm thinking yo're going to need to figure out if you want to turbo or not soon. being turbo ready means youre probably going to have a slow car until you have a turbo on it. Because in a stock engine youre running a pretty high compression that if you tried to run more than like 4 lbs... wouldnt be good. Rebuilding it, you can put in lower compression in but unless youre ready to turbo right away, the thing is gonne be pretty slow until you turbo it. I think you really dont want to run more than like 9:1 or something like that with a turbo, but stock preludes have more than that.
of course this may not be totally right. im sure someone will correct me if im not though. good luck with this!
well, skunk2 pro series is claimed to be best valvetrain what there is..you dont need that aggressive cams when youre going forged so I think that the valvetrain isnt THAT critical question there. I mean you might also get Brian Crower cams/valvetrain or some other known brand
Skunk2 Tuner Series Camshafts
Stage 1: Street/Race cam designed for stock engines with bolt-on modifications. Also good for supercharged applications and aggressive turbo applications. Upgraded valvetrain recommended, but not required.
Stage 2: Street/Race cam designed for engine with free-flowing intake and exhaust tracts, increased compression, and upgraded valvetrain.
Turbo 1: Street Turbo cam designed for lower boost, low rpm levels 5-10 psi. Ideal for basic street legal turbo kits.
Turbo 2: Street/Race Turbo cam designed for medium boost levels 10+ psi and slightly higher rpms. Ideal for custom turbo applications and supercharged applications.
pro series cams are more to the N/A builds
Like
Brian Crower Cams - STAGE 2 Boost (Honda H22) $489.70
VS
Skunk2 Tuner Cams Stage 2 $680
Brian Crower valvetrain $386.60
VS
Skunk2 Tuner series springs & titanium retainers $427
(pro series even more)
im really sorry if you are trying to offer good advice, but its wrong advice.
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Blake - Neptune Tuner/Dealer
ALL MOTOR big body honda that will eat your lunch
Id be more concernt about how to get grip than what cams to choose with supercharger.. does stock drivetrain handle 280whp? then you will need stage 3 clutch and LSD-tranny or some aftermarket differential... are you building street car? why would you need that much power in fwd car, I mean is it fast anymore if it just burn rubber car like that in daily driving......
Ok basiclly I want to build up a strong reliable engine that i can throw a supercharger on and not have to upgrade anything because its done. But i dont want it to be slow before that time like the one guy mentioned earlier. Not sure how much hp is actually a good amount... it is my daily driver but if im driving on the highway and a mustang, vette, vw or anyother car pull up beside me... i wanna show em that ludes shouldnt be underestimated. Plus I wanna out run my buddy's 2010 stock turboed maszdaspeed 3.
Even if you did supercharge and spend all that money on it he could just spend a little bit of money and still win. A turbo is way more efficient than a supercharger, the belt on a blower is parasitic to the engines power where a turbine is is spun by a natural byproduct of the engine, its exhaust.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
So how can i build my engine so its turbo ready without losing performance before i do the install? And are turbos dangerous to the engine or hard to manage?
So basically, you wanna kick people's butts when they ride up beside you on the highway. A respectable desire. You just gotta realize the prelude isn't much of a straight line kinda car so doing this would be a little more difficult.
My advice, save up like 7 or 8 k, go to town rebuilding and turboing all at once. If you turbo yeah you're not anywhere 280 but at least you'll stick to the ground still and give everyone a run for their money.
So basically, your stuff is realistic (except maybe 280), just save some green and do it all at once. Maybe when the motor blows and something has to be done (that's my plan!)
^ yeah
dont make that mistake that you just buy a part for a time to time
you save money if you buy all parts at once and put them together at once... in this way you might get better deals and discounts and you dont have to tune it all the time when youre installing new part
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car like that in daily driving......
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