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Old 09-14-2011, 07:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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H Series Camshafts

Is it possible to put H22 cams into a H23 motor/head/everything else? Ideas? Thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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First of all looking at your pic you may be in the wrong section altogether and second which H23 are you talking about? There are 2, 1 has VTEC the other does not.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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H23 non-vtec. what section should i be in?
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No and honestly if you are seeking to build any N/A engine for the prelude you might as well either swap for the VTEC head or the entire H22a engine altogether. Your engine may have 0.1L extra displacement but all the power is in the cylinder head and the H22 is far superior.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey guys quick question, what is your opinion on running type s valve springs and retainers with crower stage 2 camshafts? This will be in my h22a4
Thanks for the advice.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey guys quick question, what is your opinion on running type s valve springs and retainers with crower stage 2 camshafts? This will be in my h22a4
Thanks for the advice.
isnt crower/skunk2 valve springs and retainers are cheaper?
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The type S aren't going to be any different really in terms of strength than any other H22a part, the cams are hardly any bigger. Get the crower parts to go with the cams.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The type S aren't going to be any different really in terms of strength than any other H22a part, the cams are hardly any bigger. Get the crower parts to go with the cams.
Thanks for the advice man, much appreciated, just to check though, I did call Crower, and they in fact said that Type S springs and retainers are fine to raise the rev limit and handle the cams, due to the fact that the Type S cams are more aggressive than the BC SII's are. So I went with the Type S S/R and BC cams. Also, I am not planning on revving above 8.2k so I should be ok.

One last question. Can I just stay with stock cam gears or should I get some todas or Aem? I know I CAN stay with stock, but should ?
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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isnt crower/skunk2 valve springs and retainers are cheaper?
Not that I have seen, they pretty much are all the same price. I got a great deal on my Type S valve springs though.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The type S aren't going to be any different really in terms of strength than any other H22a part, the cams are hardly any bigger. Get the crower parts to go with the cams.
00-01 Preludes, Type S, SiR and Accord R have slight stiffer valve springs because of slight more aggressive cams

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One last question. Can I just stay with stock cam gears or should I get some todas or Aem? I know I CAN stay with stock, but should ?
well you can stay with stock but whats the point when then you cant get all gains out from your cams?

get some adjustables (atleast 5 bolt ones)
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wait, Type S are higher lift than Crower 2's? I'd ditch Crower cams and go with Skunk2 Pro1's, tuner springs, retainers and Skunk2's flat faced valves and you'd get way better results even with a stock bottom end.

Skunk2 PRO1 H22 DYNO INSIDE! - Honda-Tech

The proof is in the pudding.

Like said also get some gears, name brand ones and after tuning is done put some red locktite on the adjustment bolts because they can come loose.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Wait, Type S are higher lift than Crower 2's? I'd ditch Crower cams and go with Skunk2 Pro1's, tuner springs, retainers and Skunk2's flat faced valves and you'd get way better results even with a stock bottom end.

Skunk2 PRO1 H22 DYNO INSIDE! - Honda-Tech

The proof is in the pudding.

Like said also get some gears, name brand ones and after tuning is done put some red locktite on the adjustment bolts because they can come loose.

Thank you man, I really appreciate the advice- So i know this is a swear word, but EBAY cam gears should be straight if I put some locktite (I know the teeth on the gears arent ground out as well and eat the timing belt) or no? Also, I honestly trust an OEM part more than the skunk/crower/anythingelse, so Ima stay with my type s springs and just crower IIs and get a tune and not rev like a dumbass.

Another question for pistions, what do you guys suggest? I know they are a piece of cake to instal (rings are a B*tch i know) 11:1? Mahle? (spelling?) what's a good piston?
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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^ Skunk2 Pro valvetrain is claimed to be the best what there is...

and piston choices, atleast: Type S, Mahle, CP, Wiseco
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Don't buy ebay parts, especially if it has anything to do with timing, that belt breaks and there goes your head, that's a promise. Type S and Mahle are the only pistons that will work with the stock sleeves, anything else you have to sleeve the block. At least with FRM though you don't always have to hone before changing pistons as long as the sleeves are in good shape. Check the service manual.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^ Skunk2 Pro valvetrain is claimed to be the best what there is...

Skunk 2 is far from the best there is for valvetrains.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Don't buy ebay parts, especially if it has anything to do with timing, that belt breaks and there goes your head, that's a promise. Type S and Mahle are the only pistons that will work with the stock sleeves, anything else you have to sleeve the block. At least with FRM though you don't always have to hone before changing pistons as long as the sleeves are in good shape. Check the service manual.
Thanks for the info man so I shouldn't click this buy it now button then? I'm playin' lol.

Ok forreal though, if I do as I stated above, type s vt with crower IIs, do I need to get adjustable gears or can I get a decent tune/power out of stock cam gears? I'm not being cheap, I just don't want extra bullSht in my motor. And for pistons, we are 87mm stock correct? I found some 11:1 Mahle pistons and eagle rods for like 650 shipped man that is not bad. If I were to get these pistons are they essentially plug and play? Will my pistons be hitting my valves with the increased lift from the crowers?

SO
1. can I skip cam gears and still get decent power?
2. What is the bore of the pistons for our motors? (I have researched but found multiple answers)
3.Pistons plug and play? will the 11:1's be booty pounding my valves?

Thanks for the help guys
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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do I need to get adjustable gears or can I get a decent tune/power out of stock cam gears? I'm not being cheap, I just don't want extra bullSht in my motor.
aftermarket adjustable cam gears arent BS, brand name ones weight less (=engine might rev better) and you get all the power out.
I recommend that you just buy em. specially when youre upgrading pistons there too!

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2. What is the bore of the pistons for our motors? (I have researched but found multiple answers)
87.0mm
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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aftermarket adjustable cam gears arent BS, brand name ones weight less (=engine might rev better) and you get all the power out.
I recommend that you just buy em. specially when youre upgrading pistons there too!



87.0mm
Thank you so much TypeT you're the best. All of you are thanks guys.
My plan is now, the type S springs/retaniers with crower IIs or type r cams IF I can find some, AEM or toda gears and type S pistons - Those are 87 mm bore and will work with FRM correct? Will I need rods? or are the a4 rods ok? they are 11:1 correct?

Tell me about your guys' mods I wanna know what you guys are up to also.
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Use the H22a4 rods. I'd still get the Skunk2 Pro1 cams with flat faced valves, you'd make way more power.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:37 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Use the H22a4 rods. I'd still get the Skunk2 Pro1 cams with flat faced valves, you'd make way more power.
+1

I have those Skunk Pro1's

You should also think about titanium retainers, could prevent valvetrain wear better than those type S versions
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