fuel rail and other stuff gaskets - Honda Prelude Forum

pIERCE · 10-07-2008, 11:29 PM

I plan on doing my EGR port precedure finally in the next day or so, but I have looked at the engine numerous times, and have also been told numerous times that taking the fuel rail off and a couple of other things makes getting to the plugs a million times easier.

My question is, are there any parts thet have mandatory seal/gasket replacement upon removal(like the egr valve)? I don't want to dissasemble my fuel rail, ect. and then find out I can't reassemble it until I get new gaskets; my lude is my only form of transport and I live about 20 miles out of town/closest to any parts stores, so once I take the parts of, I'm stuck with that decision.

Thank you very much

P.S. ...And yes, I did search this already.

rpwolf · 10-08-2008, 11:03 AM

there are several egr related post that have been up lately and i could of sworn they had parts list, atleast a few did.
def need an egr valve gasket. I was able to reuse my other gaskets but decided just to buy new ones since they only cost a buck a few bucks. it all depends on you cars wear.

just be easy and youll be fine.

RedPreludeOO · 10-08-2008, 01:39 PM

Are you cleaning the EGR port? You dont HAVE to take off the fuel rail.. I did mine without removing it. All you have to do is to disconnect a hose to the fuel rail and you should have enough space. The only gasket you should be replacing is the EGR valve gasket.

boymeetsfence · 10-08-2008, 01:43 PM

The parts that you should remove to make getting at the plugs easier is your IACV and your FPR. That's all I took off and it made it a lot easier to get at the 4 main plugs

pIERCE · 10-08-2008, 03:43 PM

I took the fuel rail off only, and I am now in the process of trying to get the drivers-most side plug out, but it won't come out. How hard is it supposed to be to get the plugs out? I'm using a somewhat crappy home-made slide hammer, but I have been trying as hard as I can for hours to get the plug to budge, I hammered the plug back in a little to "loosen" it up, and then tried to pull it out, and still got no movement.

What kind of slide hammers did you guys use and where did ya get them, I've read/heard that the ones from harbor-freight ar the corrects size, and I'm not paying 150 bucks for hondas version. It is too late to order anything online...I need one today!

Is it supposed to be this troublesome of a procedure? I have been owning/workin on this car for a year now, and still see 2-3 month old newbs coming onto this site sayin that they got it done in under 2 hours-its been all day for me, an I've gotten nowhere, what am I doin wrong here people???

Please any suggestions would help, thanks

boymeetsfence · 10-08-2008, 03:54 PM

Are you drilling a 1/16" hole all the way through the plug then using a self tapping screw? It may be that your homemade slide hammer isn't functioning quite right. I used the one from harbor freight and it worked excellent. I used a 1/16" inch drill bit for a pilot hole, then used a 2" long drywall screw and got it snugly into the hole, place the slide hammer around the head, 3 or 4 taps and the plug pops right out

pIERCE · 10-08-2008, 04:34 PM

I drilled the hole with a "24" bit, then tapped the hole with a "25" tap.

My slide hammer is just a really long (weak;aluminum I think) completely threaded rod, and then screw the end of the rod into the plug. I have a heavy brass piece of pipe as the hammer, and I slide it and hit a washer-type-thing on the helt onto the end of the rod. Thats how a slide hammer works right?

I can't believe you got it off that quick with so little effort(I assume). I just a few minutes ago went to look at it and gave it the most effort do far:30 seconds of slamming the slide hamer as hard and quick as possible, and nothin, at all.

I'm beginning to be affraid that if the plug doesn't come out any time soon, the threads ar going to strip, because I can tell the rod is not held as tightly as when I first tried it earlier.

Did you get the smallest they had there? Is there a part number?

Thank you very much.

boymeetsfence · 10-08-2008, 06:02 PM

It's pretty much the only one they carry. Everyone talks about going the drill, tap, then screw the rod in the end, but I find that it's much easier going the route of a self-tapping screw and the hammer from harbor freight

rpwolf · 10-08-2008, 07:30 PM

if your still having issues with space constraints, just remove the fuel rail its only 3 bolts and 4 clips per injector. thats it.

pIERCE · 10-08-2008, 10:50 PM

I already removed the fuel rail. Where could I get the fuel rail bolt bosses if I need new ones, just curious.

I might get it in the next couple of days. I saw 2 of them there today, but didn't buy it. How did you connect the slide hammer to the plug though? It doesn't look compadible at all.

Thank you

boymeetsfence · 10-08-2008, 10:59 PM

There is a little "hook" looking piece that just hooks right around the head of the screw. If you don't know what I mean I can try and take a pic of it

pIERCE · 10-09-2008, 09:18 AM

If that is too much trouble, then no for the pic, but if it's not that hard, that would be great. Could you include a pic of the slide-hammer itself too by chance? If not, thats ok too, thanks either way.

I'm gonna try the home-made one a couple more times, and if it doesn't work, than I'm goin strait to harbor this moring and buy it so I can finish this deal.

pIERCE · 10-09-2008, 09:45 AM

I found a pics of THE slide hammer. ..You could still include those pics if you care.