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Old 02-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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front end shake

Im new to the site and i have searched but no luck. I have a 98 prelude wih a jdm h22a swap. I have a problem where taking-off in 1st unless the rpms are up around 2k the whole front end will shutter/shake. Also while accelerating or well when u put your foot back onto the gas(say after coasting) theres a clunk, and then again when you let off. Mods if it matters are: aem cai, custom header, custom catback, resonated test pipe, act stage 3 clutch and 10lb fadanza flywheel, adjustable coilovers, konig illusions Hancook ventus v4(great 4 seasons) and carbon fiber hood, which shakes like a ***** when having the problem. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What is this custom header?

Sounds like maybe a bad axle.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Axles have about 10k on them now. Custom header designed and flowtested in RI at a hotrod shop.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine shakes the same way too if I start at low rpm. I have a torn top motor mount I think that's the problem. Maybe the front one is bad too I haven't checked but I got the top one in the mail so I'll update when I replace it
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My vote is for a bad motor mount.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Axles have about 10k on them now.
Do you feel the shake in the steering wheel? Does it produce a sound beyond a typical thud?

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Custom header designed and flowtested in RI at a hotrod shop.
Photographs are now required.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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No thuds, just clattering, shuttering,squeaking sounds. Hard to explain. Im told it looks like the front end is about to fall apart. Not sure if you feel it in the wheel its more than distracting.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The header doesnt look special. Just clean welds, no burs. I can get a pic of the outside. But the inside was clean. The guy went with stock design but oversized ports to like 1 5/8ths or something like that and then 2 1/4 collector to go with the custom 2 1/4 exhaust. Power actually went down with 2.5, well low torque did hp went up but overall this design wotked best for torque to hp.

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Old 02-18-2013, 10:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you can't feel it in the wheel or the chassis, I'm going to agree with a few of the previous suggestions of a engine mount (or 2 - Rear and/or Front)
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If it's more of a vibrating type of shake (higher frequency and lower force), I would also check the header for clearance.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The hood shakes too. its not the front, its unneeded, upper is solid and rear is solid. Maybe its the clutch..too forceful..?
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Maybe an Engine Torque Damper would help a bit? Anyone have any experience with them? Pros cons instal ussues etc. All mounts are now new and it still has the issue.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have a problem where taking-off in 1st unless the rpms are up around 2k the whole front end will shutter/shake.
ta'daa:

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act stage 3 clutch and 10lb fadanza flywheel
thats just cause of your crap clutch and flywheel combo
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I could definitely be wrong, but from what I've heard on several forums is that stage 2 and stage 3 clutches are known for not-so-smooth takeoffs as far as slipping goes. They just want to grab and go, hence the jerking.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yea thats what my brother told me. he did a b18c build that made 250whp with just boltons, spoon ecu and stock clutch. The clutch pedal setup is custom though and the pedal can literally only go up and down maybe 2". My clutch grabs way high, i was told that just happens to be where this clutch likes it
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Replaced my top motor mount and the shaking has drastically reduced
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Why do people put such an aggressive clutch on non-boosted applications?

The stock clutch should be good for just about anything you can throw at it NA.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Why do people put such an aggressive clutch on non-boosted applications?

The stock clutch should be good for just about anything you can throw at it NA.
ya, stage1 at the MAX!
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Why do people put such an aggressive clutch on non-boosted applications?
because they dont know what theyre doing?
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:17 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Id rather replace it when its out than go boost and have to do another 6 hour clutch job. The flywheel really helps with shifting and revving. Im use to rwd muscle, u throw a pucked clutch in and the only drawback is chirping tires. It is nice clutch, just rev matching (acting like a torque converter)isnt feasable for inner city driving. An 1800 rpm launch and theres no shake at all. Out here in the sticks is great. Its great for getting out of snow ditches too. The extreme positive engagement makes both wheels spin as if its lsd. Also opens options to more hp and less redoing work. How many people can say there na lude does 13.2 1/4m and 5.1 0-60 ? With boltons and tune
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