The post is quite a good guide generally.
Might I note that an Alignment is REQUIRED to determine which kits to use. My car is a 99 Base and has both a 3571 and a 3773 kit on the rear-because each side is in fact different by just enough. you DO want some negative camber both front and rear. The amount should be fairly small for a daily driver-on track is a different matter. Up front the best of the bunch is in fact the 67135 (I'm biased) They work with my Neuspeed Sport springs and a drop of 1.7" in Front and 1.5" Rear (for the Ingalls parts back there).
Another thing-keep in mind that the SPC 67135 offer a benefit in that you can make a slight correction to Caster-tell the tech to check it and rotoate the plates to set caster as part of the alignment. The total Caster will be greater than stock-but it works very well.
As to clunking of parts-the rear is a non issue with most kits (Ingalls and SPC are the primary makers, while Progress and Eibach repackage some of the parts mentioned along with their own designs. The front end has been a problem for several generations of Honda cars. Even the CRX has an issue with clearance. Be very careful what you do because the control arm location is changed with the anchor bolt kits-in an outward direction. The balljoint kits can contact the tower as the arm deflects upward. My car does have dimples from this-no harm actually.
Thanks again for posting the list. Remember that for each 1" of drop there is ~0.84 degrees of change to the negative side. You MUST get an alignment to confirm how much correction you need.
__________________
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'99 Prelude SS - A sweet song in motion SOLD
'89 CRX Si= SCCA/NASA/PDA ITA #99
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab (4.7L)-gonna tow
Thanks to KONI, KIRK Racing, Longacre, UPRacing, Summit, Racing Electronics and my crew.
wow this thread came back from the thread. yeah guys jc836 is the guy when it comes to suspension/alignment. I remember talking to him about some problems a LONG time ago.
Originally posted by jc836 The post is quite a good guide generally.
Might I note that an Alignment is REQUIRED to determine which kits to use. My car is a 99 Base and has both a 3571 and a 3773 kit on the rear-because each side is in fact different by just enough. you DO want some negative camber both front and rear. The amount should be fairly small for a daily driver-on track is a different matter. Up front the best of the bunch is in fact the 67135 (I'm biased) They work with my Neuspeed Sport springs and a drop of 1.7" in Front and 1.5" Rear (for the Ingalls parts back there).
Another thing-keep in mind that the SPC 67135 offer a benefit in that you can make a slight correction to Caster-tell the tech to check it and rotoate the plates to set caster as part of the alignment. The total Caster will be greater than stock-but it works very well.
As to clunking of parts-the rear is a non issue with most kits (Ingalls and SPC are the primary makers, while Progress and Eibach repackage some of the parts mentioned along with their own designs. The front end has been a problem for several generations of Honda cars. Even the CRX has an issue with clearance. Be very careful what you do because the control arm location is changed with the anchor bolt kits-in an outward direction. The balljoint kits can contact the tower as the arm deflects upward. My car does have dimples from this-no harm actually.
Thanks again for posting the list. Remember that for each 1" of drop there is ~0.84 degrees of change to the negative side. You MUST get an alignment to confirm how much correction you need.
so eibachs camber kit design is better or worse then spc?
Is it possible to have a 1.75 + drop (like neuspeed or H&R sport) without having clearance issues? I'm getting rid of my tein stech's to get something stiffer and lower and I need to know if this is possible without issues.
Thanks
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Originally posted by Systemix Is it possible to have a 1.75 + drop (like neuspeed or H&R sport) without having clearance issues? I'm getting rid of my tein stech's to get something stiffer and lower and I need to know if this is possible without issues.
Thanks
Well, all I can say is don't go into bumps too fast and you'll be alright.
are those prices on groupbuycenter for each camber or do they come as a pair. 67350 SPC Front Extreme Adjustable Balljoint $169. I'm guessing thats just one? not both of the front?
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H to the IzzO N to the D A fa shizzel my nizzel we killin V8s
Ingalls 3558 1.75-4.25 degrees
Does this mean that the kit can adjust camber between a positive camber of 1.75 and a negative camber of 4.25.
Ingalls 3556 -1 to 3 degrees (don't use if you're past 1.25")
This would mean that the kit can adjust camber to -1 degrees all the way to 3 degrees. So if you wanted 1.5 negative camber this kit wouldn't work.
Basicly i'm asking if these numbers are absolute or relative. I.E. will the 3556 kit give you 3 degrees of positive camber no matter what your drop. or will it simply give you 4 degrees of positive camber adjustment.
Thanks and sorry for the confusion,
-Greg P
So I Am Going to buy a Camber kit for my 1997 prelude SH, Its a SPC Camber Kit Parts # 67330 and 67165, Will they fit on my prelude, owner said they were for his 2000 prelude base, will it fit ever though, because prelude are all almost the same, so im guessing it shouldnt be a problem please help!!!!
So I Am Going to buy a Camber kit for my 1997 prelude SH, Its a SPC Camber Kit Parts # 67330 and 67165, Will they fit on my prelude, owner said they were for his 2000 prelude base, will it fit ever though, because prelude are all almost the same, so im guessing it shouldnt be a problem please help
Are there newer kits since 2002? Like UCA or LCA camber kits? I have read that the adjustable balljoint kits can put a dimple and eventually a hole in our shock towers!
__________________
WTB: PSPEC short shifter
SH rear interior deck
OBD2->OBD1 jumper
1982 Mercedes Benz - 240D, AT - SOLD
1997 Prelude - H22A4, AT - SOLD
2000 S10 - 4.3L, AT, 2wd - SOLD
2001 Prelude - H22A4, AT
1992 SVX - EG33, AT, AWD
If you think you need a camber kit, your car is simply too low. You don't actually need one.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
If you think you need a camber kit, your car is simply too low. You don't actually need one.
You sound like a knowledgeable guy. Which is why I have a couple of questions for you lol. I recently overhauled my suspension (5th gen base) with d2 coil overs, and Progress rear Sway bar and endlinks. If I remember correctly, the stock "finger gap" was 2-3. I eyeballed it when putting the coilovers on, and i now have 1-1.5 finger gap in the front, 2 in the back. Now to my questions, Stupid as it may be.. any estimate on how low this actually has been lowered? I sit about 7" from ground to bottom of my frame (not side skirts) front and rear. Next question is on the topic of the sway bar. I installed it yesterday, however i did NOT have a way of being at ride height. I adjusted the endlinks to match the stock length, went with the middle hole on the sway bar, and got to the slots on the actual mounts. given my ride height, should the bar be further up (bolt at bottom of slot) or further down (bolt at top of slot). Not sure if you've dealt with the sway bar but I figured I would ask someone who has done work to their own car, rather than a shop I appreciate any and all help.
Stock gap was about 3" on my car. I don't measure anything in fingers as everyone's varies. And I have no experience with sway bars, so I can't help there.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Stock gap was about 3" on my car. I don't measure anything in fingers as everyone's varies. And I have no experience with sway bars, so I can't help there.
Haha you make a good point sir. I'll just go off your 3" then and take measurements later. Thanks
Are there newer kits since 2002? Like UCA or LCA camber kits? I have read that the adjustable balljoint kits can put a dimple and eventually a hole in our shock towers!
bump
__________________
WTB: PSPEC short shifter
SH rear interior deck
OBD2->OBD1 jumper
1982 Mercedes Benz - 240D, AT - SOLD
1997 Prelude - H22A4, AT - SOLD
2000 S10 - 4.3L, AT, 2wd - SOLD
2001 Prelude - H22A4, AT
1992 SVX - EG33, AT, AWD
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