I was trying to change my rear brake pads and now I can't get the caliper piston pushed in enough to put the new pads in, or get the caliper back on the rotor. Anyone else had this problem? Do I need new calipers? I didn't push the brake pedal while they were off, I think they were already pushed out far because I had to pry the calipers off the rotors bc they were on there so tight. Lemme know what you guys think.
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Bottles are for babies, real men get BLOWN.
'97 SH, JRSC, DC 4-2-1 headers, Greddy EVO, AEM CAI, Autometer Boost and A/F Gauges, CM flywheel, and stage III clutch.
should be ok
mine were out really far and stuck on...i got it out with some wiggling and alil rubber mallet....u need to screw it in...screwing it in takes forever though so be patient....
__________________
Bottles are for babies, real men get BLOWN.
'97 SH, JRSC, DC 4-2-1 headers, Greddy EVO, AEM CAI, Autometer Boost and A/F Gauges, CM flywheel, and stage III clutch.
cool, just wanted to clarify, I looked in the helms and did'nt see anything about that, guess I'd better look again. Thanks for the info.
__________________
Bottles are for babies, real men get BLOWN.
'97 SH, JRSC, DC 4-2-1 headers, Greddy EVO, AEM CAI, Autometer Boost and A/F Gauges, CM flywheel, and stage III clutch.
You can get a cheap little "caliper tool" at Autozone or whatever that makes it pretty easy to rotate those rear pistons back in - it looks like a cube with bumps, it's like $8.
After reinstalling one caliper without it, I drove to Autozone & bought the silly tool to do the other.
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we're straight I got that **** back together, turned easier than I thought it would that's for sure. The turning detail is in the helms but it's kind of in the fine print, not very obvious if you know what I mean. Thanks to all, the brakes work like a champ now.
__________________
Bottles are for babies, real men get BLOWN.
'97 SH, JRSC, DC 4-2-1 headers, Greddy EVO, AEM CAI, Autometer Boost and A/F Gauges, CM flywheel, and stage III clutch.
Not for the rear, that's the problem. You need a big C clamp for the front or a piston compressor. For the rear, you have to turn the piston as you push it in. You need the little cube with bumps on it or you need a really really wide screwdriver or sturdy paintscraper.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
__________________
Bottles are for babies, real men get BLOWN.
'97 SH, JRSC, DC 4-2-1 headers, Greddy EVO, AEM CAI, Autometer Boost and A/F Gauges, CM flywheel, and stage III clutch.
You can get a cheap little "caliper tool" at Autozone or whatever that makes it pretty easy to rotate those rear pistons back in - it looks like a cube with bumps, it's like $8.
After reinstalling one caliper without it, I drove to Autozone & bought the silly tool to do the other.
__________________ ASE Re-Certified Technician
Suspension and Steering (A4)
Brakes (A5)
Heating and Air Conditioning (A7)
Exhaust System Specialist (X1)
Automobile Parts Specialist (P2)
Automobile Service Consultant (C1)
It's a waste of $10 unless you don't have any good tools. A crowbar or large flathead screwdriver will do the trick.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
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