I've owned the car 7+ years and I got my first CEL today. It's a 67 which is pretty harmless, but still, it bugs me.
I have had a Random Cat installed on the car for over a year with no CEL. A few weeks ago I replaced both my 02 sensors with the Walker universal unit.
If one of the wires had come loose on the secondary sensor, wouldn't I get a code 63 or 65? A code 67 only means that the cat is not functioning properly, right?
My only guess is that the old O2 sensor (which had 114k miles on it) didn't see a problem with the cat whereas the new o2 sensor works a little better and thinks the Random Cat is malfunctioning.
Either way I will reset the ECU and run some Seafoam through the engine to see if I can clean it out.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
yea I got a CEL 65 last week
I didnt get under the car to really inspect it but I ordered a new o2 sensor anyway cuz with my shop...anything is possible with them
it would be funny though if all my problem was the connector being loose
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-Anthony- PSN/Xbox Live GT: Evoking1230
2005 EVO VIII-SOLD/R.I.P.
2000 Honda Prelude SH - Gone But Not Forgotten
From what I am reading code 63 is for slow response in the sensor and 65 is for a circuit malfunction. If there was anything wrong with the sensor I would expect one of those.
Oh well, no matter. I'll reset the ECU and see what happens...
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
I had this problem after getting my DC header installed by a local shop. They had not plugged the wires to one of the O2 sensors all the way in, so the connector locked. it was just enough that it wasn't making perfect contact, and threw a CEL, which killed my ATTS.
AFAIK there are no aftermarket catalytic converters that work as well as an OEM catalyst. You could try splicing a 10 ohm resistor into the white wire coming of the secondary o2, it's supposed to trick the ecu.
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Originally posted by NotoriouSH AFAIK there are no aftermarket catalytic converters that work as well as an OEM catalyst. You could try splicing a 10 ohm resistor into the white wire coming of the secondary o2, it's supposed to trick the ecu.
i just got a random tech cat installed last week and dyno tuned my vafcii, not as good as i would have liked since i was short on time. i have a 98 SS w/AEM CAI and pulleys, RT cat, custom 2.5" exhaust and vafcii. i was running VERY lean for some reason and my engine light was on for a while but i never got it checked out. so anyways when i richened up the fuel mixture a lil bit i gained a few ponys and now the engine light is no longer on. i will post results when i fine tune the vafc later this week.
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