DIY Tow Hitch Install - Honda Prelude Forum

Kronn 98SH · 04-09-2010, 12:14 PM

That's right. I'm currently in the process of building my own tow hitch. Before anyone says anything stupid like "it's not a truck" or "just go get a truck", I'm only talking about towing a 4ft x 8ft single-axle mini-trailer weighing roughly 500lbs total (trailer included). It's so I can haul my dirtbike to and fro without using the Silverado 2500 (¾ ton truck only getting 11mpg).

Here's a basic photo of the trailer:

If anyone has anything useful to contribute like photos of other setups, please do.

Kronn 98SH · 04-09-2010, 01:41 PM

So far:

Kronn 98SH · 04-09-2010, 02:25 PM

More:

Play close attention to the notch shown here in the last photo. This is required in order to clear the lip in the rear bumper support piece.

Kon · 04-09-2010, 02:58 PM

looks nice and cool idea, but your car is dropped already 1.5 inches will it not rub the back. oh yes also your weld machine is cold turn up the heat it will look better..

Kronn 98SH · 04-09-2010, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kon

looks nice and cool idea, but your car is dropped already 1.5 inches will it not rub the back. oh yes also your weld machine is cold turn up the heat it will look better..

No chance of rubbing anything.

And, that's just my brother's crappy welding skills. It's strong but ugly.

Kon · 04-09-2010, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kronn 98SH

No chance of rubbing anything.

And, that's just my brother's crappy welding skills. It's strong but ugly.

well thats the most important thing not rubbing.

Kronn 98SH · 04-09-2010, 03:33 PM

FYI, it's also a 90A Flux Core MIG welder.

Kronn 98SH · 04-14-2010, 09:14 PM

So it's finished. I know my car is filthy, but here ya go:

^^^ Those are just temporary bolts to hold it in place for the test-fitting.

^^^ It sits snug against the tow hook, but for added support I added the U-bolt. It's not going anywhere.

^^^ Here's how it looks front the rear.

^^^ Here's how it looks from the side.

For mounting to the bumper support, I used:

2 - 7/16" x 1" Hex head stainless steel bolts - 39¢ each
4 - 7/16" stainless steel flat washers - 19¢ each
2 - 7/16" (ID) stainless steel nuts - 25¢ each

For mounting to the tow hook, I used:

1 - Stainless steel U-bolt of unknown size and unknown cost (I already had it)
1 - Stainless steel flat side-by-side washer of unknown size and unknown cost (I already had it)
2 - Stainless steel nuts of unknown size and unknown cost (I already had them)

Total cost of project:

Standard Class III Tow Hitch Receiver (2") - $13
Scrap Steel for welding - $0
Mounting Hardware - $2.20 after tax
Spray paint (two coats) - $0
Labor - $0
TOTAL - $15.20

The ball and ball mount will be purchased later, but here they are:

^^^ Tow Ball Mount with 4" Lift/Drop - $21.99 + tax

^^^ 1⅞" Chrome-plated Steel Ball with ¾" Shank - $9.99 + tax

leftbrain99 · 04-14-2010, 09:25 PM

Nice work, and it looks good. I purchased one and installed it myself, it doesn't protrude quite as far as yours, but overall it looks very similar. I did this 10 years ago, so I'm not really sure what product I bought, but yours was probably a lot cheaper. I did have to trim something for it to clear a bumper support.

I pull the 4'x4' version of that same trailer for autocross and track events. It holds my large toolbox and a row of wheels/tires

indylude18 · 04-14-2010, 10:00 PM

Potential problems I can see here:

1) That hitch is going to bottom out like a SOB if you are driving on uneven ground. Avoid dips in the road like the plague or you will be running after your trailer on foot when the hitch gets ripped off the car, or it may tear a hole in the bottom of the car when it bottoms out. Don't tell me it won't bottom out either, I know better than that. I've smacked the drop hitch on trucks that ride much higher than a prelude on the ground while going over a dip. On a lowered car it's going to happen, it just a matter of when.
2) I'm not sure exactly how you attached the hitch to the car, but there really isn't much back there on that part of the car that has enough structural rigidity to support much weight aside from the tow hook. You might have some issues with bending and flexing.
3) You didn't mention running any wires. At the very least, you need electrical hookups for brake lights and turn signals to make it legal(I assume the law is the same in Oklahoma as it is here). Yes, that will be a PITA to do.
4) Better yet, you need to run wires for electric trailer brakes if you plan to drive it very far, or at highway speed. Without them, slowing down while going downhill or heavy braking at speed will cause you to fishtail or jack knife.
5) FWD and trailers are a terrible combination. By putting weight out behind the back axle, you are taking it off the front of the car. This will cost you traction, and possibly make the car too unstable to drive. With just 500 pounds you might be ok, but be careful. As we all know, if you lose traction on the front wheels of a FWD car, you are essentially up sh!t creek because you no longer have hardly any control of the car.

Oh, and a prelude is not a truck.

leftbrain99 · 04-14-2010, 10:43 PM

My Prelude is pretty low on Tein Type HAs. I have not once hit the hitch on pavement. My Mugen resonator and A-pipe have taken hits, but never the hitch. My tailpipe will hit before the hitch.

Mine mounts just like the one made in this thread. It's bolted directly into the rear bumper, then clamped to the tow hook. Mine sits against the bottom of the tow hook. It might as well be part of the car frame. Under really heavy loads I could see an issue, but not the kind of loads he's talking about.

indylude18 · 04-14-2010, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftbrain99

My Prelude is pretty low on Tein Type HAs. I have not once hit the hitch on pavement. My Mugen resonator and A-pipe have taken hits, but never the hitch. My tailpipe will hit before the hitch.

Did you mount your hitch in closer to the bumper? The one Kronn has pictured is going to stick out the back of the car an inch or two with the drop/lift hitch in it. I can't see that rig taking a steep incline well, like going over raised railroad tracks or at the bottom of steep hills or driveways. Completely avoiding those two things around here would be difficult.

Kronn 98SH · 04-15-2010, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

Potential problems I can see here:

1) That hitch is going to bottom out like a SOB if you are driving on uneven ground. Avoid dips in the road like the plague or you will be running after your trailer on foot when the hitch gets ripped off the car, or it may tear a hole in the bottom of the car when it bottoms out. Don't tell me it won't bottom out either, I know better than that. I've smacked the drop hitch on trucks that ride much higher than a prelude on the ground while going over a dip. On a lowered car it's going to happen, it just a matter of when.

My muffler hangs lower than the tow hitch. I've never scraped, but I do avoid uphills and such. This is only for driving to and from the lake, which is all highway. I have no concern here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

2) I'm not sure exactly how you attached the hitch to the car, but there really isn't much back there on that part of the car that has enough structural rigidity to support much weight aside from the tow hook. You might have some issues with bending and flexing.

It attaches where the pictures show that it attaches, which is just like any other aftermarket tow hitch. Therefore, it'll be fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

3) You didn't mention running any wires. At the very least, you need electrical hookups for brake lights and turn signals to make it legal (I assume the law is the same in Oklahoma as it is here). Yes, that will be a PITA to do.
4) Better yet, you need to run wires for electric trailer brakes if you plan to drive it very far, or at highway speed. Without them, slowing down while going downhill or heavy braking at speed will cause you to fishtail or jack knife.

I haven't completed this portion yet. I don't consider wiring part of the fabrication process, but it will most definitely be done. I've already looked it up and the Prelude comes with a trailer connector. It's a 6-pin connector in the trunk lining next to the driver's side taillight. I'm not sure if I want to buy the appropriate male/female connector from Honda or just splice into the existing wiring. I think I'll go with the splicing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

5) FWD and trailers are a terrible combination. By putting weight out behind the back axle, you are taking it off the front of the car. This will cost you traction, and possibly make the car too unstable to drive. With just 500 pounds you might be ok, but be careful. As we all know, if you lose traction on the front wheels of a FWD car, you are essentially up sh!t creek because you no longer have hardly any control of the car.

Because of the design of the trailer and the positioning of the gear, there is next to no tongue weight. Therefore, it should not pull down on the rear of the vehicle much, if at all. So I don't see this being a real problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

Oh, and a prelude is not a truck.

Dick :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftbrain99

My Prelude is pretty low on Tein Type HAs. I have not once hit the hitch on pavement. My Mugen resonator and A-pipe have taken hits, but never the hitch. My tailpipe will hit before the hitch.

Mine mounts just like the one made in this thread. It's bolted directly into the rear bumper, then clamped to the tow hook. Mine sits against the bottom of the tow hook. It might as well be part of the car frame. Under really heavy loads I could see an issue, but not the kind of loads he's talking about.

Yeah, what he said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

Did you mount your hitch in closer to the bumper? The one Kronn has pictured is going to stick out the back of the car an inch or two with the drop/lift hitch in it. I can't see that rig taking a steep incline well, like going over raised railroad tracks or at the bottom of steep hills or driveways. Completely avoiding those two things around here would be difficult.

It'll be fine. I'll give it several test runs before I ever try anything too dangerous. But if nothing else, I can always raise the rear of the car nearly 4 inches. Ground Control FTW.