Anyone have any experience with these problems? I'm getting worse than average mileage, usually in the winter it drops to low 20's but now I'm estimating around 15 mpg (almost all town driving but that's typical for me). Besides that, I've noticed a lot more vibration at idle. My untuned Field VTEC controller says I idle at 1000 rpms cold and 600-700 fully warmed up. This seems normal, but the vibration can be felt through the seat and steering wheel. Besides those two things, my bumper turns black with all the exhaust buildup. Why would my car be running this rich? I don't have any cels and the car runs good out on the highway and has plenty of power, but are there some areas I should look into to determine why these things are happening? I never had any problems when the car was newer (around 80k miles) but now that I'm past 100k it seems to be running a little rough/dirty.
at idle does the car rev meter go up and down? (along with the engine humming up and down) Thats what happens to mine...=/
yes this is what my car does.
its pretty bad sometimes. when I give it a rev(from a stop) and let go of the gas, idle drops and engine almost stalls, then revs itself back up...
I am going to change the plugs soon to see if that'll make any difference.
I checked coolant for any air in it... and hopefully if plugs doesn't make any difference, its the CEL light i got(failing o2 sensor) which is the problem..
These are all symptomatic of a motor with high miles and low maintenence.
Do plugs/cap/rotor if not done recently. Even for light street duty you can't trust the maintenence schedule in the book. Copper plugs and the cap/rotor should be replaced AT LEAST every 25-30k miles and platinum plugs need to be done every 60k. Change the air filter if not done recently, it should be changed at least every 30k miles. Once you run rich for a while you may need to clean the EGR valve or even the IACV.
The soot comes from running rich, generally VERY rich which should only occur during WOT/VTEC driving (untuned). If it were coming from part-throttle driving you definitely would have a CEL as the soot only occurs when running richer than 13:1 AFR.
yes this is what my car does.
its pretty bad sometimes. when I give it a rev(from a stop) and let go of the gas, idle drops and engine almost stalls, then revs itself back up...
I am going to change the plugs soon to see if that'll make any difference.
I checked coolant for any air in it... and hopefully if plugs doesn't make any difference, its the CEL light i got(failing o2 sensor) which is the problem..
somone suggested me I change the plugs even though how would that be a problem? Mine isn't as bad as urs but I can see the rpm go up in down (150-200rpms) go up and down up and down....
I got the car recently (just been over 3 weeks now), and I keep blaming everything on the cold weather...
Distributor cap and rotor. If you don't know, take it somewhere to have them changed. When the spark energy decreases (plugs/cap/rotor wear and the spark gap increases) you don't burn as much of the fuel, idle speed and power drops some, and you spit more fuel out of the exhaust.
I put 120k miles on my H22A4 and they were HARD. The only thing that appears to be the issue is that the rings were worn on #1 and #4.
I had a ton of soot, and the EGR was obviously clogged.
You should change out at least the following:
- Cap
- Rotor
- Wires
- Plugs
- FUEL FILTER
- Air Filter
- Check the EGR valve. (12mm bolts, pops right off.)
If the EGR does not move easily when you take your finger and push the valve in, then it's messed up. Cleaning it MIGHT fix this problem... but it also may not. (You may need to replace it.)
I'm guessing I might have an EGR problem since it's more pronounced in the winter time. What is the IACV?
Cap/plugs/rotor/wires have all been changed within 5k miles, regular oil changes with Mobil 1 synthetic, the Field unit was soldered in place over a year ago (no problems there) and I use a K&N filter which I clean about every 5k (works better slightly dirty).
At idle, the car still needs the proper mixture and the air deliverly with the throttle closed is control by that valve.
It's located in the center of the front of the IM. It's held on by three 12mm bolts, and has a coolant line running into it at the bottom.
You basically remove it and shoot a lot of carb cleaner in each side. Especially the screen side.
The EGR will probablly be alot worse... more than likely it'll be fully of caked on black soot. So you'll have to scrape some of it out and then use carb cleaner or parts wash to get it somewhat clean.
You cant miss the IACV. Its a rectangular device on the Front [toward the motor] of the Intake Manifold. Two obvious bolts hold it in place. Its the only thing of its kind in the area.
Courtesy of Majestic Honda.
The IACV is #16.
The image of the EGR isnt as helpful. However, take notice of the demensions of #2 as i believe its the only thing near the motor that has the Cylindrical shape.
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