so like the title says, im thinking of making my own custom exhaust.
heres what i was thinking
vibrant header (maybe from ***Rosko Racing***) > magna flow cat > resonator > obx twin loop muffler
i like the idea of 2.5 inch exhaust throughout, though i know im really not gonna make that much power off any of this. (any ideas if i would be able to feel a difference?) id like it to sound good and quiet until i punch it so maybe two resonators? i really like the look and sound of the obx and its got a 10 year warranty.
when i did my exhuast, i first calulated what size of piping im going to need for the purpose in mind. After that it is all personal choice on what parts you have. iMO vibrant sounds kinda tinny, i chose no cat, 2 3" id magnaflow exhaust resonators as well as an apexi muffler. Allt he piping inbewteen was custom angle cut and then tig welded together.
All in all i think the parts you mentioned would be good however, you might want to research the benefits of a quality header.
There are multiple companies who make headers and in different styles, before you rusdh to just buy one perhaps look into ones that actually make power gains with thier use rather than jsut a pretty thign to look at.
also, there is hroup buy on here for a Bisi header, i think they are still waiting for three or four more peoples however.
I looked into vibrant a good amount and it seemed that most people thought they were a pretty decent mugen knock off. I heard from one or two sources that they made some decent power over stock. But I will look into the bisi group buy. Thanks for your reply!
And to be clear, I wanted 2.5 inch because I really don't want it very loud unless I slam it. Its a daily but I want a fast nice sounding daily. This is the first step.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
"The Hytech Replica (PLM Tri-Y 4-2-1) header is seriously a pain.
Yes it is cheap but with that, it comes with a lot of custom fitting.
The ground clearance is also pretty bad if you are slammed so you have to be careful."
i dont know about the hytech rep but i know the kteller tri y required a small notch to be made in the front crossmember for clearance. although this crossmemberis being replaced with an esp bar, using the esp bar makes the kteller tri y clear without modification.
"The Hytech Replica (PLM Tri-Y 4-2-1) header is seriously a pain.
Yes it is cheap but with that, it comes with a lot of custom fitting.
The ground clearance is also pretty bad if you are slammed so you have to be careful."
Pure ignorance. FYI, if you're slammed, you obviously don't care about performance, so why get a performance header?
This isn't directed at you TypeT. They are both general statements.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
theres mixed results as to the difficulty of the install. if youre doing a custom exhaust there shouldnt be any issues. the problems people have had are in the thread and some of them have photos to support. and not everyone have had those problems.
From what I heard, it seems like if you install it right there shouldn't be any height issues if you've still got a two or three finger gap. Right? What I'm most concerned with is the crossmember notching. Being an engineer, I know that someone wouldn't have designed it as big as it is for nothing. I know it's probably not a huge deal but I'd rather not do it if at all possible. Anyone know if it's absolutely necessary?
Even though I own a PLM Tri-y I'd say go with the vibrant, better fitment and ground clearance, I'm not slammed and I still can scrape the flange on the collector, thinking about ditching it for another header. They'd probably make the ground clearance better if people actually started saying something but most probably just don't care enough.
If you're going to make a custom exhaust you should listen to bouckaroo, go all the way with it, no cat and 2.5" should be as small as you want, 3" is better in every way. Of course you'd have to convert to OBD1 and tune to avoid a CEL but if you're serious about modifying the car you'll probably end up doing that eventually anyway.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Or you could simply cut the flange off and weld straight pipe to it.
No one thought of that?
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Well I personally couldn't do that since my exhaust is all 1 piece and making the header a permanent part of it is pretty much out of the question but for someone else it may work out alright. PLM really needs to address the ground clearance, crossmember clearance I could care less about since most wanting a good header are more than likely running a traction bar.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
most wanting a good header are more than likely running a traction bar.
Unless they have an SH.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Yeah that really doesn't look bad. And I'm definitely gonna go for the hytech over vibrant. If people have got it to fit right, I can too. So now my question is, someone above said go for three inch. Can three inch be decently quiet? I definitely don't wanna be screaming down the road. And also since the header is 2.5 inches, isn't 2.5 gonna be the biggest that's gonna make a difference?
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