Its too late for that now.......I wanna make due with what i have....besides, i dont have enough cash to start that. I guess if i can find one cheap i might. But i wanna find a way to do it without stand alone.
PROBLEM!!! My Check Engine Light came on today. I don't know why but i guess the resistor didn't work or something... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Yeah Im mad.
Check the crimp connections are not loose. Soldering is more foolproof. Also pull the thing out and measure the resistence (Ohms). It may have failed under the extreme heat. Your resistor may not be radiating off enough "electrical heat" and this is made worse from ambient temps and exhaust temps. You may just need to alter your design a bit. Maybe not a total failure. Also test under code checking conditions. I think the Helm describes the conditions that need to be met to check emissions and generate a code. Make your bypass resistor assembly and then drive at those RPMs for the time specified. It won't always give you a code under normal driving conditions right at first.
i dunno, i have to check it. I popped out the fuse to reset the car so that I can dyno it properly, I just came back from the dyno and I'm waiting until that check engine light comes back on and i'll see what code it gives.
Take the primary O2 sensor gray wire tap into it.
Connect that to a diode, just so voltage doesn't return down this wire, then to a resistor (prob. less than 100 M), then to the gray wire on the secondary O2 sensor.
My reasoning
I beleive the cat would lean out the exhaust gas thus lowering the voltage in the second O2 sensor compared to the primary. The voltage seen in the first O2 sensor would be dropped at a constant rate then and sent to the ecu as the second O2 sensor voltage.
went to buy a diode yesterday, and the guy at the store told me that most diodes have about a .6 v drop, so i'm thinking this will work. .6v may be too much of a drop, but I'm also not positive on the specifics.
Did the data logging get done? If we knew what voltage the O2 sensor produced with/without a catalytic converter it would be easy to decide on which resistor was needed.
UPDATE.... hehe, i forgot to tell you guys that it snowed here and i think the reason my check engine light came on was because something got stuck to the O2 sensor. So anyway, i washed the underbody and put some duct tape over the sensor and pulled the fuse to make the check engine light go off and since then I havent had the engine light come back on.... its been about 200-500 miles. I also tuned my VAFC so that might have something to do with yet but as of now I havent had a CEL for at least a few weeks!
Well just to help confirm things, can you let us know how you decided on a 10 megaohm resistor? Without an explanation I will be skeptical as to whether or not this is something that is safe and reliable.
I just used 10MegaOhm because I know that it drops WAY more then the necessary .5 volts and as long as I have a VAFC then I can add gas manually instead of the ECU doing it so I know I'm Okay. I wouldnt advise doing this unless you have a VAFC that's tuned. If you decide to do this anyway, make sure you drop .5 volts. Off the top of my head I think a 27 Ohm resister would drop about .5 volts which would theoretically make the car have a perfect fuel/air mix ratio assuming that it was running super-rich. In reality you will probably need to drop only like .2 or .3 volts so get like a 15-20 ohm resister and I suppose it would work, however don't take my word for it. i think someone should try it and see if it works before I say that it actually works. This is all off the top of my head with like 10 seconds of calculating, so if anyone has calculated this better then me fee free to interject.
The rear o2 has nothing to do with the car's "self-tuning" ability all it does is check that the cat is working right, so your vafc tune should have no effect on it.
So when the catalytic converter isn't functioning it produces a given current, when it IS functioning it produces a current that is .5 volts lower? How did you figure this out is what I'm asking.
I just did this with the install of a Testpipe and I still throw code P0420.
WTF Mate!?
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--Jeff-- AIM: MedinaJ78AF or LatinLvr78AF
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