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Old 08-26-2006, 12:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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you mean rebuild? that'd cost just shy of $1000 for just parts if it were a complete rebuild. To tear an engine with 130k miles apart just to change the pistons rings then put it back together would be a gross waste of time.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcpower v2.0
^^ funny thing is that I burn about 3 quarts every 1k miles.

I am pretty sure my valve seals are shot.

do a compression test and see if it is in fact the valve seals. for each cylinder, do a dry test, then do a wet test (a couple squirts of oil down the spark plug hole). If the numbers are higher on the wet test, the rings are worn. If you still think it may be the top end, do a leakdown test. You'll hear a hiss out either the intake or exhaust if that is the case.
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoluder
why dont you replace your piston rings or something?
You might as well do a full rebuild since the block will have to be torn down to be honed. You can't just take the old rings out and install new rings. It doesn't work that way.
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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A leak down test is the best thing to do, as it'll tell you if the exhaust valves, intake valves, or compression rings are leaking. There's really no need to do a compression test if you want to know if there is some leak (and there always will be at least 1% to 2% leak, and that's on a very well built engine).

There isn't really a test to tell you if the valve seals are leaking other than excessive amounts of oil being burned, and then it could be the valve seals or the oil control rings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBYlude
do a compression test and see if it is in fact the valve seals. for each cylinder, do a dry test, then do a wet test (a couple squirts of oil down the spark plug hole). If the numbers are higher on the wet test, the rings are worn. If you still think it may be the top end, do a leakdown test. You'll hear a hiss out either the intake or exhaust if that is the case.
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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if my motor goes *poof* which i hope it doesnt......i wouldnt wanna put another usdm h22 in there....I would want the JDM ....but damn thats some money....4k?!¿?!¿
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:44 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eolife22
if my motor goes *poof* which i hope it doesnt......i wouldnt wanna put another usdm h22 in there....I would want the JDM ....but damn thats some money....4k?!¿?!¿
Maybe a JDM type S with the upgraded trans (I forget the name of it) and a LSD would cost that much. I am getting a JDM H22A4 long block for 1350 shipped.
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Old 08-26-2006, 07:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Don't forget all the work that will need to be done to the JDM H22 prior to installation. Most of them are quite old, and all the gaskets and whatnot need to be replaced. We did a JDM H22 into a 92 S model Prelude a few years ago. The customer bought the engine from HMotorsOnline. The seals were in such bad shape that we went through and replaced every rubber seal except the valve seals and head gasket. After all that work, the engine ran like a top.

I'd surely take a decent shape USDM H22 over an old ragged JDM H22.
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Prelude1897
Damn, those are some low numbers, but I have you beat. My old motor was about 90-120-40-70 and I have no clue how it was still able to run

3-cylinder Prelude FTW!
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Old 09-01-2006, 01:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBYlude
you mean rebuild? that'd cost just shy of $1000 for just parts if it were a complete rebuild. To tear an engine with 130k miles apart just to change the pistons rings then put it back together would be a gross waste of time.
not if you have a honda mechanic who works after hours for cheap !
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