So I have been using oil excessively and made a few posts about swapping in a JDM engine. Now I have figures to back it up. I ran a compression test and got 130, 140, 135, 85 psi. Wet tests bumped them to 165, 165, 165, and 125, and that's with four squirts of oil in each! So I am certain that my rings are Fcked Sweet!
I am going to order my engine and suspension parts in the next week here and damn I am stoked!
I'm gonna be stocked as **** when mine dies. Then it's not a waste to replace the engine, but nessasary.
Yeah that's how I feel. I got a loan and everything, so It's not like I'm working hella hours to afford this. I get to rebuild my suspension too. As far as maintenance goes... T-belt, balancer belts, oil and water pumps, rear main seal, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and I'm debating on doing the head gasket. I probably should. anything I'm missing?
Oh yeah, I'm going through Noyan USA out of Virginia. I have read that they are a good source and they have that 30 day warranty, which isn't anything terribly great but at least it's a warranty.
A while back before I bought my lude, I had a 4cyl Ford Probe in which I bought a JDM FSZE motor for and got ripped off. They sent me a piece of crap that was knocking like crazy. Don't worry they are out of business now "Japan Star Motors" was their name.
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anyway
my engine is running like crap and my compression was 160, 165, 160, 165 respectively. and I am burning oil as well so I am going to overhaul it completely.
the motor will be pulled the head and block sent out to get rebuilt and I plan on forged internals but keeping close to stock compression. when I get the car back I will probably up my n2o to a dry 75 shot to hold me over through the winter.
Then in the spring a Greddy turbo kit, on 10 lbs of boost. The n2o will either be optted out or used to spray the intercooler.
people say I am stupid for waisting all that money when I could get the motor sleeved and some super flat low compression pistons to then boost like 25lbs, but the truth is I just want a comfortable, reliable daily driver that still can hold its own on the street , not an all out race car.
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Last edited by Lunatix_BB6; 08-24-2006 at 08:02 PM.
your HID was so super fly it held the motor together by karma alone. You lights have pimp juice coming out from the side and this makes for the best motor oil. The juice some how got into the block and made your motor run! (and man did it run!)
Hey i did my compression about one month ago and i had 225 ,225, 225, 227 what is the stock compression for and 97 lude h22a4 also i am burning oil i have been reading up on FI maybe turbo but the problem is i have an auto what would be a good suggestion go 5spd and redo engine internals or just rebuilt engine and hope for the best with the current auto trans
225 is VERY high on a stock motor. You've got a ton of carbon buildup in your combustion chamber if you're getting readings that high. But still good consistancy across the board. But still, very suprised to see so many people ready to blow their motors.
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
^^ funny thing is that I burn about 3 quarts every 1k miles.
I am pretty sure my valve seals are shot.
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
So I have been using oil excessively and made a few posts about swapping in a JDM engine. Now I have figures to back it up. I ran a compression test and got 130, 140, 135, 85 psi. Wet tests bumped them to 165, 165, 165, and 125, and that's with four squirts of oil in each! So I am certain that my rings are Fcked Sweet!
I am going to order my engine and suspension parts in the next week here and damn I am stoked!
why dont you replace your piston rings or something?
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Black 93 SI CAI/H/E, AEM CAM gears, jacobselectronics wires, 2.5" drop (sprint springs, kyb shocks), neuspeed front upper strut tower bar, no name rear strut tower bar, chrome dc sports lower rear tie bar, thermal R&D exhaust, DC Header. 17's currently with dunlap sp901's.
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