I just replaced my clutch (through a mechanic) on my H22a stock 98 prelude non-sh. The day before i took it in to the shop i tried to make it slip/stick to accurately tell them what the problem was.. Vtec worked... After I got it back from the shop on friday, the new clutch felt amazing, but Vtec doesnt work. I thought that the oil level could be low, but after putting a quart of 10w-30 in it still no vTec (oil level is now right where it should be). Is it possible they didnt hook something up to the ECU when they took the tranny down? From what I have read vTec is a relatively simple (in concept) system and I have no idea why mine would stop working after a clutch repair.. any insight would be great, thanks.
well it was a light vtec, not racing through the gears, merely leaving it in 2nd and go through the revs, which shouldnt have any impact on the clutch since the engine is engaged. but it bounces off the rev limiter at 6.5k. I've had the car for about 5 years and it hasnt done this before-- except for low oil..
Wow, just found this thread on Google, since I have the same problem! I just had a new clutch kit installed on my RSX Type S, and I noticed that VTEC was gone! Can anyone answer OP's question? I've had a lot of problems with this mechanic and I want to go back there with at least a little bit of knowledge on the subject. Thanks.
very weird stuff hmmm. checking things would be great I reckon someone should just call honda and ask them for help would be so easy cmoon guys one of you call honda lol... BTW with a new clutch you are still putting stress on the plate supposed to run it in like 5,000kms or 10,000 or something but yeah vtecn it aint good at all. It possibly could be your guys engines as well any cel lights? or anything?
Let your car warm up. When cold, the engine won't let u go above 6500...no warm, no VTEC. I am guessing u guys all tried this right after picking ur car up, right? Esp. since there hasn't been any posts on a couple of these in months.
first of all you put 10w in the prelude its 5w-30.... just saying, they might have left the switch unplugged when i do some engine work i forget. if the problem is a reaccurence go back there and make them fix it for free.
first of all you put 10w in the prelude its 5w-30....
This is insane. Actually, I'm pretty sure the owner's manual specifies 5w OR 10w and provides a temperature range for each. But this engine can handle 15w50 with ease, so that has nothing to do with the issue at hand.
^^Agreed. 5W30 was someone's (in)genius idea of gaining you a VERY MINUTE fraction of mileage in terms of fuel consumption.
I also agree with KaserK & spin r g. Just call Honda and be like, "WTF." However, you really need to give that clutch some break-in time or you'll be sorry.
Also, did they check your intake manifold for a tiny mythodical creature? Sometimes a small unicorn will get in there and poke holes in sh!t. Those things can be REAL nasty MOFOs.
^^Agreed. 5W30 was someone's (in)genius idea of gaining you a VERY MINUTE fraction of mileage in terms of fuel consumption.
I also agree with KaserK & spin r g. Just call Honda and be like, "WTF." However, you really need to give that clutch some break-in time or you'll be sorry.
Also, did they check your intake manifold for a tiny mythodical creature? Sometimes a small unicorn will get in there and poke holes in sh!t. Those things can be REAL nasty MOFOs.
Hahahaha. Having a lower weight oil provides lower temperature protection for your car this is the 5 in 5w30 the 30 is basically how thick it is at normal operating temperatures etc etc yada yada. When you start up your car you damage it each time because the components inside the engine are not lubricated as well. I tried 10w30 in my car I noticed the oil light stayed on longer than 5w30 kinda proves the lower protection thingy. ah im so tired.....
Hahahaha. Having a lower weight oil provides lower temperature protection for your car this is the 5 in 5w30 the 30 is basically how thick it is at normal operating temperatures etc etc yada yada. When you start up your car you damage it each time because the components inside the engine are not lubricated as well. I tried 10w30 in my car I noticed the oil light stayed on longer than 5w30 kinda proves the lower protection thingy. ah im so tired.....
This is true, especially for folks where it gets cold. As for folks here in Texas, it doesn't get nearly as cold as other parts of the world. However, as correct as you are I was merely trying to point out the fact that the vehicle manufacturers are trying to tell consumers that using a lower weight oil will give you better fuel economy. This is pure crap.
By recommending a lower weight oil, Honda can claim slightly better mpg numbers to the EPA, but they have certain numbers they need to meet across their entire fleet. You can talk about protecting the engine at cold temps all you want, but if you sufficiently warm your car up before you drive it, as you should, I believe you have a lot more to worry about at higher rpms than cold-temp viscosity.
Honestly, I wanted to put the lightest weight oil I could in my car when I first bought it. I figured lighter weight means less resistance so easier on the motor, but still within Honda specs. But after long discussions with the master mechanic at the shop where my family has serviced their cars for years (they specialize in MB, Volvo, Audi, and Honda), I have been convinced that this is not really sufficient. In the summer months, I have no problems running 15W-50, and I might use 10W-40 in colder months. Granted, we rarely see temps below 20 in NC, but high revving engines can handle that weight and, if exercised regularly at those high revs, need that weight for adequate protection. The ONLY reason to use a lower weight is in extremely cold temperatures or to improve fuel efficiency (slightly). I take engine protection over marginal fuel efficiency.
how hard is it to deduct that the likely cause is the VSS located on the tranny? it doesnt throw a code but usually a ghost code. when the did the install they probably didnt put it in all the way or left a wire loose.
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It is proven that when you start your car you damage your engine that is why it is not recommended and most damaging to force your car to warm up by simply driving it while it is cold. Having 5w is better where it needs the protection at lower temperatures (so if you’re an up and go sort of guy in the morning get 5w-30 and LEFTBRAIN obviously you should warm up your car because it is not up to proper operating level)
Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 (what I use) is not really a gas saving oil it is more of a performance racing oil one of its very benefits is engine protection, fully synthetic etc….. Most of the 5w-30 out there is high quality anyway unlike 10w-40 this is Castrol’s budget brand of oil or normal used oil they say 5w-30 is much better or even the very expensive 0w-40 this is their leading oil proven to do many things but it really isn't fit for our preludes as it gets too thick at high operating temperatures but you can use it! (And DOEKUN I know you are right car manufacturers have been saying that for years same with damn car stores I just tell them to shut up and listen to me. A lot of people even say my engine is not fit for 5w-30 as my mileage is too high obviously they don’t understand how perfect our engines are and that having lower weight oil means more protection)
So what I am saying up there if you have 10w-40 you are making your engine work harder and you are possibly damaging it more when you start it up. 10w (Protection isn’t as high when you start it up) -40 (Engine oil gets too thick at normal operating temperatures) and with 5w-30 oil for the 5w (Protection is there at lower operating temps as the oil is thinner and lubricates all parts hence the better protection) -30 (Just the right normal operating temp or racing temp viscosity for our cars as Honda recommends and of course as Castrol recommends too)
So when you think about even though you live in Texas when you start your car it is cold right? so I’m sure 5w-30 will offer better protection and Honda recommends 10w-30 I don’t see any point when both 5w-30 and 10w-30 have the same high temperature point/viscosity protection. So I am sure Honda Screwed up there.
If you are racing keep with 5w-30 just do what normal racing people do and change your oil before after a race you will definitely notice a difference.
I was changing my oil at around 10,000kms I noticed I didn’t have as much power at the beginning of when I first did my oil change of 5w-30 at around 9,000kms I noticed this. After I changed my oil I noticed a massive difference in power (an increase) and the hesitation issue that I have was not there seriously it was gone which was amazing. After around 4,000kms I noticed the car was not feeling as powerful again obviously more powerful than what it was like at 9,000kms. So I change my oil at around 5,000kms I don’t want to waste oil and money and I was still getting high mileage (750kms to a tank) so it kind of paid off and of course having new oil in your car will protect it much better. Holy sh^t I am now going to study I am procastinating.
how hard is it to deduct that the likely cause is the VSS located on the tranny? it doesnt throw a code but usually a ghost code. when the did the install they probably didnt put it in all the way or left a wire loose.
just read this thread and I would have said the same thing, you tell'em girl haha
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