When starting out in first gear the clutch take-up is usually smooth but I occasionally experience a "judder". It seems to occur more often when stopped on an incline. Clutch plate or motor mount? Search didn't help. Thanks.
no, when the clutch gets glazed, or "burnt" there is no returning, eventually it will get worse and worse and it will be noticed due to the chatter that develops and worsens with use, well in my experience anyway. That is why breaking in a new clutch is so important, as when it is not done it is evry easy to burn/glaze them.
No problem at my end (driving wise). Previous owner was a woman (now deceased so I don't know how she drove).This is not a major issue,simply some roughness on occasion. The clutch starts to engage, then I feel a grabbiness which makes me think the engine will stall and then it goes "over the top" and everything is fine. It's more noticeable on a hill which made me think of motor mounts. Bad weather so no looking yet.
no, when the clutch gets glazed, or "burnt" there is no returning, eventually it will get worse and worse and it will be noticed due to the chatter that develops and worsens with use, well in my experience anyway. That is why breaking in a new clutch is so important, as when it is not done it is evry easy to burn/glaze them.
Can you "see" the glazing from personal inspection?
bringing this thread back to life seems to be the only one i could find that was relatively close to talking about motor mounts. What is a good brand? Guy I work with told me to get the energy suspension mount bushings. I just hear a clunk when i go to shift or in the morning when its cold and im in first gear and tap and let go of the gas to get it to jerk is the most obvious and easiest to re-create. Let me know what you guys think! Also the drivers side axle is going out (this maybe?). My clutch is also heading south! Thanks guys!
I have in my car innovative motor mounts with 65a bushing, they are great, there is vibration at idle but that goes away with increase in rpm. They were kidna spendy but worth every cent.
As for your clutch, i think it is more than liekly teh clutch than the moutns but if you can replcae both do so as it is worth it.
On another note, if you scorch a clutch, when you remove it you will be able to tell when you look at the friction surface of the clutch as it will be shiny and almost blueish like. Also you can look at the surface ont eh flywheel and see if there is any indication of bad driving. ie, harline crackls, bluesih to blackend metal, scours and scvrapes along the surface and some other signs as well.
when you do replce the clutch post up a pic of the bad one and lets see what it looks like.
I deff. will post pics when i do it. I never thought about the clunking being a clutch but now that you say that it only clunks when the car is cold not after it gets warm. And when i am normal driving and go to switch gears when i depress the clutch as it gets all the way down i feel a slight rattle/vibration in my clutch foot. My throw out bearing chirps like a cricket and when im in neutral and push the clutch in and out it squeaks.
Also when im in say 2-3 gear at about 1500-2000 rpms and i hit the gas to accelerate its like it shudders then goes. Its constant though you know.... It will studder/shudder until it gets to about 3500rpms then its normal. Could this be the clutch too?
Also when im in say 2-3 gear at about 1500-2000 rpms and i hit the gas to accelerate its like it shudders then goes. Its constant though you know.... It will studder/shudder until it gets to about 3500rpms then its normal. Could this be the clutch too?
This hesitation in the lower gears could be a couple different thigns really. One of the first thigns i would check would be the fuel filter int his situation, as more often than not this type of hesotation is caused by inability of the fuel to flow the correct amount. Usually a clogged fuel filter will cause this same type of issue.
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