Clutch building up pressure to point of no engaging
This has been a problem for a LONG time now, it first felt like my clutch was going because the clutch was slipping but after replacing the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel its still giving me problems.
So when I drive my car for the first time in the morning the clutch feels normal and I don't have any problems but once i start driving the clutch begins to build up pressure and the engage point moves up and it will eventually get to the point where its slipping like crazy so i can barely even move forward. I have replaced the rubber line in the clutch line with a steel braided one, no success. I am at the point to where I want to take it to the dealer and have them fix it but honestly I don't think they have the first idea what would be causing this.
The only way I can relieve the pressure in the line so I can continue driving is by unscrewing the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. I have also replaced the slave cylinder after the clutch install.
PLEASE HELP ME
I'm in lude hell right now. Plus i just got a flat, time to order some tires.
Try replacing both the master and slave cylinders. Bleed when done.
They have both been replaced within the last 24 months, the master went first when i lost all pressure, and then after the clutch install the slave went and it was replaced two times because we thought the slave might be the culprit.
Sounds like there is air in the lines. As you keep driving the air moves to the slave cylinder.
i agree definently sounds like it has air in the system when u bleed r u bleeding it from the slave cylinder?
if u r r u making sure to keep the resivoir filled with fluid?
if you dont it will suck air into the system in which case u will need to crack the bleeder then tighten it and pump the slave cylinder to push the fluid back then pump the clutch ull have to do this a few times
that happened to me but when i did it my clutch pedal went to the floor so i had to bring pressure back but u still might want to try pumping the slave cylinder to something along those lines lol im a diesel and construction equipment mechanic not an auto mechanic so dont quote me here but hope it helps at least a little
Ok correct me if i'm wrong but every time i untighten the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder i am bleeding the system and therefore would get the air out? I dont see how there could possibly be any air in the lines.
When you open the screw, you have to have someone else push the pedal. You can't just unscrew the bleeder screw. This is a 2 person job, no exceptions.
You can google it if you need to know more about bleeding the clutch.
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I am having the same problem. I too thought about air being in the line and went to a lot of trouble to bleed the system. However if there is air in the line how would that cause the problem. If anything the air in the line would compress and keep this from happening.
On his car and on my son's 99 Prelude after you drive for a while (15 - 20 Minutes) the clutch seems to pump up like a brake system with problems to the point that the clutch does not engage fully.
On my son's car only the master cylinder was rebuilt because it was leaking. The rebuild kit consist of only the piston and seals (already assembled) and a dust cover so it is difficult to screw it up. Have you had any success in getting it fixed?
When you open the screw, you have to have someone else push the pedal. You can't just unscrew the bleeder screw. This is a 2 person job, no exceptions.
You can google it if you need to know more about bleeding the clutch.
It can be done 1 man if you have no choice.
I use a bleed line and open the bleeder slightly. Then pump maybe five times, and check how the fluid is moving, then adding to the reservoir as needed.
You have to do a lot of moving around, but it is very do-able.
I am having the same problem. I too thought about air being in the line and went to a lot of trouble to bleed the system. However if there is air in the line how would that cause the problem. If anything the air in the line would compress and keep this from happening.
On his car and on my son's 99 Prelude after you drive for a while (15 - 20 Minutes) the clutch seems to pump up like a brake system with problems to the point that the clutch does not engage fully.
On my son's car only the master cylinder was rebuilt because it was leaking. The rebuild kit consist of only the piston and seals (already assembled) and a dust cover so it is difficult to screw it up. Have you had any success in getting it fixed?
Nope i'm just about where i've been for months, I am about 90% sure that there is no air in the lines it has been done manually and with a machine at a shop....
Your problem might be your clutch install. If any of the clutch fingers are bent, broken, or jacked, this will be a problem. There could be a variety of other clutch issues as well. I think you need to pull the tranny and look.
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I am not an active moderator on this site anymore. Please contact Phryxis or liquidxnitez for help with your issues.
Your problem might be your clutch install. If any of the clutch fingers are bent, broken, or jacked, this will be a problem. There could be a variety of other clutch issues as well. I think you need to pull the tranny and look.
negative, the clutch flywheel and pressure plate were all replaced because I thought my clutch was gone.
it might be a possibility but the chances are very slim
negative, the clutch flywheel and pressure plate were all replaced because I thought my clutch was gone.
it might be a possibility but the chances are very slim
If you recently replace the clutch, then it's even more likely it's a tranny problem. I would also make sure your throw out bearing and clutch fork are in proper shape. Bending clutch forks has been known to happen.
__________________
I am not an active moderator on this site anymore. Please contact Phryxis or liquidxnitez for help with your issues.
If you recently replace the clutch, then it's even more likely it's a tranny problem. I would also make sure your throw out bearing and clutch fork are in proper shape. Bending clutch forks has been known to happen.
Blah this sounds like a pain, how much do you think it would cost to get looked at?
OLD THREAD UPDATE:
I forgot to post a update when I fixed this, it was really simple the clutch pedal adjustment screw on the pedal just needed to be adjusted and fixed everything.
I am having the same issue with my clutch and have replaced the clutch, master and slave cylinders and even the pressure hose. What exactly did you do when adjusting your pedal that helped to correct the continual pressure build? I really hope this solves my problem, because I am at a total loss at this point and almost to the point of just buying a new car lol.
I am having the same issue with my clutch and have replaced the clutch, master and slave cylinders and even the pressure hose. What exactly did you do when adjusting your pedal that helped to correct the continual pressure build? I really hope this solves my problem, because I am at a total loss at this point and almost to the point of just buying a new car lol.
Ok, you know how to adjust the clutch pedal with the nuts on the rod that goes from the pedal through the firewall? Just adjust that. I'm not really sure how else to explain it.
EDIT:
There is the view of it from the repair manual.
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