hey ppl like you are always making something out of nothing. this thread isnt about you or me. i'm just trying to help the poor guy out based on what i've seen and have worked on. so my bad if your ego is stepped on. as i recall you were the first one to call me out.
Dude, I've been trying to help the OP with this problem for over 2 months now. I had almost the same problem with my car not that long ago. You came in out of nowhere acting like it was definately the timing and couldn't possibly be anything else. Then you told him to do something to his car that isn't even possible, while bragging that you've been a certified Honda tech for 8 years so you obviously know what you're talking about, only to end up being wrong.
None of this I had a problem with. I'm pretty laid back most of the time, and think arguing about trivial things like this is stupid. The thing that got me was when you told me to "do your research before you make a comment". You've been a certified Honda technician for 8 years, but I knew that OBD2 H22's couldn't be timed that way after only 30 seconds of searching this forum.
It wasn't my ego that got stepped on, because I was right. It was your cocky, know-it-all attitude that pissed me off. And maybe not even so much an attitude, as it was that comment. I know better than anybody that the tone of a conversation is lost over the internet, and it is sometimes hard to tell how somebody means what they say. So I'm willing to just drop this **** now. I don't have the time or the energy to argue with somebody I don't know over something so insignificant. So whatever man. Sorry if I offended you at all. That first post I made in response to what you said wasn't really a call-out. I was just letting you know that what you were saying was incorrect. and if you read the post, I actually think I was pretty nice about it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lude Acts
Our cars aren't adjusted that way. The timing is only adjustable by getting adjustable cam gears or having the ECU tuned. Moving the distributor on a H22 Prelude won't do anything. The timing will always just go right back to what the ECU tells it to be.
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The Japanese have a saying......"The nail that sticks out gets hammered."
lol best man of the group is the one that grins and bares it and moves on. lol if you really wanted it to end you wouldn't say no big deal and try to get the last word in :P
I was just thinking a simple thing to try... after making changes to your car have you tried resetting your Computer? Pulling the Radio/Clock fuse under the hood? Who knows maybe it just needs a reset... won't hurt and it only takes a few mins.
lol best man of the group is the one that grins and bares it and moves on. lol if you really wanted it to end you wouldn't say no big deal and try to get the last word in :P
Such is life lol
I wasn't trying to get the last word in, just trying to explain that this whole deal started over an obvious misunderstanding of how I meant what I said to him. Like I said, he thought I was calling him out, when all I was trying to do was make sure that the information given was correct.
This whole ordeal is just a big misunderstanding, and I'm over it.
BTW, This isn't me trying to get the last word in either. Feel free to speak at will. I'm kinda out of ideas on what could be causing the OP's misfire anyway. He's tried damn near everything already.
Sorry to everybody for the misunderstanding, the threadjack, and the almost full page we just wasted on eBeef. Let's all get back to helping Itzroyal.
I'm still waiting for him to do the non-fouler mod, so I can see if that helps. LMK when you get it done, and what the results are. Mechanical o2 Fix - evolutionm.net
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The Japanese have a saying......"The nail that sticks out gets hammered."
yea try the non-fouler mod first. cheapest. squash the beef! there is also something else that i have only seen twice happen. ppl dont run their cars hard enough and carbon actually builds up on the inside of the valve over the years. that right there will cause the car to have miss fires on all cylinder. i have tried to decarbon them with GM top engine cleaner, even soaking it over nite. not very much help. only quick solution to that if it comes down to it is to takw the head off and have the valves worked on. other long solution is to decarbon the car yourself once a week a few months. that may help it. thats why the egr ports get clogged up so easily in these cars if you don't run them hard.
I have already cleaned the ports and replaced the EGR. Afterwards, i drove the car really hard for a good 30 mins to burn off the excess carbon built up. Still showing up misfiring. I am bringing the car back this wednesday to have them run more test and see what happens.
yea try the non-fouler mod first. cheapest. squash the beef! there is also something else that i have only seen twice happen. ppl dont run their cars hard enough and carbon actually builds up on the inside of the valve over the years. that right there will cause the car to have miss fires on all cylinder. i have tried to decarbon them with GM top engine cleaner, even soaking it over nite. not very much help. only quick solution to that if it comes down to it is to takw the head off and have the valves worked on. other long solution is to decarbon the car yourself once a week a few months. that may help it. thats why the egr ports get clogged up so easily in these cars if you don't run them hard.
Haha. Where were you when I was having my random Cyl. 1 misfire? I could used that advice...I put $250 in the car for plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and a new Ignition Control Module inside the distributor, only to find out it was my damn EGR ports clogged. Cost me $3 for the plugs, $5 for carb cleaner, $5 for a set of brushes, and I borrowed my body guys slide hammer. HAHAHA I don't care though. Because that was the last thing I tried. That's why I thought I could be of so much help to Itzroyal with his misfire. Because I had the same damn problem and tried EVERYTHING (From a tune-up, to cleaning the IACV, cleaning the EGR Valve itself,to replacing the ICM...etc.) to solve it. I was one step short of replacing the distributor (which the OP already did) and switching ECU's (which I think he may also have done already.)
Itzroyal, you still need to do the non-fouler and valve adjustment, right?
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The Japanese have a saying......"The nail that sticks out gets hammered."
Didn't switch ECU. Ruling that out until last option.
Valve adjustment couldn't be done because after market cams are installed in the car from the previous owner.
Yeah, but I thought somebody said you can still adjust the valves to factory spec, because they are adjusted when they are closed. Honda won't do it, but a different shop probably will. Or you could do it yourself. It's not hard. The engine has to be stone cold though. I usually let my car sit overnight, then adjust the valves the following morning just to be sure. I wanted to do a valve adjustment on my car before, and I had been driving it throughout the day, and it took over 4 hours with the valve cover off and a fan blowing on the valvetrain for it to cool down to a temp. that I felt was cool enough. BTW, how does Honda know the cams are aftermarket? Did they measure the lobes? I don't get it. Maybe you could just take the car to a different dealershhip, and they wouldn't know that the cams are aftermarket.....
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The Japanese have a saying......"The nail that sticks out gets hammered."
you are right about the valve adjustments. it doesnt matter how big the cams are that you are running. all you are doing is adjusting them when they are closed to make sure that they are full closed when they are suppose to. any mechanic can do it for you. ask one of the honda guys if they will just do it one the side. have you been having this problem since you had the car?
Well there is the problem right there. Some goof put after market cams in the prelude thinking he was super cool. Probably ****ed it up and then sold it. Just buy a new engine and that will solve all your problems.
As of now, one of my buddy that works at Honda is driving my car for about a week or so to see if there is an actual misfiring. So far, the CEL is still on displaying multiple misfiring but he said it drives fine. The mechanic there will follow the procedures in the manual step by step to tackle this misfiring problem. I will ask them to do the valve adjustment according to what you guys suggested. The mechanic that has been working on my car did say the valves is really tight. I don't know how he is going to adjust it. -_-
how do they know that the valves are really tight unless they have taken off the valve cover and let the car cool down. can't even attempt to gauge it unles it's ice cold. no expansion of the metal. your buddy driving it won't help. the misfire you have won't be picked up by humans. its so slight that the ecu is picking it up through the knock sensor. why ask for help if you don't follow it. you are going to spend a lot more money getting it diagnose at the dealership. if you have that kind of money more power to you bro. you've already spent a lot of money already. the non- fouler mod is cheap and getting your valves adjusted is only 1.5 hr labor at most which is equal to 140 bucks at max. you are almost out of options. what else you have to loose?
"you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink it".
He attempted to adjust the valves about two months ago... he couldn't do it because it was really tight. They are gonna start working on the car this Monday hopefully. I'm not paying the labor rate price because they are gonna work on it off the clock. I can't say when they gonna get everything done but can't be picky about it since they are doing it as a favor. I already suggested the valve lash to them and they will look into it for me. Probably won't hear anything back until mid week or so.
I don't know if I already mentioned this, but when I had my uber-irritating and persisitent P0133, what it finally came down to was Honda had to clear the code, the service advisor called it a "hard lock" or w/e. It made the light go away and I did believe the guy whole-heartedly because he didn't charge me anything, not even that initial $120 for them to look at it and say, "yep, CEL is on."
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I'm kinda out of ideas on what could be causing the OP's misfire anyway. He's tried damn near everything already. 
I could used that advice...I put $250 in the car for plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and a new Ignition Control Module inside the distributor, only to find out it was my damn EGR ports clogged. Cost me $3 for the plugs, $5 for carb cleaner, $5 for a set of brushes, and I borrowed my body guys slide hammer. HAHAHA I don't care though. Because that was the last thing I tried. That's why I thought I could be of so much help to Itzroyal with his misfire. Because I had the same damn problem and tried EVERYTHING (From a tune-up, to cleaning the IACV, cleaning the EGR Valve itself,to replacing the ICM...etc.) to solve it. I was one step short of replacing the distributor (which the OP already did) and switching ECU's (which I think he may also have done already.)
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