most of the work i do myself, if not i go to this one shop that only deals with tuner cars, I got all 4 injectors from here Honda Rebuilt Injectors - for Fuel Injection came out to be $250 shipped next day, and its been a few days and still no cel!
pulled the codes out again.. misfiring in cylinder 1 and 2. Cleared the code and drove off the lock and the light started blinking again. The car shakes pretty badly when at a stop but not really idling. Is there any reason why my engine is running rich the way it is?
Ugh. Now you got a blinking CEL? That's an active misfire, which is more severe than a random one. I'm still stumped on this. I know you said you got a new IM. Maybe the intake mani gasket has a leak. That could do it.
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Ok! At the risk of jinxing myself as well, I think I found the solution to our problem. I dont know if anyone else's gives them the same rev issue mine did this week. Tues my car at a parked idle would start to jump from about 900RPM's and bounce to about 1100RPM's and then repeat. I've never had this problem. So as any of us say when our pricey toy's start to give us more sh*t, "What now!?". After looking over every wire and component that i've replaced, nothing. Then my machanic's buddy pointed out something very simple that I had never though of messing with, the fricken "IAC"! I had spent so much on all the other componets that that completly slipped my eye and mind. Upon removal of my IAC (Kind of a cylindrical tube with two bolts and two hoses on the front side of the intake) I was embarrased. There are to ports inside that valve (in and out). The port that takes in air has a mesh screen that was clogged to all hell!! Upon usage of some carb cleaner and some hi pressure air, she looked good as new.
*Side note: If your gonna work on this, let the car cool due to a coolant line that is connected to it as well!! I was in a hurry, Ouch.
After bolting it back up, it was as if she was reborn! I have never heard my car idle and sound so good. However, you will need to clear the storred codes for it to act right. Mind sounded better until I cleared everything out, then it was a night and day diff. I dogged her out on the streets for a while to see if a could pull any codes, nothing at the time. Her response on speed and throttle increased and her idle is smooth as silk. I spent all that money just to use a $5 dollar can of cab cleaner and some air! Now I did all that work on Tuesday. I didn't want to get yalls hopes up till I really put it through some tests. I did get a code yesterday but thank god it wasnt a misfire! A p0130 and p0131 popped up. No big deal really, O2 sensor malfunction bank 1 , O2 sensor low voltage bank 1. I can deal with that any day!! Cleared the codes on that right after and they havent come back. I even checked my plug's yesterday just to see if cyl 1 & 2 had fouled out, but ALL of my plugs were clean. Its the IAC guys! Thats my bet. Clean your IAC's. Speckthedeck and Itzroyal, try and see if you can mess wit it this weekend and let me know what happens to yours. It'll take about 20min to take off. Good luck guys!!!
Last edited by Blackspyder : 06-13-2009 at 08:21 AM.
My active misfiring (blinking CEL) only comes on when i am on a slant at a red light or stop sign. Under normal driving condition, the blinking never comes on. Only when my car is stopped on a slant, will cause the CEL to blink and the car will start to shake rough. Pulled the codes and is misfiring in cylinder 2 and 4. After a good few hours of leaving the car off, I get back in and start the car, the light will remain on, but the blinking will stop and the car won't shake.
I have the same problem blinking CEL signifying active misfire. My car idles fine around 900 but when warm it will sometimes drop to 800-850 and the motor will shake significantly. It will hold an idle but will shake. It is also running rich as i can smell it from the exhaust. Can't figure it out...
Well, I got rid of my missfire finally. But it came with the cost of an idle. I need yall's input to see if anyone has had this issue im on now. If any body is still missing and hasn't tried the IAC or Fast Idle control valve, start there. The IAC fixed mine. But I'm about to plug it back up and see if I can get the miss back. You see, now my lude gives me a jumpy idle at park. It may jump up and down about 500rpms to no more than 800. Sometimes it will give me one during low speeds that constintly jumps up and down by 200rpm! Its causing my transmission to act funny cause the computer is freaking out on where to hold an idle and where to shift. It sounds like horrible, like someone learning a standard for the first time as it bucks in gear! I changed the MAP sensor, checked for vacuum leaks and changed both sensors to the block. Through out all this junk I still haven't gotten a miss. But she acted a lot better when she had that then now!!!
itzroyal, check to see that the screens\filters on injector #2 aren't plugged. You can either look at them or switch injectors between cylinders, then check to see if your misfire follows the injector to the new cyliner, or if it stays the same or goes away.
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itzroyal, check to see that the screens\filters on injector #2 aren't plugged. You can either look at them or switch injectors between cylinders, then check to see if your misfire follows the injector to the new cyliner, or if it stays the same or goes away.
Just been really busy lately. My car club had our Summer Meet last weekend. We went racing at Nelson Ledges Road Course and then spent the rest of the weekend at Mid-Ohio, watching other people race on a road course. It was pretty fun, but it exhausted the hell out of me and I took about a week to recover from just being so damn tired. Walking around a road course all weekend takes it out of you. There are a lot of hills.
Having any luck yet? I'm pretty stumped for ideas, which is also a little bit why I haven't posted in a minute. BTW be sure when switching injectors around to lube all the rubber o-rings with vaseline, as not to tear them upon reinstallation.
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Alright.. From what I've read, you still haven't tried placing the spark plug defouler on your secondary o2 yet.. Your going to be pretty pissed off when this works . You have a high-flow cat, this is going to cause problems with the secondary o2 and thus causing your car to start running rich. JUST DO IT! I've been there, done that, and am well past this(gutted Vibrant high flow, similar situation).
As for the compression check~ your mechanic was correct; unnecessary(for your exact situation that is). You said you weren't burning any oil. You need a valve adjustment either way, one should be performed every 90k miles(even if your car runs fine, no CEL). But you cant because you don't know what type of aftermarket cams you have..?(for real? wtf..) Instead of spending a million dollars playing games with your local Honda mechanic just BUY OEM CAMS..! Then you can have your valve lash adjusted. Do it yourself, it isn't hard its just tedious and a bit redundant. If this nothing in this route is effective (it will be so ignore everything past this) Say you decide to keep the cams, get some adjustable cam gears, go to a performance shop and have it timed a bit more precisely.
-Make sure you read how to do everything before you try it yourself.
-For the drilling of the defouler- just have it done with a mill. Don't waste your time trying all sorts of bs doing it with a power drill(1/2" diamond bit $7).
Perform the defouler operation as soon as possible.. I'm 99% positive this will fix your problem. I only used the one defouler on mine and it works fine. Extended highway will excite the CEL, in which case do as the write up a few pages back suggested and use both defoulers. Give this a shot and let me know the results. PS- make sure to remember to clear the codes afterward!
Okay, I will do the defouler and the injector swap sometimes this week hopefully. From what i read, the defouler mod is plug to the primary o2 sensor, is that correct? Also, for the injectors, can i lube it with regular motor oil instead of vaseline?
And this is done to the secondary O2 sensor. The one after the cat. Sorry blue5thgenbb, but if this works, I'm taking credit because I suggested that ItzRoyal do this months ago.
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And this is done to the secondary O2 sensor. The one after the cat. Sorry blue5thgenbb, but if this works, I'm taking credit because I suggested that ItzRoyal do this months ago. [/QUOTE
Feel free to take the credit- as long as you also take the credit for suggesting nearly everything under the sun including replacing his motor(lol yeah right). Not to mention the money this poor fella spent at Honda . Crazy guys on here lol..
As for you Royal~ dont replace your injectors until you try this!! Its a 2000 model right? As long as you have used premium(>91 octane) your fine. Young injectors wont just take a crap on you like that..(unless you have been using some regular 87)
As for your cat being welded on; this shouldn't affect the procedure at all. Its the secondary o2 exclusively were working with. No lube necessary.. If your really worried about the defouler corroding paint them with high temp paint. So quit buying stuff for your car until you've tried this! You have replaced more stuff just trying to solve this than I have on my dd 90 integra!
I have a 01 sh model. I didn't do the non fouler mod because the codes for my cat converter didn't show up after i changed my cat to a high flow when my old one failed. Prior to changing my cat, I was already having this misfiring issue, so i didn't think doing the non fouler would help. But I will get the parts tomorrow and do it this weekend and see how it turns out. Thanks for the suggestions. This thread has been open for quite some time and both Speck and I really appreciate the help!
Itzroyal, I figured out yer problem. It's the high-flow cat throwing off the reading on your secondary O2 sensor. You can fix it for like $4. Here's a write-up with no pictures. You need 2 spark plug non foulers, and drill one of them out. Connect them together, then connect them to the secondary O2 sensor. Bam! No more issues. It spaces your O2 sensor away from the cat a little, and fixes the P0420, which is probably causing the other random misfire codes. Mechanical o2 Fix - evolutionm.net
Posted 5 months ago.^^^^^ I've always suggested the cheaper possible solutions first. I learned the hard way when I needlessly spent $250 diagnosing the misfire I had.
I'm from Willoughby, 30 miles east of Cleveland. Check out ohpoc.org
We just finished our Summer Meet last weekend. It was a blast.
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Lude Acts~ Either way, my point still stands . Bummer about being so far north.. I live just north of Cincinnati.
Itzroyal~ I promise you they carry defoulers.. I bought mine from an autozone.. The people that work there are just ****ing stupid. It would be under a "HELP" category I believe.
Size. Im about 99% positive its an 18mm. When you go to pep boys juat ask them to see an oem secondary o2 and make sure it fits. They should be cool with that; thats what I did at autozone soo.
I will check out ohpoc and sign up. Would be nice to know more people with preludes. I know three people with ludes. One just happened to fall into one, doesn't care. Another has like 600whp, brides, cf everything, and all the goods that fall between(im not that status..) and the other is a toilet.. Weak.
Is there any room left on the wagon? Fixed the idle issue, damn intake gasket! But now my missfire is back!! Square one again.... I would say i'm with speck, but i did an engine swap. That didnt solve it. Maybe if i send it to japan.....
I donno chief. Make sure you have good ignition components ~ngk Iridium, good cables, dist cap, dist rotor, fuel filter, use premium, maybe check your egr. If you have an exhaust(high flow cat) then use a defouler or get some kind of piggyback ecm.
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The Block 51St........
But she acted a lot better when she had that then now!!!
. You have a high-flow cat, this is going to cause problems with the secondary o2 and thus causing your car to start running rich. JUST DO IT! I've been there, done that, and am well past this(gutted Vibrant high flow, similar situation). 
) Say you decide to keep the cams
, get some adjustable cam gears, go to a performance shop and have it timed a bit more precisely. 
. Bummer about being so far north.. I live just north of Cincinnati.
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