I just had my motor done for the second time,new pistons rings bottom end all the good stuff,and also had all new guides put in for the valves since they were a little shakey. Anyway about a week after driving i came to a stop and the car just died.So i thought i didnt press the clutch in all the way and went about my way,on my way back to work it died twice when coming to a stop.I checked all connections vaccum and electrical and all seemed fine,then after i messed with them it started up and would die unless i gave it some gas.After work it started fine and didnt stall til today again,it was stalling left and right when i would come to a stop,and if it doesnt stall the RPMs go really low then gradually come back up again. Also the IAC and FITV are brand new,and i have no check engine light,does anyone have any insight on what else to check for....
If any advice counts, this probably isn't it but my brother in law rebuilt his bottom end and forgot to put the spacer on his crank. That put it a little out of wack and the same thing happened and one of the times it stalled it wouldn't start. We tried to push start it and the car wouldn't turn over. That's when he tore it apart and realized he didn't put it in.
Like I said. Highly unlikely but that's what happened. We spent lots of time looking for vacuum leaks, electrical probs etc.
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Well as i was making this post earlier i had my battery disconnected.After i was done i went outside and hooked it back up and restarted it and let it idle for 5 minutes,i shut if off and then went for a ride.It seems a little better but whenever i let off the gas the rpms drop to like 300 and back to 6 or 700 and stay there.It;s weird
by spacer in the crank im assuming you mean the thrust washers
im having stalling issues myself and i think it might be because my timing is one tooth off. have you replaced your belt recently?? because the car still runs fine it just stalls when the RPMs drop.
__________________ Ohio Luders
-06 Civic Si
-92 Prelude Si
-98 Prelude Base
-92 Prelude S
by spacer in the crank im assuming you mean the thrust washers
im having stalling issues myself and i think it might be because my timing is one tooth off. have you replaced your belt recently?? because the car still runs fine it just stalls when the RPMs drop.
Yup. Thrust washers. Thank you.
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I had the ignition recall done a year or 2 ago when i came out,wasnt there another one though? Timing should be on also,im not getting a misfire or anything odd like that
My '98 does the stall thing too every once in a while. I've had the ignition recall done too, and it still stalls sometimes. I have no idea why it only does it sometimes, though.
Fuel Pump isnt gonna cause a stall when coming to a stop,most of the times the fuel pump gives no warning and just stops.There really in only 2 things,IAC and possibly FITV that could cause this,i replaced a few months back.Well i think i fixed it for now,i reset the ECU and turned the idle up a bit cause it was idling at like 400rpms,i think they were dipping to low and that;s where the stall was occuring,
This is a VERY common problem on the H22. It is "normal" for it to dip low before settling at the idle spec when clutching (engine RPMs falling from above idle). The most common cause is the ignition. Check the ignition. Make sure your plugs and wires and cap/rotor are good and the wires are making good contact.
Check your O2 sensors. If more than 7 years or 100k miles old, replace them.
Check ignition timing. Shouldn't be an issue on a 5g with OEM ECU and ignition/distributor (could be if swapped to OBD1 or standalone).
Dirty injectors can be an issue, too. You can try some Regane or Techron but I doubt if it's this bad that will help.
Check compression. Bad rings or bent/burnt valves that aren't seating properly will cause enough compression leakage to reduce the idle beyond what the idle adjust and IACV can compensate for.
Check the idle speed. If all the above checks out OK, set it. If you run out of adjustment you've got one of the above or something mechanical wrong.
I was RARELY having a similar problem idle would drop to low right after clutching and would die. After having some other problems with hesitation, my Primary 02 sensor threw a check engine light (code 61).
I bought a new sensor for $54 on oxygensensors.com. It fixed all my many problems as well as the problem of my idle dropping too low and sometimes dying.
Good luck bud, let us know what fixed it.
Shane
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'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rice Girl
Screenshot of what? Me wanting sex? i always want it..that's no secret. But I already had it.
Both 02 sensors are new, within 6 months.
Timing is dead on, just had all new guides Put in exhuast side 2 weeks ago,intake side was done a year ago. with new valves. Pistons,Rings all brand new and bearings, caps and so forth.
I havent done plugs, cap or rotor i a while.The first rebuild was a flake,blowing through 2 qts of oil in 500 miles. Second rebuild is money. 1k miles and not an ounce of oil lost, no smoking either.
I adjusted the idle screw a bit and made sure IACV and FITV were clean,they were.But since i had issues with last rebuild and now the current one is good i never had it adjusted right. Now with good compression and everything i adjusted better,i also have Pullies which makes it dip a little lower.I did all adjustments and i seems fine now. Lets hope it stays that way!
P.S. I did have a 5 Speed swap done.Idle has never been that same...
Oh, here we go...
If your 5spd ecu came from a different year, you will have stalling problems because the EVAP works differently.
If you take your old SS ecu (not the transmission computer) you can change it to a 5spd ecu by moving 1 resistor to another location (search, I've posted it on here before) you will have a 5spd ecu that will control your evap properly.
I had the problem fixed,my car is a 99.At first it had a 97 ECU in it. Then i swapped it out with a 00 ECU.I think its mostly due to my idle.My car idles at like 450rpms.I think if i raise it i wont have as much troubles.
I've been having the same issue showing up. It seems that it will be fine for hundreds of miles and then in an instant, it starts stalling and producing low power. If i shut it down and restart it, it (*knock on wood*) always restarts and continues on its marry way. It is in no way reproducible and is not effected by road/suspension travel. I've had the same o2 sensor for 100K, which rolled over 2 days ago. Maybe its time.
it'd be nice to figure it out. I've had it stall coming to a stop due to traffic on the freeway. I'd hate to watch my p/s go limp and hit sombody.
I just did a search, and this post is exactly the same problem i currently have right now. I've started threads on this very subject with little responses so maybe just continuing one would be better. Just one question though, when u tighten the idle screw, r u increasing the idle? i've tried tighten all the way and loosening it all the way, im still getting low dips and sometimes stalling, some days being real bad and other days idling just fine but its only doing this when coming to a stop. (lol its kinda embarassing when at public places, it looks like ur a rookie at driving stick) i've dealt with this problem for months and tried trial & error with everything (new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, air filter, all service recalls done) Im finally caving and going to Honda for a diagnostic check for $82. Hopefully they'll tell me the problem so i can fix it and sell my car and get an S2K. if they can't find the problem im taking her out back and putting a bullet through her like ol' yeller.
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'97 Honda Prelude Base 5MT
Currently 99k miles, MPG: 22
Service Light Color: Yellow
IAC and the preludes dont like the cold weather start. I have the same problem every winter. I adjust my idle and then when it starts to warm up i re adjust it back.
but its only doing this when coming to a stop. (lol its kinda embarassing when at public places, it looks like ur a rookie at driving stick) i've dealt with this problem for months and tried trial & error with everything (new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, air filter, all service recalls done) Im finally caving and going to Honda for a diagnostic check for $82. Hopefully they'll tell me the problem so i can fix it and sell my car and get an S2K. if they can't find the problem im taking her out back and putting a bullet through her like ol' yeller. 
