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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,676
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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If you want to properly bleed anything brakes, clutch, etc., don't be cheap with the fluid. Don't just add fluid to the resovoir. What you want to do is get some cheap tubing from a local hardware store that will fit tightly over the bleeder nipple. You want to first drain out the old fluid and then run the tube from the bleeder nipple into a clean mason jar or whatever, making sure the end of the hose is always under the level of the fluid. This will keep air bubbles from coming up back through the bleeder nipple and giving you that spongy feeling in your brakes or clutch. You don't want the bleeder nipple very loose either--just loose enough to let fluid out when you push the clutch. Then pour new fluid in the resovoir and push the clutch a couple of times, but be careful not to run the resovoir dry or you will get air in there and you will have to start all over. Do this a few times just to clean out anything that might be in the cylinder or lines. Don't be afraid to use the whole can of fluid, or even two. The stuff only costs $3 and it's going to be in there for years. Once you have cleaned out the lines, close the nipple with the hose still attached--again, because you don't want air to get back in the lines. Once it is properly tightened, take the hose off and top off the resovoir. Push the clutch and make sure there aren't any leaks and you're done.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
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