Yo,
Anyone out there with an Aluminum flywheel installed. Is the power boost worth it or Dyno proven. Also, are these Aluminum Flywheels durable enough to last? I'm thinking about getting the Fidanza Flywheel. Thanx
Originally posted by daviddo Yo,
Anyone out there with an Aluminum flywheel installed. Is the power boost worth it or Dyno proven. Also, are these Aluminum Flywheels durable enough to last? I'm thinking about getting the Fidanza Flywheel. Thanx
There is no "power boost" from just this mod alone.
With it you *should* go up the RPM range faster, BUT you will also drop down the RPM range faster.
Lets say you're "racing" and you shift at a conservative 7400 RPMs it will fall out of VTEC range if you are not fast enough. maybe if you shift at about 7700-8000 RPMS you will stay in VTEC range.
Personally I think this mod is best for FI and high power NA applications. And if you do decide to get a lighter flywheel installed, look into getting a clutch kit and an LSD (Quaife) installed at the same time.
Last edited by BlueShadow; 11-22-2001 at 10:04 PM.
Some places take stock flywheels and they shave away the excess weight. This will make the flywheel brittle and warp if TO MUCH material is shaved away.
Some places will even attach STEEL inserts/plates to these shaved stock flywheel and claim that it strengthens them. BUT since Aluminum(flywheel) and Steel(insert) have different heat expansion rates this might be a very BAD idea. I have heard of cases where the steel inserts separate from the aluminum flywheel WHILE its rotating. I don't have to tell you how fast a flywheel rotates but I would'nt want a piece of steel richocheting around the engine bay, or worse inside the passenger compartment. There might also be cases of brittle flywheels disintegrating in the Tranny and doing who-knows-what.
That leaves you with Chromoly, but I don't know if this is even available for H22's. I'm sure they are I just haven't looked into them. As far as durability for those, I can't remember but it's not as bad as a brittle aluminum flywheel or one fitted with projectile-steel inserts.
Any flywheel can fall apart? I have yet to hear of a single aluminum flywheel fall apart. Although, I have heard of a few chromoly flywheels that chewed up the teeth on the starter....
As for the heat expansion, that would be easy to cure. Just make the steel friction surface "float." Just like you do with race brakes. Usually the rotor is made out of cast iron, but the hat is made out of aluminum. The rotors are made to float so that one can expand independently of the other. That's why two piece rotors don't warp nearly as bad as one piece rotors. I would be surprised to learn that Fidanza didn't do it. Then again, I don't feel like removing those 30 nuts that hold the friction plate on my Fidanza flywheel to find out....
Originally posted by 71dsp Any flywheel can fall apart? I have yet to hear of a single aluminum flywheel fall apart. Although, I have heard of a few chromoly flywheels that chewed up the teeth on the starter....
I meant getting your stock flywheel and machined to superlightweight proportions, would shaving of to much material cause the flywheel to become brittle or warped? that's where i was getting at.
And I have also heard the same thing about the starter teeth getting chewed up, I remembered Jun's lightwieght flywheel did that to the 99-00 Civic Si's starters. which is why I got the TODA for my 99 Si, at the time I didn't hear of a single incident with the TODA flywheel, but with H22's who knows....
Quote:
Originally posted by 71dsp As for the heat expansion, that would be easy to cure. Just make the steel friction surface "float." Just like you do with race brakes. Usually the rotor is made out of cast iron, but the hat is made out of aluminum. The rotors are made to float so that one can expand independently of the other. That's why two piece rotors don't warp nearly as bad as one piece rotors. I would be surprised to learn that Fidanza didn't do it. Then again, I don't feel like removing those 30 nuts that hold the friction plate on my Fidanza flywheel to find out....
what he said.. but Billy is that common practice for Flywheels? what's the likelyhood of a floating steel insert flying off?
dude install a clutch masters alum. flywheel or fidizza (spelling? they are the same flywheel), or a UR flywheel.. you will have no probs.. and you probally wont have any props with the jun flywheel either.. maybe a some starter probs.. this topic has been beat to death but its good to hear evreyone's ideas.. i hope sun reads this topic.. as i am aware he is running a jun flywheel or at least i think he is as is another user; Spocko.. so i wonder if they have had probs with the jun flywheels.. as far as TODA i dont belive they have an h22 application..also is it just me or have you guys noticed a nice proliferation of h22 products to come out as late.. I THINK ITS GREAT
There is no "power boost" from just this mod alone.
i'm sure all of you studied calculus so you all know that rpms govern speed and acceleration.....so the higher the rpms, the torque you have on tap....so essentially the flywheel, as you guys say increases the speed at which the rpms increase....so the velocity of the acceleratation increases, which is the third derivative of the velocity graph...since accel is the second, and velocity of accel is its first.........so velocity MUST increase quicker.....since acceleration is increasing quicker..
If you get a flywheel you will never want heavy stock unit again.
They don't add h.p, but they do reduce weight and the amount of power it takes to spin the flywheel.
I noticed a 1-2/10th decrease in my 1/4 mile time with the CM 10 lb flywheel.
The only problem I had was that the first unit developed a warped center, where it rides on the drive shaft.
CM sent me a new unit that had a bearing in the center to prevent wear. While I waited on its arrival I drove around with a stock unit, and it felt so heavy and slow to spin up after having the lightweight unit!
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