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Now that I see the data-I can correct my offline response. Unless the car is an SH you are very far out of spec. You cannot go negative with the SH and do yourself any good at all. Both sides need to be within a very narrow range to each other (about 0.5 degrees). On a Base model such as mine the camber kit adjusted to +3.8 degrees on both sides, which is a good bit more positive than stock (but I'm lowered).
Spec's for the SH are much tighter and the only way the dealer (or anyone else for that matter) can really adjust it is with the laternate rods and a max of 2 shims. Base has shim adjustment only. My Specialty Products Camber kits (67135)have a range of /-1.5 degrees and can be set to correct Caster to a small degree.
Did you check the alignment using the stock wheels and tires?
I am beginning to wonder if there isn't something bent under your car. You may have to put it on a frame machine to properly inspect the mounting points among various possibilities. May I also add that the pull you describe is similar to that my GF had after her car was hit broadside in the right front fender-bending the wheel and damaging the rack and pinion unit. It was a parking lot wreck with no frame damage, but it never steered the same afterward-no matter what was done up to the time she traded it in (just keptfailing to keep toe-in). That example is part of the reason I would check very carefully underneath.
Want to continue offline, please do.
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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks 
'99 Prelude SS - A sweet song in motion SOLD 
'89 CRX Si= SCCA/NASA/PDA ITA #99
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab (4.7L)-gonna tow
Thanks to KONI, KIRK Racing, Longacre, UPRacing, Summit, Racing Electronics and my crew.
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