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Old 02-28-2002, 10:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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after I/H/E, without FI what is the next logical step?

I'm just looking for streetable power. It has to be reliable as I'm going to be driving it for at least 6 years . Oh yeah 99 sh. Sorry to the moderators, I'm just too lazy to search.
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Old 02-28-2002, 10:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: after I/H/E, without FI what is the next logical step?

Quote:
Originally posted by Donny_UGA
I'm just looking for streetable power. It has to be reliable as I'm going to be driving it for at least 6 years . Oh yeah 99 sh. Sorry to the moderators, I'm just too lazy to search.
pullies, clutch & light flywheel... these are the cheaper options... there are of course the more expensive NA power adder route.
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Old 02-28-2002, 10:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Upgraded ignition system
V-AFC
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Old 02-28-2002, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by D.K
Upgraded ignition system
V-AFC
Pullies, VAFC, ignition, fuel supplies, clutch, flywheel, etc
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Old 02-28-2002, 11:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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After I/H/E I would V-AFC, then maybe pullies if you'd like.

You can do clutch/flywheel when your stock one needs replacing.
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Old 02-28-2002, 11:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Cams, cam gears, port and polish.....
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Old 02-28-2002, 12:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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pullies, cam gears, vafc.
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Old 02-28-2002, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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does VAFC void the warenty.....? no matter what?
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Old 02-28-2002, 01:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Why does everybody talk about Ignition as a mod for NA cars. It doesn't do ANYTHING except give you good gas mileage and cleaner fuel burning. That's it - you'll get no power unless you're going Turbo, NOS or Supercharger. Regarding the V-AFC, its alright to get, but has to be dyno-tuned and only if its set perfectly will you get any power (5hp at the most). I say get pullies cause that is plain out the best mod for your money. Its cheap and effective. After the pullies I recommend, depending on mileage - get your valves adjusted. It gave me good power (not necessarily any extra power, but lost power that comes with engine wear and the valves, depending on driving will become loose and make your car slower). So after all that I would save my money and get Crower Stage 2 cams and either AEM or JUN Cam Gears. They are costly and so is the install, but the power that you will get from them will be a lot more than any other bolts you could buy. And after your clutch goes, just upgrade to the ClutchMasters Stage 3 clutch, which should give you great grip, without being too rough on you as a driver. I prefer to stay with the stock flywheel because aftermarket ones have a tendency to crack since they have to withstand a lot more stress since they're so thin and light. That's just my 2 cents. Happy luding...

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Old 02-28-2002, 02:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackLude98
Why does everybody talk about Ignition as a mod for NA cars. It doesn't do ANYTHING except give you good gas mileage and cleaner fuel burning. That's it - you'll get no power unless you're going Turbo, NOS or Supercharger.
First, it wasn't everybody...just me. Second, are you really saying that a cleaner, more powerful spark won't yield any HP on an N/A car? Where are you getting your info?
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Old 02-28-2002, 03:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ask anybody that runs a performance shop. I have good friends at Ultima Performance in Long Island, NY. They have a white supercharged s2000 that was on the cover of Honda Tuning magazine with the quote "Improving on Perfection." That's just to name one good shop with a good reputation. Well if you talk to anybody that knows a lot about cars and performance, they'll tell you that ignition doesn't yield any HP, and if it does it will be marginal - 1,2 Hp that you won't notice. It makes your engine burn cleaner and save you money on gas, agreed, but it won't make your 1/4 times go down or make your butt-dyno happy either.

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Old 02-28-2002, 03:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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What brand of pullies would you recommend?
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Old 02-28-2002, 03:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dickwitLUDE
What brand of pullies would you recommend?
Only AEM pullies
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Old 02-28-2002, 03:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackLude98
Ask anybody that runs a performance shop. I have good friends at Ultima Performance in Long Island, NY. They have a white supercharged s2000 that was on the cover of Honda Tuning magazine with the quote "Improving on Perfection." That's just to name one good shop with a good reputation. Well if you talk to anybody that knows a lot about cars and performance, they'll tell you that ignition doesn't yield any HP, and if it does it will be marginal - 1,2 Hp that you won't notice. It makes your engine burn cleaner and save you money on gas, agreed, but it won't make your 1/4 times go down or make your butt-dyno happy either.

~Alex
I have seen dyno plots where a decent amout of HP was yielded from the addition of an upgraded ignition system alone...granted, they weren't dyno plots of a Prelude, but they were dyno plots from an N/A engine. Even if a marginal 1-2 HP was yielded from an ignition system, it's still about the same as a marginal HP increase from an intake, exhaust, or header. Also, if ignition systems only gives you good gas mileage and cleaner fuel burning, why are they so dominate at the track? It's not for better MPG while you're running the quarter.
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Old 02-28-2002, 04:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Because at the track people run higher octanes, turbos, superhcargers and nos. They all need ignition because of the FI, but people that have a lot of bolt-on mods like cams and gears and pistons or raised compression, even though they're NA still need ignition because of the mods. A person with I/H/E/P wouldn't need an ignition and it wouldn't yield any gains.

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Old 02-28-2002, 04:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackLude98
Because at the track people run higher octanes, turbos, superhcargers and nos. They all need ignition because of the FI, but people that have a lot of bolt-on mods like cams and gears and pistons or raised compression, even though they're NA still need ignition because of the mods. A person with I/H/E/P wouldn't need an ignition and it wouldn't yield any gains.

~Alex
Yes, and there are people at the track without any FI, cams, or any serious engine work running ignition systems. You can check out the web sites and ads for the different ignition maunfacturers, and see that they claim their product will yield a power advantage over stock (what you read isn't always true, but in order to avoid fraudulent claims, they had to get at least some sort of power increase, as miniscule as it may be). It's pretty pointless to sit here and argue a point that neither one of us has any physical proof that would yield an answer in any direction, so I'm done. If any N/A Lude owners with ignition setups are reading this, please give us your comments.
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Old 02-28-2002, 07:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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AEM Pullies would be the next budgetable expense. VAFC to save for (Leaning out and modding vtec engagement). You all must be doctors and lawyers out there with the type of routes you suggest...
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Old 02-28-2002, 08:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike95lude
After I/H/E I would V-AFC, then maybe pullies if you'd like.

You can do clutch/flywheel when your stock one needs replacing.
When do the stock clutch/flywheel need replacement? my car is at 3k right now. When do I need to change?

Thanks
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Old 02-28-2002, 08:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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wellmy car is at 33k now but still running on stock clutch so u have a long way buddy. i owuld recommend you getting pullies then V-afc. If you got more money get some cam and gears but not just pullies
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Old 02-28-2002, 10:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I've gotta say thanx. I've gotten a lot of ideas out of this post. I'm thinking about the msd ignition and then probably the crower stage 2's after that. the msd may not add bhp but at least it'll give me better throttle response and better gas mileage. BTW how much do you think I'd make w/ the crower 2's?
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