5th gen smoking and revs wont accelerate - Honda Prelude Forum

c_elliott_c · 03-12-2010, 07:54 PM

98 5th gen smoke when i rev, and when i drive it for over 10 minutes it takes forever to accelerate. it revs really high when i try to accelerate. i have to do tireally slow

indylude18 · 03-12-2010, 08:04 PM

What color is the smoke? Is the check engine light on?

pIERCE · 03-13-2010, 04:48 PM

Do you have an auto?

c_elliott_c · 03-14-2010, 09:28 PM

it was an auto but the guy i bought it from put manual in it. and no the check engine light is on. its like the cars revs at really high rpm but the car just kinda putts. and i just put a new clutch in it.

bouckarooo · 03-14-2010, 10:09 PM

is the smoke blue or black or whitish grey??

c_elliott_c · 03-14-2010, 11:26 PM

the smoke is def oil. and it doesn't smoke when idling only when kinda racing through the gears. Tonight i drove it about 20 minutes very conservatively, i guess you could say. it drove just fine. so i think it only happens when im hot rodding it. i could stop rodding it but, thats why i bought a prelude and not a Taurus or something.
Sorry i meant to say the check engine light is not on.

pIERCE · 03-15-2010, 10:28 AM

Bad rings? Valve seals? Scored cylinder wall?

Try and do a compression check and/or a leakdown test.

c_elliott_c · 03-15-2010, 02:50 PM

ok i should have realized what it is doing earlier but its just not getting bad enough to where i could really feel it. but the clutch is slipping when its hot it catches great when is cold but after about 15 minutes like i said it slips really bad and needless to say the more i drive it the worse it gets. i was told that maybe the fluid has been contaminated and and when its heating up its expanding and not allowing the clutch to catch. anybody know any thing bout this.

indylude18 · 03-15-2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c_elliott_c

and i just put a new clutch in it.

Did you go easy on it for the break in period? If not, you glazed the clutch.

Seigisama · 03-15-2010, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indylude18

Did you go easy on it for the break in period? If not, you glazed the clutch.

Agreed Most Clutch manufactures suggest at least 500 miles of driving like an old maid. I know it's hard but otherwise you end up with a new clutch that works worse than your old one. I'm hoping your fluid and Clutch cylinders were replaced when the clutch was. The cylinders are cheap and fairly easy to do. Oh you might want to check the stroke on the clutch master cylinder. It's possible it is set wrong. If it is too far in you won't properly engage the clutch, and if it is too far out you will destroy the clutch.

c_elliott_c · 03-16-2010, 06:34 AM

i probably did i what do i do now?

indylude18 · 03-16-2010, 07:47 AM

If you glazed it, then you need to replace the clutch...again.

pIERCE · 03-16-2010, 11:07 AM

^^^Could you possibly have a machine shop resurface the clutch disk?

I have a feeling it may not be worth it, but it's worth asking.

ludeinsane · 03-16-2010, 05:09 PM

diablo de ke pais eres???

bouckarooo · 03-16-2010, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pIERCE

^^^Could you possibly have a machine shop resurface the clutch disk?

I have a feeling it may not be worth it, but it's worth asking.

the friction surface of a clutch is not metal and therefore cannot be machined. Most clutches use a composite carbon material(some of them will have little flecks of copper in it) and others use a ceramic compound. Neither is resurfacable.
your best bet is to buy a new clutch and break it in correctly. Do not go over 1/3 throttle and keep the car at and below 4000 rpm(maximum, when i break clutches in i wont go over 3500 rpm and i will take about 1000 mles to do so).