5th gen Prelude has mechanics stumped…ideas? - Honda Prelude Forum

GBL1 · 08-15-2011, 09:20 AM

Here's that facts...I tried to keep it simple...looking for ideas of what's wrong. I bet it's something simple, stupid, and easy to fix, but....

2000 Honda Prelude, base model w/ 5 spd manual – 121K miles

Recent tune-up (plugs, rotor, cap, wires, & fuel filter) replaced at 114K miles, v-tec solenoid cleaned out & new rubber gasket installed at 120K miles. Has slight oil leak & power steering leak to be addressed, as I’m able to do so.

Car ran perfect…passed state emissions test on Aug 3rd. Previously threw check engine light code for O2 sensor # 1…only when driving through heavy rain (wet connection?). Reset CEL after rain = no problems afterwards.

Took it in to a shop for timing belt service (I KNOW…recommended at 105K miles) & to have a performance header & catback exhaust installed…kept stock cat in place.

Got car back: ran funny & would not kick into v-tec at 5200 rpm…also had an exhaust leak at header/mid-pipe flange.

Had a Honda dealer tech drive car: he said it ‘may’ be ‘off’ by one timing belt tooth…to the exhaust side if it is.

Returned car to installation shop: they checked it over, said timing was dead spot on, but that two connectors underneath that control timing were plugged in, but not ‘snapped’ fully. Assumed it was just a loose connection. Car runs great now…except for exhaust leak and periodic check engine light coming on (assumed to be O2 sensor # 1).

Removed mid-pipe & determined that one stud was cross-threaded preventing a full, tight seal. Forced to drive car w/ open header for 2 miles during course of the repair…but did not “get on it” at all. Replaced stud & gasket…no more exhaust leak. Added an O2 ‘simulator’ (metal extender sleeve in between sensor & exhaust pipe) thinking that sensor was getting too much from now bigger header pipes.

Car runs & sounds GREAT now (nice deep tone hum to the exhaust) except for “occasional” (about 10% of the time) v-tec not kicking in…car just stutters & sputters at v-tec rev mark (5200 rpms). CEL now coming on regularly after 10-15 minutes of driving. Had code pulled…indicated “O2 sensor # 1: low voltage”. Likely needs to be by-passed or replaced now…

Drive car one mile away after getting code pulled: now stutters & sputters at various rpms…and dies. Car turns over but will not start….as if it’s out of gas, but it has half a tank full.

Waited approx. an hour: car started right up & revved fine. Ran for maybe 15 seconds, then died again…& will not restart. Waited a few more hours, tried again, got same results…car started right up & revved fine. Ran for maybe 5-10 seconds, then died again…& will not restart.

Pulled plugs: appear normal, no indication of fouling. Checked all connections, everything looks fine.

I, an auto mechanic student friend at UTI, his buddy…a mechanic, a current high school auto shop teacher (former tech at a car dealership), and various other auto-mechanically knowledgeable friends are all TOTALLY STUMPED…

ANY ideas from the audience???

indylude18 · 08-15-2011, 10:24 AM

Using a non-fouler on your primary O2 certainly isn't helping your situation. That sensor is used by the ECU to set your air/fuel ratios. The non-fouler will make the ECU think the engine is running extremely lean, so to compensate it will add more fuel and make it run way too rich. So rich that it won't start? Probably not...but still, it's not helping. That's where I would start.

GBL1 · 08-15-2011, 01:02 PM

I hear you, but it did run w/o the O2 simulator before I put it in, and it worked fine afterwards too. I can't see that taking it back out will make the whole difference...

I'm betting it's a fuel issue...

Kronn 98SH · 08-15-2011, 01:20 PM

First, you're not using an O2 simulator. You are using an non-fouler. A simulator is an electrical device that sends a constant "OK" voltage/signal to the ECU. Also, simulators and non-foulers are ONLY to be used on the secondary O2 sensor, not the primary.

Second, your issue could be fuel or spark. I just had a similar situation and the problem turned out to be a kinked/ripped plug wire that was arcing to the VC. So thoroughly inspect them.

Third, if your issue is fuel, I'd start with the filter. I know it was recently changed, but it's the cheapest/easiest component to test/replace.

GBL1 · 08-16-2011, 12:22 PM

I had to bite the bullet & let the dealership figure it out.

They're telling me that it's the ignitor and/or coil inside the distributor, sooooo...I NEED a complete distributor...including the internal ignitor & coil. It needs to be a known working unit that will fit my 2000 base model.

If ANYONE has one or knows where I can get one (new or used), let me know.

I can come pick it up today...

...I just need to find one asap so I can get her back driving.

George
214.629.1299 cell
972.233.0888 office

Kronn 98SH · 08-16-2011, 03:07 PM

I figured it was spark.

kadidle · 08-16-2011, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBL1

I had to bite the bullet & let the dealership figure it out.

They're telling me that it's the ignitor and/or coil inside the distributor, sooooo...I NEED a complete distributor...including the internal ignitor & coil. It needs to be a known working unit that will fit my 2000 base model.

If ANYONE has one or knows where I can get one (new or used), let me know.

I can come pick it up today...

...I just need to find one asap so I can get her back driving.

George
214.629.1299 cell
972.233.0888 office

all 5th gen preludes have an external coil, I would not just take the honda stealerships opinion because there techs are not any bettter than a private mechanic

Honda4Life · 08-16-2011, 03:16 PM

Ignition coil is seperate from the dist. #3 in this pic.

Part Detail

The igniter is inside the dist but can be gotten seperate from the dist. #7 in this pic.

Part Detail)

vman413 · 08-16-2011, 04:47 PM

hey yall im new to this and i cant figure out how to start a new thread? someone help