Ok i got a winter beater for the winter, now im gonna garage the Lude. Its a 2000 with a JDM Swap H22 and has an AEM V2 Intake And Custom Exaust. Now supposely i have a JRSC on the way but, havent hear on that for awhile. So one thing i dont want to do it go turbo, i want my car to run longer than a week...haha. OK I just am tired of turbo. I want it SuperCharged. So for sure im gonna get a JRSC whether or not i have to buy it straight from JR themselves. So What im asking you guys is im gonna have the car garaged for the winter, So about 4-5 Months. And im gonna start 2 full times. So all money will go to car or bills. So what should or could i get to make the lude running at 300whp? I havent dynoed it yet but i figured its at about 210whp right now, just a ruff estimate. Hes a list of the items im thinking of picking up:
-Jackson Racing SuperCharger
-Mugen Headers
-Type S Pistons
-ECU Upgrade (Im thinks a P28 with a Hondata S300. I hear about that most often)
-Maybe bigger Injectors (What Do you Think?)
So i dont know if i want to up the PSI in the Super yet. But Maybe about 9 sounds good if i do. So what Injectors do you think i will need? And are the Type S Pistons worth it? What others do you think ill need/should get? And What do you think about the Mugen Headers? I dont see anybody with them?! And what do you think it will run me for a good setup like this?
Thanks and hope you guys can help.
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On the Way: JRSC is on the way from japan. .
Looking For:P28 or P72 and S300, Mugen Headers
Sorry Newb Question, But will Type S Pistions and Rods 10:7:1 for A JDM H22a for the 92-96 Preludes work for the JDM H22a 5th Gens? And if so, what kinda of HP gain am i looking at?
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On the Way: JRSC is on the way from japan. .
Looking For:P28 or P72 and S300, Mugen Headers
I don't want to dissapoint you, but a JDM H22 with a CAI and exhaust won't put you up to 210.
As far as the pistons; the pistons themselves won't make anything; they just suck more air into the engine; allowing you to run higher boost levels (and burn more fuel)
the mods you listed; considering ideal circumstances, a reliable mechanic, and a good tuner, you will be looking at 250whp easily; but with the JRSC, 90% of the power comes from the tune; so it's hard to say exactly what you will end up with.
As for injectors; I've heard you can run the stock injectors with it; but 450cc injectors are a good upgrade. without a tune, they will cause you to run rich as snot; but after being tuned properly, they won't even make it to 3/4 duty cycle by 8k RPM.
As for the ECU; you hit the nail on the head; the p28(or p72) with an s300 is one of the better choices... but don't forget, there are tons of other choices out there- hunt down a tuner in your area first (THAT WILL STILL BE IN BUSSINESS NEXT YEAR), and ask him what he is most farmilure with... You might end up saving alot of money that way- Tuners charge by the hour; and if it takes him 5 hours to learn your system, you had best beleive he's gonna charge you for those 5 hours.
One other note- don't let anyone convince you to loose the rev limiter... H22's with stock internals don't fare well over 8k rpm.
Yeah BetaTron got that one right, I'm not sure if you were kidding about wanting it to run more than a week or not, but if you run type S pistons with any form of forced induction you will A. assuming you can get your hands on some race fuel to handle the ridiculous compression, you will make some mad power. and B. blow a head gasket if not throw a rod. definately skip the type s pistons, even opt for some low compression pistons (gotta go quality here) to keep it reliable. then you won't need crazy high octane fuel and run safely. your call though
^not necessarily true. Don't know why you bumped this old thread just to say something like that but nowadays, you can safely run high compression + boost.
Look at this way, a s54 runs 11.5 to 1 compression and can still be safely boosted, active autowerks has a kit and has had good results.
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"I am a ricer because I have Z3 fenders" Bless Her Heart ORG
[QUOTE=petern101;2954881]^not necessarily true. Don't know why you bumped this old thread just to say something like that but nowadays, you can safely run high compression + boost. /QUOTE]
don't use forums alot didn't know i was kickin up old dust, according to you're statement something magical has happened which removes the increased pressure generated, or a new way to handle this pressure, of boosting high compression. if you're aware of new technology i'm not i'd like to know about it, however unless the unmentioned idea of building the motor up first gets done, your ****s gonna blow
^not necessarily true. Don't know why you bumped this old thread just to say something like that but nowadays, you can safely run high compression + boost.
Look at this way, a s54 runs 11.5 to 1 compression and can still be safely boosted, active autowerks has a kit and has had good results.
With a good tuner you can safely run high boost. My tuner has a 11.5cr forged piston in a b16 motor with cams and turbo and it makes really good power and is a reliable daily driver. The only concern he has is the amount of heat generated by the smaller turbo he uses for the quick spool up.
would the stock type s piston handle the boost and the possible detonation with out losing the compression through leaks in the rings? One would think you would have to get new rings that are better than oem therefore requiring you to resleeve the block? I am pretty sure becuase the composition of the sleeve you will need to resleeve so the rings work, that is where the honda aliminum ceramic is is in the sleeves. Also, is your h22 jdm block a close deck or open? what year did the engine come from?
what exactly do you hope to tune to keep the rods from bending under extreme compression... run it lean as hell? advances in the internal combustion engine can't "confuse physics" into thinking less force is being applied to your bottom end. unless you forgot to mention the engine had at least a forged bottom end theres just no way around it. i suppose if you'd like to retard the timing so much that the piston is past tdc when it gets fired, but now we're talking losing some serious power, defeating the whole idea of sticking with high compression. in short, any internal combustion engine is only as good as it's weakest link, literally.
Stock rods can handle 300whp. People NOS stock H22s all the time and the only weak link are the piston rings.
Mahle makes forged pistons that are compatible with FRM sleeves so there is no need to re-sleeve. Because they're forged it makes them good for boost applications.
High compression does not bend rods a bad tune does.
I'm sorry, I didn't catch in there where tuning can relieve the bottom end of the force? Your going besides the point, H22 internals, not simply the rods, can withstand 350hp, so why not just rock 300 hp? This guy wants reliability also, anything under greater stress will create more wear, decreasing the motors strength. I really am interested to hear how you plan to tune it for better reliability, instead of using "tune", give me some examples of what you plan to do. Please stay away from "less boost" because this is really just senseless as the whole topic is about being able to boost high compression. As I said earlier, don't get me wrong, I really enjoy learning new things, so if you got a secret tuning process flip your cards.
rReally if you want to boost the h22 you really need to assess how far a build to go. As a rule a fully built engine needs to be torn down every third season; this is to replace the seals and rings and bearing and what not and to make sure there is no damage or wear and if there is you can reapir it and make sure it does not continue. SO, with that said you need to find how much do you want to spend and when do you plan to perform maintance? Then decide if you want to resleeve and run high boost, the higher the boost the increased risk of damage if a failure occurs; power cost losts of money, it is not something that you can go cheap one really, your engine will only be as strong as its weakestpart is. To run a correct setup with a high boost like 20 psi+ you should resleeve and replace all components with spec. ready replacements. Think, piston rings, sleeves, pistons, rods, bearings, all of these things need to be in par with each other in accordance with what you desire(how much boost, compression, ecu management, ignition and cam timing, fuel delivery and tempurature, oil pressure, cooling...the list goes on but the point is the whole car needs to be built to utilize the power, that is the beauty of Honda, little tiny four bangers that pump out power numbers like big boys...i love them.
I'd suggest reading the FI forum and ignoring most of what's been posted in here, I've seen a lot of assumptions and lots of distorted facts. The best way to start is to set a goal and then research what makes the most sense to you to accomplish that goal. The person looking to do minimal internal mods and make some reliable HP is going to be much different then the person that wants 400hp at the wheels.
Your going to need alot more than that short list to make 300whp with a JR Supercharger.
Hytech or SMSP header for SC application (no the Mugen wont do)
3" Exhaust
at least 9psi so upgraded pulley
Larger injectors (at least 550CCs) I run 1000CCs
Fuel Pump
ECU
and most important is the tune.
With this you will realistically be looking at around 250-260WHP
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