2000 Prelude Timing belt done and other work, do you think I was charged accordingly?
Well I just got my timing belt done and a few other things, I was charged $950 labour, I supplied all the parts except for the fluids.
Below is a list of things I got done, do you think the pricing was fair?
Timing Belt Job
Timing belt
AC/Alternator belt
Balancer belt
Power Steering belt
Water Pump
Auto to manual tensioner swap
Crank Seal, Cam Shaft Seals, Front Balance Seal
Valve cover gasket and tube seals
Cam Plug
Valve adjustment
Other seals I had changed
Vtec Solenoid Gasket
Distributor oil ring
Oil Cooler O-ring
Other work I had done/parts that were changed
drain and fill ATF
flush brake fluid
drain power steering fluid
drain radiator fluid
change oil (synthetic)
Distributor cap
rotor
fuel filter
rear brakes (pads and rotors)
spark plugs
wires
thermostat
pcv valve
I was abit disappointed regarding a few things: 1. The mechanic forgot to install the Balance Shaft Retaining Clip, hopefully the Balance Seal doesn't pop out in the future.(he used Hondabond on the seal, I think it should be fine) When I mentioned it to him he had already installed the new timing belt, I guess the clip had to be put on before getting the timing belt on??
2. The mechanic said the Oil Pressure switch I bought was the incorrect part for my Lude, after double checking the part number (37240-PT0-014) it seems to be correct. I'll be going back tomorrow and asking if he can install it on my next oil change.
3. While changing the Oil cooler 0-ring he wasn't able to tell where the Oil filter base gasket (15205-P5P-000) went. (I know they're in the same area)
Can anyone provide me a link, this way I can tell him exactly where it is, I'll probably print him out a picture.
anyways, thanks for reading and any help advice would be greatly appreciated.
wow, considering the things he doesnt know or didnt do i think you overpaid allot. Like is this guy a certified mechanicky? It doesnt seem so if he cannot get the oil cooler oring on. You need to remove the oil filter housing and the oring goes behind it.
As for the pressure switch, it is easy to figure out which on is which, just look the one on there and sompare it to the one you have. I know the fourth and fifthe gen ones are different. As for the parts you supplied were they all oem honda parts?
wow, considering the things he doesnt know or didnt do i think you overpaid allot. Like is this guy a certified mechanicky? It doesnt seem so if he cannot get the oil cooler oring on. You need to remove the oil filter housing and the oring goes behind it.
As for the pressure switch, it is easy to figure out which on is which, just look the one on there and sompare it to the one you have. I know the fourth and fifthe gen ones are different. As for the parts you supplied were they all oem honda parts?
hey Bouck
He seemed to know what he was doing, his boss wasn't there at the time.
You misunderstood me, he changed the Oil cooler 0-ring but wasn't able to find out where the Oil Filter base gasket goes, I found a picture (link below), I'll print it out and show him where it's located. Oil Sending unit on SH - Honda-Tech (post6)
As for the oil pressure switch I'll bring it by tomorrow and tell him it's definately the correct part and see if he can install it.
Did you even change the rear balance gear case o-ring? They leak first out of all 5 seals in the timing area. Why did you change the power steering fluid? The only time Honda even says to do it is if the rack is changed, even the instructors at the Honda training center say not to change it.
You can always add the front balance shaft seal retainer at a later time but the lower timing cover will have to be removed but the belt does not.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
As for the pressure switch, it is easy to figure out which on is which, just look the one on there and sompare it to the one you have. I know the fourth and fifthe gen ones are different.
Actually he was correct, I bought the wrong oil pressure switch (part number 34240-PT0-014)That one I got was for the SH model.
I have a base Automatic Prelude, I needed part number 37240-P13-013.
Quote:
Originally Posted by minilogoguy18
Did you even change the rear balance gear case o-ring? They leak first out of all 5 seals in the timing area. Why did you change the power steering fluid? The only time Honda even says to do it is if the rack is changed, even the instructors at the Honda training center say not to change it.
You can always add the front balance shaft seal retainer at a later time but the lower timing cover will have to be removed but the belt does not.
hey Mini, I know your going to be abit frustrated when I tell you the answer because you've been saying/helping me out all along. The answer is No, he didn't change that seal (part number 15114-PT0-003). He said something like "he'd have to loosen the bolt from the back in order to get the seal out and that may cause a vibration in the car in the future.
Power Steering fluid
I figured because I'm doing all this work and it's never been done before I might as well change it.
Balance Shaft Retainer
So all that has to be done is remove the lower timing belt cover and by doing that the Retainer can still be installed. None of the accessory belts have to be taken off, crank pulley remains untouched, etc.
No, the outer belts will have to be taken off along with the crank pulley but anyone who is good with those cars can do that very quickly, especially in a shop with a lift and air tools.
The rear balance o-ring is so easy to replace, 2 bolts and 1 nut on the case, the rear bolt to access the shaft is just to stick a screwdriver in to keep the rear balance shaft in time. He should have replaced it, you just went through all that to not replace the most common leaking seal.
If you have an auto then that seal you are talking about for the oil filter base isn't even on your engine, that's SH only.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
No, the outer belts will have to be taken off along with the crank pulley but anyone who is good with those cars can do that very quickly, especially in a shop with a lift and air tools.
The rear balance o-ring is so easy to replace, 2 bolts and 1 nut on the case, the rear bolt to access the shaft is just to stick a screwdriver in to keep the rear balance shaft in time. He should have replaced it, you just went through all that to not replace the most common leaking seal.
If you have an auto then that seal you are talking about for the oil filter base isn't even on your engine, that's SH only.
hey Mini
thanks for all your help, I'll go see him in the next few days and ask him if he can install the retainer.
As for the rear balance 0-ring I'll mention to him if it begins to leak in the future he'll be responsible to replace the part/cover the labour free of charge.
FWIW...I just had my timing belt/water pump changed recently. Parts and labor cost me $390 +tax (timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, coolant) at Hamilton Honda in NJ.
They recommended the valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket, new plugs, new distributer cap for an additional $330. I passed and will have my mechanic friend take care of those items at 100k miles.
^Yeah it was so cheap cause you probably didn't change any seals and I'm sure the balance belt was done or at least I hope so. You're going to be just like the last person I helped out with a timing belt, all their seals started leaking, ruined the belt and they had to pay all over again to get it fixed.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
FWIW...I just had my timing belt/water pump changed recently. Parts and labor cost me $390 +tax (timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, coolant) at Hamilton Honda in NJ.
They recommended the valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket, new plugs, new distributer cap for an additional $330. I passed and will have my mechanic friend take care of those items at 100k miles.
thats super cheap, you guys from the States really have it good.
Here where I'm located, Toronto, Canada, the dealer will replace the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, and coolant for a mere $1049.14 plus 13%tax.
Rear brakes, just labour $217.65 plus tax. add another $59.44 if you want you parking brake adjusted.
Thermostat change (parts and labour) $176.73 plus tax.
Fuel filter (parts and labour) $161.81 plus tax.
^Don't pay for a parking brake adjustment on a car with disc brakes, it really isn't necessary, only if you have drums. Once you replace the rear pads they'll just have to back adjust it.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Mini is right, the balancer seal is mostly responsible for leaks in the timing area.
If any of those seals leak on to the belts, you get to buy all new belts and pay labor again.
I would have had him do a ATF flush with the ss tranny, btw are you saving up for a 5spd swap?
$950 for the work he did seems fine. I really don't know because I do the work myself, maybe I need to charge myself labor lol.
The ATF was drained already.
If I was planning on doing a 5spd swap I wouldn't have did any work to the car, I would've drove it until either the engine o tranny died and then do he swap.
After thinking about it $950 labour only isn't all that bad when you compare it to what the dealer charges.
I seen that ATF was drained, however a flush involves drain, fill, drive 10miles, repeat 3 times.
The auto in my car did not even give me any warning that it was dying. I changed the fluid not more then 10k ago and it looked clean and clear. Solenoids were clear and functioning. Then one day I was driving to six flags and bam it starts acting up throwing it self in to the gears and now its dead.
Just keep in mind that you shold save for a swap. Wouldn't make since in not fixing/up keeping the engine before somthing dies. My engine runs great becuase I keep on top of it and all I have to worry about now is getting this dead trans off and swapping my manual in.
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'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed*
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
I seen that ATF was drained, however a flush involves drain, fill, drive 10miles, repeat 3 times.
The auto in my car did not even give me any warning that it was dying. I changed the fluid not more then 10k ago and it looked clean and clear. Solenoids were clear and functioning. Then one day I was driving to six flags and bam it starts acting up throwing it self in to the gears and now its dead.
Just keep in mind that you shold save for a swap. Wouldn't make since in not fixing/up keeping the engine before somthing dies. My engine runs great becuase I keep on top of it and all I have to worry about now is getting this dead trans off and swapping my manual in.
I wouldn't flush any Honda ATF tranny, if I would consider doing that there's an easier way. Unclip the 2 hoses for the tranny, get 2 extension hoses (one for each) one will go into a jug of clean tranny fluid, the other hose will go into an empty jug/drain pan, start the car, as soon as you see the fluid emptying out into the drain pan get nice and red stop the car and put eveything back together. prcedure is very similar like when your flushing the PS fluid.
As for the 5spd swap, I'm in no way close to being a car buff but I don't think you can use an automatic base engine with a 5 spd tranny, you can't just pop in the tranny.
you'll need to buy a 5spd engine, 5 spd tranny, and many other things.
All you need is a transmission that will bolt to the h22 block, engine is the same. Basically all "M" series trans fill attach with no manipulation.
Then you need a new starter, clutch pedal, brake pedal, clutch slave & master, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, manual shaft, shifter & wires, and some wiring.
Either way your both wrong because Honda strongly advises AGAINST flushing any auto transmission by any means, you either take care of it properly or suffer the consequence of replacing it, simple as that. It doesn't matter how pretty your fluid looked after flushing or if all solenoids checked out it's the fact that old fluid was left in there for too long and the clutches wore, old thick fluid was removed, new slick thin fluid added and bam, ****s slipping.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
All you need is a transmission that will bolt to the h22 block, engine is the same. Basically all "M" series trans fill attach with no manipulation.
Then you need a new starter, clutch pedal, brake pedal, clutch slave & master, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, manual shaft, shifter & wires, and some wiring.
OP, I've been quoted between $475-$1100 for a complete timing belt job, and some of those shops were using non-oem parts in their quote. But labor alone, that is 3x as expensive as it should have been. Most Honda dealerships quoted me shy under $800 for labor + oem parts. Cheapest I've found is $600, but that's a friend discount. That pricing was overkill.
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