ccmahal

So, pending confirmation from minilogoguy18 ref steering boot replacement, I am at the change of the tie rod and steering boot. Will post again once complete.

Thanks a bunch guys, I really appreciate the comments and suggestions.

ccmahal

So far no response. I have editied in some RefBack Links to help explain the choices I made to solve the tire problems the 98 is having and since it's raining outside and will be for a couple of days I thought I would offer some lessons learned with some pics.

I was not able to find the forums that refered to some of the problems I mention but such as life...

1. Using the impact driver to remove screws is a technique I learned in the 70's working on motorcycles. I have owned one every since because it will allow you to remove screws without damaging them when they are installed with greater torque than can be applied by using a screw driver. Not very expensive, available at auto parts stores, mine cost $10 about 10 years ago, and easy to use. Choose a bit and install the bit in the holder, select the direction you want to apply torque, holding the driver in one hand insert the bit in the screw and using the other hand strike the impact driver end with a hammer. Simple!

Here is were I would have placed a picture but it appears I don't know how to insert an image in this forum. Sorry about that!

2. If you plan to remove the drive axel nut for any of a mirade of reasons...

a. Take it to someone who has an air driven impact wrench large enough to loosen the nut, then tighten it just enough to get the vehicle back home for home repairs. (this is where I would refer to another forum to give credit - this not my idea but the results seem sound)

b. If you plan to loosen the nut yourself, after you make that decision loosen the nut right after you remove the wheel/tire assy. This will preclude you from having the trouble I had with the CV drive axel. While I am sure a significantly large enough impact wrench would have done the job at any point in my project, I did not have one available to me so I used the massive torque apperatus (36mm socket, Kobalt 1/2 drive breaker bar, 1 inch by 3 foot black pipe cheater bar) hereafter refered to as MTA

c. Removal of the brake rotor may have not been required for any of this operation, both ball joints and the tie rod end could have been removed then the hub puller appplied to get the steering knuckle off the car, this is required to replace the lower ball joint. Since the op went as it did, I will adjust as required when I attempt the right side.

d. But I think I will still use the MTA but apply it after wheel/tire removal, if necessary the hammer/chisel loosening drill, followed by MTA. Much cheaper than $400 bucks and it is recommended you replace the nuts each time you remove them so the damage caused by the hammer/chisel will go un-noticed by the trash can......

3. If anyone can give some advice on how to post pics instead of attachment links, please give me a post. Not only would I like to achieve the previously mentioned goals I would also like to provide useful info for others.

ccmahal

1. Replacement of the CV drive axle. How do I get the inner portion that is attached to the bracket mounted on the front of the engine removed so I can replace the CV drive axle.

Forum discussing CV joint: Left CV Axle Removal

2. Trunk leaks and water gets into the left rear seat and floor board. Has anyone had this problem. I think this may be coming from drainage running down the trunk channel between the sheet metal and rear tail light assy and through the holes where the attachment studs come through the sheet metal. That would explain the water in the spare tire well, but not the rear seat and floor board. Suggestions please..............

nsbsalt

I used clear silicon where the top of the tail light meets the body to stop the leak, when you break the water still has momentum and splashes into the rear seat area. I'm pretty sure this problem has been covered before try searching for a more explained version.

ccmahal

I would greatly appreciate any info you can provide, thanks. Mold, mildew, and rust suck!

Found a forum discussing trunk and cabin leaks:

How to Fix Water Leaks In Trunk and Passenger Side Floor

ccmahal

Wow, it pays to go and talk with the pros. Found a great resource on Fort Hood yesterday. They have a computer at the auto hobby shop that has ALLDATA REPAIR. I now have in possession a set of actual how to step by step blow by blow instructions for removal of the Axle Shaft, Installation of the Axle Shaft, and R&R of the wheel bearings. Not only that, they have a complete set of tools for working with hydraulic presses and lifts, so no more bending down and trying to work on something 6 inches off the ground, oh and automotive pros who actually have some idea about what they are doing and impart that info without regard to the tranny in your vehicle - Exceptional!!

How do you get the driver's side CV joint/Axle Shaft off the center bearing support and intermediate shaft.

The intermediate shaft has a set ring that holds the Axle Shaft and intermediate shaft together. The instructions recommend modifying a flat tip screw driver by grinding down the tip so it is flat on the first 7mm of it's taper and 3.5mm thick from the tip through that first 7mm. Place the screw driver between the inboard axle CV joint (the large cup shaped piece) and the bearing support and pry the driveshaft assy to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Another technique supplied by the pros was to use a chisel to accomplish the separation by driving the chisel into the same space as you would otherwise place the screwdriver, then apply a prybar to continue separation of the two drive shafts.

Now BOYS, that's how you answer a question! Thanks go out to Gary and all the PROS at Fort Hood Auto Hobby!!!

ccmahal

BFH - That's all it takes! The instructions indicated that a modified screw driver is what was needed to separate the left drive shaft from the intermediate shaft. Once I was down there looking again, two things became obvious.

1. The intermediate shaft and bearing support that I had indicated were on the front of the engine are actually on the rear of the engine and.........

2. The screw driver and chisel technique I had refered to may only work on the right (passenger's side) side drive axle. I will let ya know when my projects take me over there.

What I used to get that large cup shaped piece off the drive axle was a BIG FLANKIN' HAMMER! The 4lb sledge previously mentioned. The instructions did give me good info on how the pieces fit together and armed with that knowledge I decided to rap that sucker a couple of times and off it came easy as you please.

I learned a couple of things I want to share........

1. To change the upper control arm bushings apparently you have to buy a complete arm assy which includes arm, bushings, and ball joint. I made my purchase at O'Reilly's for about $90 (lifetime warranty).

2. I can purchase the lower control arm bushings from Honda parts online for about $20 but no warranty. The bushings at O'Reilly were about $75 (lifetime warranty), way to much for MOOG bushings but I did want the lifetime warranty. After a trip to the Fort Hood Sprocket Auto Hobby Shop and $10 I had new bushings in the lower arm. The wishbone bushing was deformed and cracked so I replaced them both. Also, the lower control arm was available complete with new bushings for around $109 - $113 (lifetime warranty).

3. I was going to replace the hub bearing but it didn't seem to need it and since the warranty was only 3 months to 3 years, I decided to wait. Now that I know how to remove the pieces, making that repair as required won't be a big deal.

Presently I am waiting on the upper control arm and the rack and pinion bellow and once they arrive I will go back together with this sucker. Once complete I will be off to the AAFES Firestone on post to get me a free alignment check and see if I all is right with the left front wheel well.

ccmahal

Welp, here's the tally.

Upper Control Arm $74.99 + $12.99 Shipping = $87.98
Lower Control Arm Bushings Inboard $19.94, Outboard $53.32 = $73.26
Lower Ball Joint $13.99
Drivers Side CV Axle Came with Spindle Nut $68.59
Spindle Nuts $11.75
Tie Rod End $44.99
Bellow Kit $16.99
Anti-Seize $3.49

1" x 36" Black Pipe Cheater Bar $13.67
36mm Spindle Nut Socket $19.99
1/2 Inch Drive Impact Socket Set $19.99
Chisels and 4lb Sledge $32.99
Machine Shop Charge for Lower Arm Bushings $10.00

Total $417.68

Now for the Unbelievable part -- The only change made in camber on the left front was to go from -1.9 degrees to -2.0 degrees which is -0.1 degree worse than before. The range I was hoping for was -1.0 to +1.0 degrees. Unbelievable!!!