^If it has the auto tensioner it shouldn't be too tight unless whoever changed it for you did something wrong. I know when my rear balance shaft spun a bearing and seized up I could hear a whine before I took the belt out because it shredded the teeth where the crank was and the crank gear was just rubbing against a bare belt.
I've asked so many people that have been working at the dealer way longer than me if they have ever seen a prelude come in with a failed auto tensioner and they said never, just one here or there that was leaking when they did the belt and they of course replaced it. I have a feeling that most of the auto tensioner problems out there were caused by the person who owned or worked on the car.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Wanted to add something i just did this remember to put the crank pully back on properly there are mucho problems with those.... and nobody should ever put an autozone timing belt or balanceing belt on EVER they break verry eazy 40 to 60k at the most. Ive seen factory belts go well over 200k... worth the extra 50 bucks If your goona use an autozone timing belt why by honda MTF for tranny just go get some gear oil or 10-30 see what happens....lol
__________________
98 prelude base standard, 94 300zx tt 780 rwhp, 53 chevy 386 stroker 500hp, 97 t100 bagged and body dropped, 03 esclade custom, 08xz6r,06 cbr600rr, 06 sv1000, harley bobber evo, 92 gmc bagged gullwing doors, boats, jetskis, dirtbikes, 4wheelers.... I have lots of crap my wife really must love me HUH...
pIERCE, that o-ring is behind a gear casing for the rear balance shaft, it is the most common leaker of the 5 behind the timing belt. angeloaa, the crank seal you are getting is correct.
How hard is that to replace? I'm having trouble imagining it's location.
^If it has the auto tensioner it shouldn't be too tight unless whoever changed it for you did something wrong. I know when my rear balance shaft spun a bearing and seized up I could hear a whine before I took the belt out because it shredded the teeth where the crank was and the crank gear was just rubbing against a bare belt.
I've asked so many people that have been working at the dealer way longer than me if they have ever seen a prelude come in with a failed auto tensioner and they said never, just one here or there that was leaking when they did the belt and they of course replaced it. I have a feeling that most of the auto tensioner problems out there were caused by the person who owned or worked on the car.
im going to go take my car tomorrow to see if theres anything wrong (obviously there is) and i'll let u guys know. my car does have the auto tensioner but i think its making that noise because its not an OEM belt... idk thats what i was told. hopefully i can just get it fixed so i dont have to worry about taking it to a specialist...
im going to go take my car tomorrow to see if theres anything wrong (obviously there is) and i'll let u guys know. my car does have the auto tensioner but i think its making that noise because its not an OEM belt... idk thats what i was told. hopefully i can just get it fixed so i dont have to worry about taking it to a specialist...
I'm not sure if this is correct but after the member changed to the older model belt the whining stopped.
my prelude is a 2000. i went to the honda dealer not that long ago and asked for the part number for the timing belt. they gave me a print out with the part number for my model years timing belt and balancer timing belt.
the timing belt number is part# 14400-P13-014 and the balance belt is part#13405-PT0-004.
How hard is that to replace? I'm having trouble imagining it's location.
Is this it? 15114-PT0-003
Yeah that's the one, it's really easy, just 2 bolts and 1 nut all using a 12mm socket, super easy. The only one I find tough is the front balance shaft just because using a socket to press it in is tough because of the location, it's easy to F up from pressing it in unevenly. The rest aren't bad, you just make sure they are like 2mm recessed into the engine and that's as far as you want to push them in. One thing that can help is using a 1/4" extension and tapping all around it little by little to get it in evenly, just lightly tap it though so you don't damage it.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Last edited by minilogoguy18; 05-24-2011 at 06:36 PM.
Yeah that's the one, it's really easy, just 2 bolts and 1 nut all using a 12mm socket, super easy. The only one I find tough is the front balance shaft just because using a socket to press it in is tough because of the location, it's easy to F up from pressing it in unevenly. The rest aren't bad, you just make sure they are like 2mm recessed into the engine and that's as far as you want to push them in. One thing that can help is using a 1/4" extension and tapping all around it little by little to get it in evenly, just lightly tap it though so you don't damage it.
hey Mini
that part#15114-PT0-003 that Pierce is talking about isn't a pefectly round gasket like the Crank Seal is it? Doesn't that gasket go near the oil pump?
It's for the rear balance shaft gear case, it's just an o-ring and it's one of the 5 that they will replace if you go to the dealer and get the timing belt done. Look in the service manual for rear balance shaft removal to see how that metal case comes off, it's bolted to the oil pump.
That thread isn't giving good advice on the seals, the person in it is saying only replace the seals if they look bad which is stupid. Just recently someone on these boards did that and they ended up having to get the timing belt and everything replaced all over again because 2 of them started leaking. Oil on the t-belt will ruin it.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Last edited by minilogoguy18; 05-25-2011 at 06:59 AM.
It's for the rear balance shaft gear case, it's just an o-ring and it's one of the 5 that they will replace if you go to the dealer and get the timing belt done. Look in the service manual for rear balance shaft removal to see how that metal case comes off, it's bolted to the oil pump.
That thread isn't giving good advice on the seals, the person in it is saying only replace the seals if they look bad which is stupid. Just recently someone on these boards did that and they ended up having to get the timing belt and everything replaced all over again because 2 of them started leaking. Oil on the t-belt will ruin it.
that O-ring seal for the rear balance shaft gear case doesn't look completely round when compared to the distributor O-ring. I'm thinking just because it's called a O-ring seal doesn't mean it has to be round?
Like you told me before the 5 seals that should be changed in the timing belt area are:
Crank Seal
Front balance Seal (also a good idea to install the retainer)
Camshaft Seals (2 of them)
Cam Plug (OEM or aftermarket Golden Eagle)
O-ring seal (rear balance gear case) link below: Honda Oil Pump Gasket
So I'll have to remove the balance shafts to replace that seal or no?
No you just remove the gears which is easy, for the front you'll see a hole where you can stick a screwdriver in to hold the shaft still while you undo the bolt and I already explained the rear.
Just because it's called an o-ring doesn't mean its perfectly round. The cam plug is totally different and is not replaced with the timing belt, it's on the opposite side of the head.
__________________
New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Just because it's called an o-ring doesn't mean its perfectly round. The cam plug is totally different and is not replaced with the timing belt, it's on the opposite side of the head.
Makes sense.
I realize the Plug is in a completely different place. After reading over my last post the 5 seals are:
Crank
Cam Shaft (2 of them)
Front balance
O-ring (rear gear case)
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
they break verry eazy 40 to 60k at the most. Ive seen factory belts go well over 200k... worth the extra 50 bucks 
If your goona use an autozone timing belt why by honda MTF for tranny just go get some gear oil or 10-30 see what happens....lol
Linear Mode
