okay so my lude just hit her 105 bday. and shes making a sound near the water pump. ive got the new water pump and timing belt. do i need to replace the thermostat? and what else? and is there any write up on how to do all this? cause im gonna try thanks guys
You also should replace the balance shaft belt, cam seals, crank seal, front balance shaft seal and rear balance gear o-ring, OEM parts only, don't wanna cheap out and something fail.
Also good to replace valve cover gasket 12030-P13-000 and outer belts since they have to come off anyway.
You'll also need the tool from Honda to compress the tensioner 14540-P13-003
There are a few sites out there hosting the factory service manual (Helms manual) download that and use it to replace the belt. You're gonna need a floor jack to put the side motor mount back in as well as an impact gun or the Honda crank pulley tool.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
In addition to what has been said above, get the balance shaft seal retainer kit from Honda. I would also advise to convert over to a manual tensioner. It replaces the auto tensioner which has a reputation of failing without warning.
You also should replace the balance shaft belt, cam seals, crank seal, front balance shaft seal and rear balance gear o-ring, OEM parts only, don't wanna cheap out and something fail.
Hey Mini, as you already know I'm in the same position as the OP. As for the part numbers you listed, I guess Honda has various part numbers for the Crank Seal, dimensions for the seal are the same. (40x52x7)
13405-PT0-004 Balancer Belt
91213-PR3-004 x2 Cam Shaft Seals
15114-PT0-003 rear balance gear o-ring
91212-PT0-003 Crank Seal (apparently this part was superseded by 91212-P0A-004, Is part #91212-PAA-A01 identical?
Honestly, the cam shaft seals really don't need to be replaced. From my experience, if it doesn't leak, don't fiddle with it.
However, seals that are notorious to walk out or leak, I would recommend replacing. Also Angeloaa, it is imperative that you install the balance shaft seal retainer, as that seal has a tendency to walk out over time!
Last edited by HondaGuy1212; 05-16-2011 at 09:51 PM.
^They can leak and I've seen them leak but the others are usually more common.
pIERCE, that o-ring is behind a gear casing for the rear balance shaft, it is the most common leaker of the 5 behind the timing belt. angeloaa, the crank seal you are getting is correct.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Do you know how sensitive having a good timing belt is? I wouldn't buy a cheap t-belt from them, you need to take it back and buy all genuine Honda parts. Their water pumps are garbage too, seen people use them and they start leaking in no time as well as the propellers inside rust.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
If I have to go aftermarket for the T-belt, it's going to be Gates. I wouldn't get near Autozone "duralast" belts with a ten foot pole. If you can afford all those custom LED lights on your car, a $50 Honda belt isn't going to hurt you.
^You don't need to replace any bolts or the thermostat.
91212-PT0-003 OIL SEAL (40X52X7) (NOK)
91233-PT0-003 OIL SEAL (27X40X8) (NOK) <-- these 2 are the same, 1 just replaces the other, not sure which is the current one.
The stopper is the tensioner compressor, just make sure before you remove the bolt from the bottom that you don't tilt it and spill the oil that is inside. Helps to have a vise to hold the tensioner but only by the long boss that has 1 of the bolt holes as the screw has good tension.
You should also get the power steering pump belt, you could though skip out on the belts if yours are new, it's just easy to replace since they have to come off anyway.
Just follow the helms manual and if it's your first time take your time with it and make sure not to press the seals too far in, look at the old ones before you pull them out. Oh and one thing I don't think the manual will mention is break the cam gear bolts loose with the t-belt still on, makes it easier, tighten them once the belt is back on and timing is correct.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
I'd order the parts from Import Replacement Parts | Import Performance & OEM Parts and use preludeonline as a coupon code. I've bought 2 T-belt kits with manual tensioner conversion kits from that site and haven't had any issues
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^The problem with that is that too many people are buying a manual tensioner when they really don't need it, the only time you need it is if you run larger cams. I still only trust OEM t-belts, they designed the engine, they know how to make a belt that will keep the motor precision timed and I have seen them last well beyond their recommended replacement limit.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
^The problem with that is that too many people are buying a manual tensioner when they really don't need it, the only time you need it is if you run larger cams. I still only trust OEM t-belts, they designed the engine, they know how to make a belt that will keep the motor precision timed and I have seen them last well beyond their recommended replacement limit.
Might be true, but you hear stories about the auto tenisonor failing and when that fails, you risk your motor pretty much being toast. Some people are luck and they don't bend valves, but there are those who aren't as lucky. I've seen 2 motors have their auto tenisonor fail on them, 1 guy was lucky nothing happened since he wasn't really going fast, but the other guy had to get a new motor.
I definitely agree with getting the OEM belt itself, cause that's all I run with both of my cars and especially for something major like this.
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94 Prelude-VTEC status
i got my water pump and timing belt changed not too long ago and my car is making a "woo woo woo woo woo" sound at idle and a super charger whine when i accelerate... this is because the timing belt is too tight right? or is it something else...
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Last edited by dvtec55; 05-21-2011 at 09:24 PM.
Reason: typo
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