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Old 11-01-2001, 08:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cylinder Sleeving

What exactly is the process of slleving the block? What exactly is done? If anyone has any before and after shots of their block, that would be good. I just need to know the exact process that goes on when sleeving the block. And where can I get some good sleeves for a h22a1?
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Old 11-02-2001, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sleeves are the tubes that the pistons travel up and down in. Almost all commercial engines have a sleeve with a water jacket between the sleeve and the block so coolant can flow around the sleeves, taking heat away.

This is the best picture I could find of the stock sleeves on the H22a4, 5th Gen Prelude Engine. It's a picture of a trashed engine that a guy here downshifted on, when he should have upshifted. You can see the sleeves and the space aruond the sleeves where the coolant flows.


The H22a1 engine (4th Gen) is closed deck, meaning the top of the sleeves have been connected to the block in order to prevent the sleeves from floating or being pushed around. You can see in this picture of my friends H22a1 block how it's all closed up except for the holes in the top that let coolant flow into the head.

http://www.higginstribe.com/gallery/...h22a1_deck.jpg

If you are pushing alot of boost you'll get thicker heavier sleeves put in that can take the increased pressure of the extra power. Also you are supposed to replace the sleeves on the H22a if you are putting in forged pistons. My understanding is that the cylinders are fiber reinforced (FRM). Some people say there's a nikasil coating on the sleeves. I tend to beleive we have FRM sleeves seeing as I've heard of other cars made with FRM sleeves, but I've never heard of a commercial North American Car with Nikasil coating. I've never heard any certainty of either of these things, but JE does tell you that you need to resleeve H22a before putting in their pistons.

I got my engine sleeved by Leitner and Bush a Toronto machine shop. They originaly designed the T-Top sleeves. They look like this before dropping in:


The old sleeves are machined out and the new ones are sealed in. Then water passages are drilled in the deck. My finished engine looks like this:


Darton makes sleeves like this now, as well. They produce a kit with everything needed for a machine shop to put them in.

If I lived in the US, I would have gotten the Golden Eagle sleeves. There's a group buy going on right now for them. Unfortunetly you are going to have to send off your block to them where they install the sleeves. When you get it back you'll have to get the sleeves cut and honed for your pistons. I don't remember who I stole this picture off of. You can see they leave the deck open, but they leave tabs that keep the sleeves from shifting or moving.
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Old 11-02-2001, 12:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so, how much will it cost me to get my h22a1 resleeved with golden eagles, and for all of the boring and honing? Approximately?
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Old 11-02-2001, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dirtylude-thanks for finally posting some informative info about sleeving the h22a. I here one thing from somebody and something totaly contradicting it from another. What you said sounds like some solid info.

Anyone have any idea how much the kit that Darton sells for resleaving? I would rather buy the sleeves and have them put in locally. Can you order sleeves to a certain piston size or is a one size fits all and you get them bored out?
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Old 11-03-2001, 09:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's a link to the Golden Eagle group buy.

http://home.rochester.rr.com/bplesn/goldeneagle.html

I don't know how much the Darton sleeve kit is. You might want to e-mail them.

http://www.darton-international.com/sleeve_fr.html
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Old 11-03-2001, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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heh...that was my motor.

The pic of the GE-ized block is mine. I got in on the groupbuy for the sleeves...came out to around $850 or so with shipping. It's about $50 or so each way...not as bad as I expected.

Just waiting on a couple more things and I'll be ready for reassembly. Getting laid off sorta put the brakes on it recently but it should be up and running soon.

--Ian
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Old 11-03-2001, 10:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I should have known seeing as it says CLEN in the bottom left hand corner.

Good luck with the job, and keep us updated.
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Old 11-04-2001, 08:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks...I was checking out your pics and it looks like you're ahead of me. ;} Any idea when it'll be up and running?

I noticed that you aren't using o-rings...you think it'll be ok at elevated boost levels? I'm curious because GE didn't o-ring mine like I had asked (honest mistake that they offered to cover) and instead step-decked it. Since I'm aiming for approx 1.5bar I'm a little worried about it holding.

--Ian

Staring at a pile of parts sitting in his office... ;}
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Old 11-04-2001, 09:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Since I have a flat deck I think I'll be a little better off around the head gasket area. If not, then I'll have to start experimenting with some aftermarket ones.

We put the engine back in on Friday night. Unfortunetely I couldn't do much more than that. I decided that I wasn't going to replace the stock wiring with the Haltech harness, so I trashed my ECU and cut out the wire connector. I wired the Haltech directly to the back of the ECU connector so that I can just plug and play it. This way I can try it on other cars with the same OBDII connector as well.

http://www.higginstribe.com/gallery/...connector2.jpg
http://www.higginstribe.com/gallery/...connector4.jpg

Hopefully I can get it running when I get back to Toronto next Friday. I'll be without the turbo for a week or two before I get a custom turbo header and downpipe made up. Then it's all tuning.
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