so me and my buddy raced the other night and he has an 05 v6 mustang auto.my motor is fully built i.e. new pistons,rods,cams,gears,sleeves,and valvetrain.his car is completely stock and he smoked me.WTF!!is this normal?i nailed all my shifts and he still won.it was like my car was running on 2 cylinders or something.am i just expecting too much from my lude?its the first and only lude ive ever drivin so idk if my car is like every other lude or not.any ideas as to how to fix this?thats crap if i cant even beat a v6 mustang.
1. For fully built, you should be pushing 270 whp, that's what real fully built H22's do. I highly doubt you are getting anywhere near that. With that, you should have easily beat
2. If you want to beat him, buy a v8 mustang. Seriously, drag racing is pretty pointless.
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well my motor is built for the most part but i was just stunned at how easy it was for him to win.i know he would win from a rolling start since he has more torque but still.there are some performance mods i will get soon that should help a little.
really? my buddy has an '05 v6 also. the first week I had my '97sh we raced like 5 times. He beat me twice. I beat him from 0-60, then 20-60, and 20-60 again the last three times. Also keep in mind the timing was off, the clutch was slippin like it had wd-40 on it, AND it only had 50 lbs of pressure on the #1 cylinder. We were on a neighborhood culdesac so I have no idea what would happen past 60, but i still think you should have won.
really? my buddy has an '05 v6 also. the first week I had my '97sh we raced like 5 times. He beat me twice. I beat him from 0-60, then 20-60, and 20-60 again the last three times. Also keep in mind the timing was off, the clutch was slippin like it had wd-40 on it, AND it only had 50 lbs of pressure on the #1 cylinder. We were on a neighborhood culdesac so I have no idea what would happen past 60, but i still think you should have won.
Power is about the same. 210hp vs. 200hp. RWD has greater powertrain loss so less of that 210hp gets to the wheels. Definitely way more torque though (like almost double, but then almost double the displacement). Also weights what 200kg more? Auto will also slow it down.
I have two witnesses. The mustang makes 210hp at the crank, with the automatic, the gears are longer making acceleration slower, and it's 400 pounds heavier. I think any naturally aspirated prelude would have a heck a time trying to beat a 5 speed 4.0L but, I beat an automatic easy.
by built i mean i have JE pistons,Eagle rods,parton sleeves,and skunk 2 cams gears and valvetrain.i beat him off the line but my lead definetly didnt last long.idk i guess i just assumed my car could keep up better than that.
Tuned with what? How much power? Torque? Also you know for a fact that his car was stock? Tuning could be letting you down. Assuming that you kept the ATTS, then that means best case you have a eManage Ultimate or AEM F/IC.
With that kind of work you should be pulling at least 230hp at the crank with maybe 15% loss at the wheels. Mustang as above is 210hp at the crank and could be looking at 25% loss. So you have the jump on power, but with a N/A build you will be lacking in torque, but as said shorter (manual) gears, less powertrain loss as well as 200kg less weight.
well i bought the lude with that stuff on it so i doubt the previous owner had it tuned since there are no tuning shops in indy for the most part.and i know for a fact his is stock b/c ive been friends with this guy since the 6th grade and he hasnt had the mustang for that long.my car is making 215 hp tops def not 230.i wish it was lol
How do you get more HP from just replacing pistons/rods and sleves..
unless you went with high-comp pistons, and if you did you are going to need a tune.
There is no mention of what kind of head work done other then replacing OEM parts for skunk2 parts these is not going to give you power unless you did a angle valve job and P/P oversized valves.
replacing OEM parts for aftermarket parts with the same specs will still give around the same HP.
you might even lose some as the honda OEM rotating mass is lighter then a forged set up. Forged is a hell of alot stronger but if your not reving to 9K or putting boost on it. its just dead weight.
I have seen alot of good builds with type S pistons and block/head decking to bring the CR up.
if your still at your stock CR you bullet proof block that can handle 600+ is just extra weight on the rotating mass.
I did read again and noticed you said you had cams .. what kind and who tuned for them if not they are going to make you lose power.
unless you rev to 9K that you will need a tune for!
idk how he could be a better driver when all he has to do is floor it.and i was shifting around 7500 but it didnt matter b/c like i said he killed me.
are you sure that your engine is really "built"?? if you have no reciepts, maybe you should take a peek at your engine. Buddy of mine got ****ed because the owner before him said so much about a engine turns out it was stock. just a idea
i know in my base i beat the older v6's any day.. i have not tried a 05+ though lol
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