why would you want a constant 12v? Since you will only be using it while driving, it'd make sense to wire it into an accessory circuit. You could get that at the back of the radio, or at the fuse box like rayslude said. (windshield wiper fuse is always a good fuse for that). Also, the cig lighter in the 5th gen is accessory powered.
__________________
**Erik**
1998 base 5spd
Nordic Mist Metallic
JDM H22A
JDM Type S intake
Hondata IM insulator
Tein H-tech w/ KYB GR2
please tell me you're puttng an inline fuse in with this.
Also, any accessories that i buy that are gonna be 100% permanent, i run to the fuse box. That way if a fuse blows, I have 1 place to look. (Well, 2 if you count the underhood fuse/relay box).
I agree with rayslude IF you are going to tap into the ignition wire please put an inline fuse of the right size in. The best place to tap into would def. be the fuse box like rayslude said then you know you are safe as far as if the system overloads or has a short it will blow the fuse instead of your wiring and components that you have hooked up.
I agree with rayslude IF you are going to tap into the ignition wire please put an inline fuse of the right size in. The best place to tap into would def. be the fuse box like rayslude said then you know you are safe as far as if the system overloads or has a short it will blow the fuse instead of your wiring and components that you have hooked up.
Yea ultimately I'm going to hardwire my TOMTOM navigation and the Radar to the same spot, so I guess I'll tap into the fuse box.
Thing is I've never done that before. Thats the only reason i'm a little reluctant to do it. So I guess i'll have some research on how to do it now.
use a test light on the fuse box, t-tap into an accessory wire, it's really not that difficult
Test lights can damage sensitive electronics. If you test the wrong wire, you may damage the computer or another sensitive component. Spend the $15 and buy a digital volt/ohm meter. Make sure it is for automotive applications; it should have an internal resistance of 10 megaOhms. With a proper 'DVOM' (digital volt ohm meter) you can test anything you want without worrying about damaging anything.
Also, going to the ignition harness is a perfectly fine place to grab accessory/ign/constant 12v. You will just need to be careful to not bother any wires in a yellow loom (airbag wires) or your immobilizer wires (usually smaller guage and inconspicuous). Damaging these would be an expensive mistake. However, as long as you use fuses on your wiring that you will run, you can safely hook up numerous accessories to the ignition wiring, as it will support higher amperage levels. This is a benefit of grabbing 12v here.
Going to the radio, or even more simple to get to, the cigarette lighter will provide you with enough amperage to run your radar detector and one or two more accessories without blowing the cigarette lighter fuse in your interior fuse-box.
The fuse box is another great spot to grab accessory or constant 12v as long as you use the proper fuse-tap. Don't just wrap the wire around one of the legs of a fuse. And again, make sure you wire in an inline fuse to any wire you run. Try to tap the wire onto the 'after-fuse element' side of a fuse.' To test: pull the desired fuse out and test the fuse-box itself for which side sees 12v. Hook up to the side w/o 12v. This requires all power pulled from that circuit to be monitored by the appropriate rated fuse, which makes sure you don't exceed the amperage rating of the wire.
For wiring in fuses: You'll always want to wire the fuse as close to the source of power as you can. The idea is to protect the wire, not the device. (note: devices usually have fuses in their cigarette lighter plug. If your fuse is in the cigarette lighter plug of your device, buy an adapter that provides you with a female cigarette socket that can be wired into a power source and ground point.) Example: if you install the fuse right next to the device and the wire shorts out between the fuse and the source of power, your fuse will do you no good. You will do one of two things: one, blow the fuse on the circuit that you have tapped into, or two, (if you tapped into the 'pre-fuse element' side of a fuse, or an un-fused wire) you will risk a vehicle fire as the shorted wire could heat up, melt its insulation, and/or spark and catch something on fire.
__________________
**Erik**
1998 base 5spd
Nordic Mist Metallic
JDM H22A
JDM Type S intake
Hondata IM insulator
Tein H-tech w/ KYB GR2
I am about to hardwire my escort 8500 while my dash is mostly apart. Wheres the best place to tap a constant 12v?
When i read this fist message i understood it was a ford escort, it is an escort 8500 makes more sense now.. if you drive a fourth gen drop the panel under the steering column only 6 screws look for the sleeved wire bundle heading toward the key cylinder splice onto the solid yellow wire carefull not to cut any others, this makes a big difference for appearance, you should also disconnect your battery while working on your sytems electrical circuits
1. As far as the test light or the voltage meter I'm embarrased to say that I've never used one and I dont know how to. I've actually even got one that I was going to use on something else but ended up having someone do the job for me and I never learned how to use it. Its got two leads and obviously one lead goes to what you want to test, but where does the other lead go? Also when I'm trying to test like a switch or soemthing, how do I use a test light/volt meter to figure out if its working or not?
2. Yeap it was an escort radar, and I think I will go ahead and tap the wire in the ignition seeing as how I actually want to hardwire not one but two things, my TOM TOM ONE navigation, and this Radar) -- I HATE WIRES. so anything I can hardwire to keep the power cords out of the way I will do.
3. Artflex thanks for putting this in the right place, I'm kinda new to the forum and honestly I didn't even notice that we have an audio forum here... since this is just one of the many tihngs I wanna do here in terms of electronics for my lude, (read: carputer) seems like i found a new home here.
1. As far as the test light or the voltage meter I'm embarrased to say that I've never used one and I dont know how to. I've actually even got one that I was going to use on something else but ended up having someone do the job for me and I never learned how to use it. Its got two leads and obviously one lead goes to what you want to test, but where does the other lead go? Also when I'm trying to test like a switch or soemthing, how do I use a test light/volt meter to figure out if its working or not?
2. Yeap it was an escort radar, and I think I will go ahead and tap the wire in the ignition seeing as how I actually want to hardwire not one but two things, my TOM TOM ONE navigation, and this Radar) -- I HATE WIRES. so anything I can hardwire to keep the power cords out of the way I will do.
3. Artflex thanks for putting this in the right place, I'm kinda new to the forum and honestly I didn't even notice that we have an audio forum here... since this is just one of the many tihngs I wanna do here in terms of electronics for my lude, (read: carputer) seems like i found a new home here.
thanks guys
1. It's hard to explain how to use one, as they have so many uses. In your application where you want to find measure for voltage. You'll make sure the leads are plugged into the meter in the appropriate spots. (each meter is a little different) Then, you'll take your red lead and touch it to the wire that you are testing for voltage. Then, take your black lead and touch that to a ground point (like the outer metal of your cigarette lighter socket). Your meter will measure the voltage difference between these two points. If it is an ignition/accessory circuit that you are looking for. First test with the key on in the run/accessory position to establish that the wire in question does in fact receive voltage (fyi, around 12v w/ engine off). If the wire being tested receives the expected voltage turn the key to the 'off' position. An ignition or accessory circuit will drop to 0v when this is done. If the voltage doesn't drop, you have found a constant 12v wire. I hope this helps.
Also if you ever felt the need to measure resistance with a multimeter the process is pretty much the same. You'd put one tester lead (doesn't matter which goes to where) on each of the two points between which you would like to measure the resistance. The meter will provide you with a number; this is the resistance between the two points including the tester lead resistance(they have resistance in them too). To correct for this, take your two bare leads and touch them together. (You should get something around .5 ohm or less) Subtract this number from your measured resistance.
I'd recommend getting an 'auto-ranging' multimeter, as you don't have to choose a numerical range on the meter within which to test. It really simplifies things with a digital auto-ranging multimeter.
To answer your question about testing a switch: Some switches are harder than others, so this'll be for a simple 'single pull, single throw' switch, i.e. toggle switch. If you can remove the switch entirely, you can use either the resistance measurement or you can test for continuity. With the swith entirely removed, put a meter lead to both of the switch terminals and test for resistance. You should find that with the switch flipped one way you will have very high, or infinite resistance. The other way should have very low resistance. A continuity test is a simple resistance test that lets the meter tell you whether or not the 'circuit' you are testing is a continuous circuit.
__________________
**Erik**
1998 base 5spd
Nordic Mist Metallic
JDM H22A
JDM Type S intake
Hondata IM insulator
Tein H-tech w/ KYB GR2
Linear Mode
