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Old 07-02-2010, 02:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Subwoofer+Amp question

Okay, so I can't get into the entertainment sub-forum to post this, so I'm going to post this here. :c

I'm going to buy two of these subs: Kenwood KFC-W3012 KFC Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

I was wondering if buying an amp like this: POWER ACOUSTIK STAX2000/1D MONO CLASS-D CAR AMPLIFIER - eBay (item 120590803651 end time Jul-31-10 10:46:35 PDT)

would be a good pairing, I don't want to overpower them, but from what I've read the subs are 400rms @4ohms and If I buy two I need an amp that is at max 800x1 rms @4ohms to push these subs at their rms max. Am I correct?
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^i wonder if a turbo would make my gf look better??
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Get ready to re-seal your back glass after a month.
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnyinlakai View Post
Okay, so I can't get into the entertainment sub-forum to post this, so I'm going to post this here. :c

I'm going to buy two of these subs: Kenwood KFC-W3012 KFC Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

I was wondering if buying an amp like this: POWER ACOUSTIK STAX2000/1D MONO CLASS-D CAR AMPLIFIER - eBay (item 120590803651 end time Jul-31-10 10:46:35 PDT)

would be a good pairing, I don't want to overpower them, but from what I've read the subs are 400rms @4ohms and If I buy two I need an amp that is at max 800x1 rms @4ohms to push these subs at their rms max. Am I correct?
A few problems I have with that setup:

1) That amp is crap. Any output numbers that it advertises are complete and total bullsh*t. I'd be willing to bet the actual RMS output of that amp is about 300-400 watts or less. The complete lack of info on the ebay listing is also not a good sign.

2) There is no way that you can possibly wire 2 SVC 4-ohm subs and a monoblock amp such that the amp sees a 4 ohm load. It will see a 2 or 8 ohm load, depending on how you wire it.

3) You could get much better subs for that amount of money. Keep shopping around.


Oh, and your back window will be fine.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh, and your back window will be fine.
The rear glass already has a problem with crappy seals. The "block-rockin beats" would only exaggerate the problem.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info indy. The only reason I picked these subs, is crutchfield is having a special deal on them, 2 of them for $150. If I do buy the 2 kenwoods, would it be best to wire them for a 8ohm or 2ohm load? I don't understand this whole ohms deal. :\

was also debating on this sub (just one of them): Boston Acoustics G312-4 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

which I know is much better quality.

p.s Kronn stop being jealous.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The rear glass already has a problem with crappy seals. The "block-rockin beats" would only exaggerate the problem.
I've had a 12" sub in my trunk for well over a year. No problems with the seal here.

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Originally Posted by donnyinlakai View Post
If I do buy the 2 kenwoods, would it be best to wire them for a 8ohm or 2ohm load? I don't understand this whole ohms deal. :\
For subs, definitely lower is better. Use 2 ohm. Less impedance = more usable power, but greater likelihood for distortion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donnyinlakai
was also debating on this sub (just one of them): Boston Acoustics G312-4 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

which I know is much better quality.
That sub is a little better, but it is still middle-of-the-road. Keep looking. Much better subs can still be had for that price.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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indy, how about you show me a better sub for that price, I've been looking for a while lol. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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indy, how about you show me a better sub for that price
Aww....But that's no fun.

If you tell me your budget and exactly what you are looking to accomplish with your system, I might be able to point you in the right direction. There is a huge difference between just wanting a sub that is loud are rattles every window in a 5 block radius and one that just sounds good and rounds out the lower end of the audio spectrum.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've had a 12" sub in my trunk for well over a year. No problems with the seal here.
You only have 1 sub. He wants 2. And weather plays a huge role.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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my budget is $400 (that is including the amp, and sub[s] only).
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You only have 1 sub. He wants 2. And weather plays a huge role.
Let me guess how many subs you have.

Indiana gets all kinds of weather. Hot as hell, damn cold, rain....lots and lots of rain, and I don't have any issues with my rear window seal.

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my budget is $400 (that is including the amp, and sub[s] only).
Does that include an enclosure and wiring...all the that good stuff? Do you already have a headunit with a sub out RCA on it?
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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no, that's just for the sub and amp itself. I'm going to worry about the wiring and enclosure after.

and yes, I have this HU: Sony CDX-GT640UI CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Allow me to suggest:

One or two of these:
Kicker 07CVR12-4 12" 800W Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer or
JBL GTO1214D 12" 1400W Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer

I think my single 12" is plenty, but if you want 2 subs it will be much easier if you just start out with 2 now rather than add one later.

As far as amps, I'd pick one of these two:
MTX Jack Hammer JH600 - 2010 SUMMERTIME SALE
Infinity Reference 611a 600 Watt Class D Subwoofer Amplifier

That should keep you under your $400 budget and get you going with a pretty decent setup.

Crutchfield is a great place to buy audio stuff if you need customer service and help installing stuff, but if you have any idea what you are doing you can find stuff way cheaper elsewhere.
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I really like that JBL sub, that might be the winner. that and the MTX amp, the infinity's rms looks to be too high for the JBL to handle. am I right?
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Depends how many subs you get and how you wire them. Both of the subs I posted are DVC so you have more options. Either amp could be made to work with 1 or 2 of either type of sub.
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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ahh i see now. thanks a bunch dude. you brought me to the light. haha
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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YW. Let me know if you have any other questions.

In case you haven't noticed, there aren't many members on this forum that give a crap about audio stuff. Feel free to PM me if you need help.
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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In case you haven't noticed, there aren't many members on this forum that give a crap about audio stuff. Feel free to PM me if you need help.
Not many care about setting off other people's car alarms. I've already got $1000 into my audio system without subs or amps. However, I will be getting an 8 or two in the near future. I also don't listen to Snoob Cube or Ice Dogg, so that explains a little.
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:16 AM   #19 (permalink)
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if you still don't have either the subs or amp or both, i HIGHLY recommend you call Robot Underground. its a small company that builds subs and refurbishes amps. the guys name is Patrcick and he knows what the hell he's talking about. he built me an 18" Sub thats taking 4000wrms like a champ! haha give him a call he'll help you out
602-312-6504
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:18 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i would go with a one kicker cvx 12 for a prelude and a brand name amp like MTX, Hifonics, or JL, and if u want more base just get a epicenter.

just remember for sounds u get what you paid for.

PS Alpine makes the best head units (my bias). get a second amp for your speakers too, not just for base
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