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Old 03-09-2007, 01:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Necessary baffle diameter size to fit ed 6500s comp set

I believe the 5th gen prelude's have a 2" mounting depth up front and to fit these comps up front (http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=50) i'll need a custom 1" baffle. Now what diameter baffle will i need to insure the door panel fits just fine? I shouldn't have to do any cutting correct? thanks in advance for the help
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If you guys don't know the answer, well dam im screwed.
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Old 03-13-2007, 07:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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you mean spacer, and I disagree that a 6.5" driver will fit where the stock speakers go. I have boston 5.25" components, and there isn't any room for a larger speaker frame. Everywhere I reference the speaker size in the 5gens, 6.5" comes up . I am going to try to fit a set of infinity 6.5" reference components just to see if it is even possible, however, having taken apart my doors upwards of 25 times, I can't imagine how they'd fit. As far as spacers go, 1" might be too tall. I'll see if I can't get a measurement when I'm in there as well.

Also, I would be most concerned with your tweeters. The stock mounting locations use a metal bracket that won't allow for the plastic flange that looks to be permenantly affixed to your aftermarket tweeters.

You will find a nice spot to mount your crossovers, most likely. On the inner side of the door panel, there is a oval-ish "pod" of sorts on the lower half, about center. Can't miss it. I mounted my BA crossovers there. It was snug, but they fit, and there was no door panel fitment issues.

Hope this helps.

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Old 03-17-2007, 02:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the exact speakers that you're looking to install, in my 4th gen. Good luck on fitting them in the 5th gen. Seriously. Even in my car, with tons more clearance than a 5th gen, it's still kind of tight. If you're going to leave the factory grill off, then sure, it'll be as easy as making a spacer. If not, then, I dunno.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I just installed them, had to cut out the plastic speaker mount in the door panel rather dramatically to get them to fit. The problem I am facing now (I think) is that the speaker terminals are making contact with the door metal, they have already pushed through the electrical tape in a day, lol. I am going to make some spacers out of 1/8" abs sheets and stack as needed when I'm at work on Monday. If that doesn't fix it then they're getting returned and my boston 5.25" are going back in.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ah, I was speaking about the original poster's 6500's.
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Old 03-20-2007, 02:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBYlude View Post
you mean spacer, and I disagree that a 6.5" driver will fit where the stock speakers go. I have boston 5.25" components, and there isn't any room for a larger speaker frame. Everywhere I reference the speaker size in the 5gens, 6.5" comes up . I am going to try to fit a set of infinity 6.5" reference components just to see if it is even possible, however, having taken apart my doors upwards of 25 times, I can't imagine how they'd fit. As far as spacers go, 1" might be too tall. I'll see if I can't get a measurement when I'm in there as well.

Also, I would be most concerned with your tweeters. The stock mounting locations use a metal bracket that won't allow for the plastic flange that looks to be permenantly affixed to your aftermarket tweeters.

You will find a nice spot to mount your crossovers, most likely. On the inner side of the door panel, there is a oval-ish "pod" of sorts on the lower half, about center. Can't miss it. I mounted my BA crossovers there. It was snug, but they fit, and there was no door panel fitment issues.

Hope this helps.
Actually, I have fitted 6.5" woofers successfully into the stock location without mangling any metal. Of course most of the plastic baffle have been cut away leaving only the original mounting points on door panel.

When I have time, perhaps at Jeff's house one day, I will attempt to mount them the 'right' way with a 3/4" mdf spacer directly onto the door. Suffice to say, until this is done, the system is missing some major mid range.

The tricky part is keeping the stock grill on the door panel. Might have to fabricate some other ways of keeping it mounted.
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Old 03-20-2007, 04:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm almost there. I have a 1/4" spacer on the fronts now, but it's still not right. So Imagepree, you plan on cutting out the speaker mount from the interior door panel and mounting directly to the door metal? I just might do that when I'm at work when I get time. I'm a mobile installer at Best Buy, so down-time = me time.
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes, that's the goal. However, I don't foresee that I'll need to cut anymore of the door panel. I guess when it does happen, we'll see.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I DID IT used an abs spacer ring and I cut out the door panel to fit over the spacer/speaker combo. Mounted the door panel up, installed the spacer, then installed the speaker. I can get measurements if you want them when i am at work next. I need to get some paint thinner or something to get rid of all of the white gooey gunk that holds on the plastic liner so that I can finish off with some dynamat. That stuff is so horribliy sticky.
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I DID IT used an abs spacer ring and I cut out the door panel to fit over the spacer/speaker combo. Mounted the door panel up, installed the spacer, then installed the speaker. I can get measurements if you want them when i am at work next. I need to get some paint thinner or something to get rid of all of the white gooey gunk that holds on the plastic liner so that I can finish off with some dynamat. That stuff is so horribliy sticky.
ABS plastic, eh? I thought the only thing to use was MDF. Anyway, great that it works.

I have 6500s in my 4th gen, and they are a VERY tight fit. I ditched the stock plastic basket completely and used about 1" of MDF spacers (I had to stack two pieces to make each spacer), and I had to cut some of the plastic off the inside of the door panels to allow room for speaker excursion. There's a place on the door panel where two plastic sheets pinch together and form a seam inside, where they bolt together. I had to grind that away.
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The 5gen doors must be a bit different (i've never even been inside a 4gen, lol) the only thing I needed to worry about with speaker excursion was the stock speaker grill.

Abs is, well, free. I just dug around in the junk cabinet at work and found speaker adapters that had to altered slightly. If I hade a sealed enclosure for the components (say, somehow fabricate a fiberglass pod to mount in the door space behind the speaker) then I'd use MDF, as I could get much better bite with the mounting screws to create a better seal. I think ABS is just fine for a non-sealed application, but i might be wrong.

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Old 03-23-2007, 07:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Your lifter rings are a non-sealed application?
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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no, my front speaker setup is a non-sealed setup. Technically the speaker enclosure is now the area between the door skin and the door frame, which is riddled full of holes and whatnot, so it's certainly not sealed. (I'm not going to call it ported, as the ports are in no way tuned) Any air leakage is going to be out of said holes, wheareas in a sealed enclosure with an ABS spacer, the air will escape around the spacer. The screws won't hold as much torque as an MDF spacer would. So, like I said, if I were to make a fiberglass enclosure to mount in the door (somehow) then a MDF spacer would be almost required, unless I wanted to seal both the spacer and the speaker with butyl or silicon or something of the sort.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The spacer dimensions are as follows:
O.D. - 61mm
I.D. - 40mm
Height - 18mm

I didn't measure the opening in the door, but I'd imagine it would be 62 or 63mm? Just large enough to fit over the speaker adapter.

No pictures though.

I applied dynamat to the front doors (actually only the front half of each door). I only had 4 sq ft. But what a difference! The midbass sounds much tighter and a bit louder
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If I were buying dynamat, I'd only have 4 feet too, because it costs many times more than the other brands.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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well, I work for Best Buy, so I paid $12 for a $35 roll of Dynamat. It's a hell of a mark-up.
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