ok, i know preludepowerr is asking about components but im asking about how you guys ran new speaker wires into the doors. i just got myself some hifonics 5.25 components and i am straightup clueless on how about getting the wires ran.
I believe there is a section at www.ntpog.org site on how to run into the doors. Have fun, there's a nice fat molex plug you get to drill through. In fact I get to drill through it for my alarm and stereo, whoopee!
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1999 Nighthawk Black Pearl Prelude
14.2 Sec@101 MPH
"Cars don't make power, people make power."
the easiest way is to remove the front bumper and pull off the fenders, this can be a pain, but once you have the fender off it gets a little easier.
then you must pull off the boots and unplug the molex going into the door, you must drill the plastic molex in the door and the part you unplugged, but they need to match so when you fish your wire through and plug the molex back in they are in the same spot.
I did this three times now and it took about 2.5 hours a door.
prelude was the hardest car i have done this too and last time on a civic i charged an astronomical amount of money.
there is an alternate route of making your own hole, but i would advise against it
it is so much easier.......i did one door with and one without.....big difference
just sucked lining them back up
just trying to help out!!
So when the hell are you gonna come over and help me dismantel my entire front end! Who would have thought to take off your front bumper to ease the speaker install in your door. The only thing worse than that is to remove the front bumper to change your brake lights!
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1999 Nighthawk Black Pearl Prelude
14.2 Sec@101 MPH
"Cars don't make power, people make power."
i ummmmm........."customized" my passenger fender putting it back on!imagepree cause i am a big f'n clutz!!!!, it's ok now, but should have been avoided.
you can do it either way i am sure, but if your back is like mine then this is the way to go.
I just went through the whole ordeal last weekend - it freakin' sucks.
I tried to follow the instructions on ntpog.org - read it probably 10 times, but gave up on doing it how he did. Getting the connecter loose from the door was freakin' impossible - my hands are still sore 3 days later. I eventually gave up. And I can't even imagine trying to run the wires through that stock rubber sleeve - it's about 6 inches long, with two 90 degree angles, and zero room to work with - both on the inside of the car and the inside of the door.
Needless to say, it didn't work out for me - I'm very impressed by people who have managed to run wires this way. They've more skill & determination that I can lay claim too.
Mind you, I'm only a fledgling shadetree mechanic & audio installer (a.k.a. first time doing it), so someone with more experience may have better luck.
My solution - After taking off all the misc. trim & lifting the carpet some, I drilled a 3/8 inch hole in the thin metal door sill at the bottom corner of the door opening, and another into the door-jam. If you unbolt the door retainer, you can open the door another couple feet, which allows you to angle the drill to get in there. I then filed the holes down, zapped 'em with some primer, and put in some small rubber grommets (24 cents a piece). A 3/8 inch GD grommet was the perfect size to fit thin-insulation 16 gauge wire.
All in all, it's not as clean as the ntpog method, since you can see the speaker wire running inside the door jam. But I think it looks pretty good, and it doesn't get pinched anywhere, so it should be just as reliable - maybe more, since you can see the wire and if it's getting worn. And a hell of a lot easier than running it through the stock harness. Not to mention you don't have to remove body panels.
I'm sure that if I had taken it somewhere to get it done, I would have ended up with the exact same solution. I can't picture any of the local install shops (okay, there's only one) messing around with the stock harness.
Anyway, good luck, with whatever method you decide on.
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Hey Dave, talk about unearthing this thread from the dead, but if you have the time would be great to see a pic of your solution. Might be taking off the doors sometime soon to drill holes for wire, but would like to avoid this if possible.
Hey Dave, talk about unearthing this thread from the dead, but if you have the time would be great to see a pic of your solution. Might be taking off the doors sometime soon to drill holes for wire, but would like to avoid this if possible.
TIA!
dev
Wow, doing some gravedigging? What he was talking about is the cheap & easy way to run wires into doors. Where the front of the door (side closest to the engine) touches the car door jam when the door is closed, is where you'd drill your holes. One small hole in the door, one small one in the door jam, then use grommets in the holes. Unbolting the door retainer lets you swing the door open more so you can get your drill in that little area. But if you have a right angle attachment for your drill, life is good. There's no need to completely remove the doors from the car.
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Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
Thanks Exodus! Have you tried this yourself, and do you have a more specific location for where to make the holes? I've studied the door and jam and unbolted the retainer, and still haven't found a good spot to make the holes. Can't really see where one could fit in a drill even with the right angle attachment. If you could describe or have a pic of exactly where to make the holes, that would be the most helpful!
I would have drilled the hole into the door closer to the bottom, but that was the only place could fit the drill (didn't have a right-angle drill). When you unbolt the door-stay, it allows you to open the door enough to slip a normal sized drill in to hit the point where I drilled mine.
I've been meaning to slip on some black wire loom (or even just some electrical tape) to cover the wire & make it look a little better, but I obviously don't care a whole lot since it's been like 3.5 years & I still haven't done it . . .
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Haha, just like I was supposed to do my speaker install 2.5 yrs ago! Thanks as always Dave. Surprised you could drill that high on the door. Do you have any pics showing where the wire actually enters the door? Also, seems that if you were able to drill that high on the door, then you should be able to drill in corresponding place on the door jam--but there must be a reason you didn't.
Surprised you could drill that high on the door. Do you have any pics showing where the wire actually enters the door? Also, seems that if you were able to drill that high on the door, then you should be able to drill in corresponding place on the door jam--but there must be a reason you didn't.
Yeah, it's been a while, but I seem to remember that not only was it the only place on the door I could easily hit with the drill I had, but it was a fairly handy flat space where the metal wasn't overly thick - and nothing important behind it. I don't think I have any pictures of the grommet into the door.
I picked that spot down on the doorjam mostly just for convenience - didn't feel like removing the glove box & ABS computer & all that crap so I could punch a hole higher up.
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I've been meaning to slip on some black wire loom (or even just some electrical tape) to cover the wire & make it look a little better, but I obviously don't care a whole lot since it's been like 3.5 years & I still haven't done it . . .
LOL That would drive me nuts!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
You guys are doing this the hard way. Make a small slice in the rubber grommet where the factory wiring harness is, on both the door itself and the body of the car. Fish the wire from inside the car, out through the grommet, into the door through the other grommet, and use electrical tape to hold the speaker wire to the factory wiring (and conceal it).
You can see the wire coming out of the body here:
Here's a pic from the inside of the door:
Much better solution in my opinion. Not only is there a shorter run of wire between the door and body, a little bit of black electrical tape will make it look completely stock, and you don't have to drill through your door.
mciampag- That will work fine for 4th gens, but 5th gens are different. There's a molex plug that you have to deal with and drill a hole into for the wire to pass through. 4th gens are just blessed, being easilly upgraded audio wise. I ran my wires for my jdm folding mirrors (5 16ga wires on the driver's side ) through the grommets of my 4th gen doors, w/o slicing into them. (just takes patience)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
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Who would have thought to take off your front bumper to ease the speaker install in your door. The only thing worse than that is to remove the front bumper to change your brake lights! 
What he was talking about is the cheap & easy way to run wires into doors. Where the front of the door (side closest to the engine) touches the car door jam when the door is closed, is where you'd drill your holes. One small hole in the door, one small one in the door jam, then use grommets in the holes. Unbolting the door retainer lets you swing the door open more so you can get your drill in that little area. But if you have a right angle attachment for your drill, life is good. 
There's no need to completely remove the doors from the car.
) through the grommets of my 4th gen doors, w/o slicing into them. (just takes patience)
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