i'm redoing the wiring on a 4g and i'm trying to do it right...
The e-brake switch is only grounded/sees ground when the car is in 'on'.
So i'm wiring the 'wait-to-start' wire to this switch, the car will check to see neg on that wire before trying the remote start process. Does that sound ok?
Next, the clutch interlock switch is Positive triggered (on an auto-manual swap). How do i use a negative trigger on a circuit that requires a constant power source when starting (it's part of the starter cut circuit)???
well that would mean the car would have to have the ebrake on to remote start...but even if the car is in gear and the brake is on it could still go.
recently I had a Python 990 installed on my car and it took a pretty indepth process with my stereo place i always go to, but its a foolproof way of installing it. I'm not exactly how to explain it but it involves a relay that goes through the neutral safety switch which goes into the ECU (at least it does on subies) and if the shifter is in neutral then it fires a positive signal, and when in gear it fires no signal...or neutral.
This thread on nasioc explains a few different ways to safely incorporate a remote start to where it will only start if the car is in neutral, and you don't comprimise any safeguards with the clutch or neutral safety switch.
it is, but since the e-brake circuit is only 'live' when the car is on, i need the main power to be on before the e-brake circuit is checked for negativity??? lol
'the viper remote start systems need to see ground in order for remote start and valet take over modes to occur. i typically recommend and install the black/white neutral safety sense of the viper system to the parking brake. this isn't 100% safe for manual transmissions, that's why the neutral position switch within the transmission is used to trigger the hood input of the remote start system.
when the vehicle is in gear the neutral position switch within the transmission will throw ground to the vehicle's ecu. you can wire inline with a diode to the remote start system's hood pin input. the remote start system will think the hood is open and will either turn off the remote start or prevent remote start from happening.
you can also wire the neutral position switch to a 12 volt relay to send ground to the viper's neutral safety sense input. wire as follows:
use the 2nd ignition output of the remote start system (this wire isn't used for the impreza since it only has 1 ignition wire off the ignition harness) to Pin 86
Wire the neutral position switch to Pin 85. It's advisable to install a quenching diode to prevent voltage feedback to either the ecu or the neutral position switch. A pre-wired starter kill will typically come with the diode installed on Pin 86 and Pin 85.
Parking brake wire to Pin 87a
Pin 30 to remote start systems neutral safety sense input (ie. black/white wire for dei remote start systems)
This will provide at least 2 levels of safety, the neutral position switch and the parking brake check. If the vehicle is in neutral and the parking brake isn't engaged the neutral safety sense will never see ground and thus preventing or disabling remote start/valet take over.
if the parking brake is engaged and the vehicle is in gear, the relay trips open and the neutral safety sense never see's ground.
Always use common sense anyway b/c the neutral position switch is mechanical and may not throw ground at all.'
I know how to convert polarity, my thing is how can i wire in teh starter cut relay via the clutch switch that will keep them from overheating. seems no one wants to keep this functionality and just jump the wires/connect the starter lock wires together.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if this "wait-to-start" wire is ever given positive voltage, it won't allow the start. But it can get negative or no connection any other time.
This wire is meant to be connected to the glow plug lamp on the dash for older diesels. This means that when this wire gets positive current (glow plugs light on, waiting to warm up), it does not allow the start until this positive current is shut off, then attempt is made to start, (glow plugs warm, light off.) This is how I interpret this, since most dash assembly's are commonly grounded together and only the positive for individual warning lamps are switched circuits. EDIT: Seems wait-to-start dash light can be triggered by either positive or negative voltage.
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number in my user name is the year of my first prelude, last and best year of 2nd gens, a sparkle black 1987si 2.0.
How do i use a negative trigger on a circuit that requires a constant power source when starting (it's part of the starter cut circuit)???
Sorry, I read this as "how to I convert polarity?", but again if you dig into that site I think it shows how to use triggers that hold by just using relays. If I thought about it enough I could figure it out, but that site even shows how to make your own alarm system with like 6 different relays and a wireless fob or something like that LOL
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Originally Posted by ludehawk
I know how to convert polarity, my thing is how can i wire in teh starter cut relay via the clutch switch that will keep them from overheating. seems no one wants to keep this functionality and just jump the wires/connect the starter lock wires together.
I don't get it, what are you afraid of overheating?
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number in my user name is the year of my first prelude, last and best year of 2nd gens, a sparkle black 1987si 2.0.
Well find a way to wire in our e-brake circuit. The circuit ONLY works when the car is on. It shows negative when the car is off... but when the car is on, it shows negative when the e-brake is pulled and nothing when it's off. Maybe I can throw a diode in-line so it doesn't get anything from the ecu/wherever its' getting it's negative when off?
If it's the way you describe then yes, you will need to wire a diode in between the main harness which goes to the dash and brake switch, so that negative only flows from switch to the cluster and not the opposite way.
It's interesting though, I have no idea why that line would ground that line when the car is off.
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number in my user name is the year of my first prelude, last and best year of 2nd gens, a sparkle black 1987si 2.0.
I know you get it ludehawk. But for anyone reading this in the future, he needs to set it up to look like the last diode in the diagram with the stripe side connected to the brake switch.
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number in my user name is the year of my first prelude, last and best year of 2nd gens, a sparkle black 1987si 2.0.
Well find a way to wire in our e-brake circuit. The circuit ONLY works when the car is on. It shows negative when the car is off... but when the car is on, it shows negative when the e-brake is pulled and nothing when it's off. Maybe I can throw a diode in-line so it doesn't get anything from the ecu/wherever its' getting it's negative when off?
what do you mean it shows negative? There's voltage that drops to 0- AFTER it's put in ON?
THe ebrake should show ground (-) all the time no matter the ignition position. It is only attached to a ground and a push switch on the ebrake handle itself...at least that's what I remember on the 4th gen?
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