but i'm also considering these amps as well:
Power Acoustik SL4-1000
Infinity Ref 7541a
MB Quart Ref RAA4200
Kenwood Excelon KAC-X541
Kicker KX650.4
does anyone have any opionions about the amps? anyone use any of them before? any other suggestions for other amps based on the speakers i'll be getting?
Just wondering why you'd chose an amp that puts out 30 more watts rms than the speakers' nominal rating? Granted, head room is great, but it isn't necessary. I wouldn't recommend using any of those other amps that you have up there. Did you look at the power ratings on those things? Unless you like fried coils and damaged suspensions (blown speakers), stay away from those babies. Your speakers would be better with an amp like the Alpine MRP-F450. It'll save you money, space, and drive your current speakers perfecly.
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Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
imo should be fine. If you have your gains set right then you'll go deaf before your voice coils fry.
I have heard good things of those Pioneers however I remember liking MB Quarts a great deal- the company however is under new ownership so I'm unsure what their newer gear sounds like. In this case, I think it is most important to let your ears do the deciding rather than other people with possibly different tastes in sound on a forum.
I still don't think you will have any problems with either amp. I recall one of the Alpine show-cars uses an MRV-T420 to power Type X components rated at 80w rms without any problems. That's more or less the same as my own setup- MRV-T420 certified at 126w/ch powering Focal Polykevlar k2 Power 165KF rated at 80w/ch. It's usually the clipping of your amplifier and your drivers ability to dissipate heat that will cause voice coils to fry, not so much the current going through it. If you're really worried, set your gains with an oscilloscope. The safe option is definitely to match the rated power but I honestly don't believe that putting 120w through a speaker is that risky either- you've just got to tune it right. Anyway, if you have a look at the power draw of a speaker, it will hardly ever exceed 10w which is tiny really.
I run over 120w to my components, but it isn't something that I recommend a novice to try. Yes you can do it safely if you know how to tune and have an o-scope, but really most people do not. I recommend staying close to the rated power because it's fool proof. Too many times, I've installed higher power amps into people's systems for them, trusting their ability to use their heads and not blow things up. But I don't know how many times those people have come back saying "uh... my speakers stopped working all the sudden" or "mm... I don't know what happened... everything sounds like crap now." Then I have to rip into the car and check if they messed with the amp, figure out if they turned "loud" on on the deck, how they changed the eq, ask them "how loud WERE you listening to it? " etc. You (kelvin259) and I may love having headroom in our systems, but it isn't for the novice. The initial post in this thread should have told you that that is what Lucke is.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
point taken, but you are forgetting that if something as fundamental as gain were set incorrectly on a lower powered amp, the exact same result will occur due to clipping and distortion. You need to realise that it is this that destroys speakers and not power levels.
LOL, this guy. I'm well aware of the situations that cause equipment to fail. While true that you can kill speakers with a dirty, clipped signal going through, it isn't the only thing. Keep in mind the other things that can happen once a speaker is pushed passed it's recommended power levels. As someone who supervises & installs day in & day out, and as the moderator of this forum, I'm going to give safe recommendations.
Aside:
This argument is like someone learning how to swim asking which pool to swim in. I recommend the 3' deep one. You recommend the pool that goes from 3' to 10'. It's not risky if you know how to swim well. I say it's better to let him swim in a more shallow/safe depth. You argue that you can technically drown in 3" of water, and it's not the depth that drowns you, it's the water in your lungs.
This discussion is moving more and more away from the main point of the thread. As such, any further discussion can take place through PM's. Any other posts relating to this side discussion, within the thread, will be deleted out of respect for Lucke.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
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" etc. You (kelvin259) and I may love having headroom in our systems, but it isn't for the novice. The initial post in this thread should have told you that that is what Lucke is.
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