Adire Koda Components (pics inside) - Honda Prelude Forum

mciampag · 07-25-2003, 07:27 PM

Well I got everything peel n' sealed, installed, and ready to go. My initial impression was disappointment, but then I realized my Alpine head unit causes distortion in the upper volume ranges, and adjusted my gains accordingle. Now I'm very, very impressed. The midbass is awesome, the tweeters are awesome, everything is awesome. The accuracy is wonderful, the clarity is wonderful, I love these components. And boy do they go loud. It gets painful before they start to distort. I use a number of CDs to test, to demo speakers, etc. They all sound wonderful. I think I may turn up my gains a little more and try to get the painful threshold a little further away from the Alpine-induced distortion threshold. I'm very disappointed in that problem, I need to call Alpine and figure out why the signal distorts if I crank it up past 85% of the max (30/35). At normal listening volumes, it's crystal clear, so it's not a huge issue, mostly the principle of the matter.

Here're the pics of the front stage install (amp pics later)

This is the tweeter, kinda looks like an eyeball hanging on the optical nerve. It's since been mounted in the stock tweeter location, even in the stock tweeter bracket. Will probably relocate closer to the woofer in the future.

This is one mad mofo. I got rid of the black basket completely, in place I installed 2 (two) 3/4" spacer rings. This leaves me about 3/8" clearance from the window.

To get the door panel to fit back on, I had to slightly modify it. The circled area has been cut back a little bit. The cone doesn't hit anything, the panel doesn't hit anything, nothing hits, everything fits. This answers the age old question of "how big a spacer can we get in a 4th gen". The answer is 1.5" if you remove the basket.

3 layers of Peel and Seal on the door skin

A few more layers on the rest of the door. Notice every hole has been covered, with several layers. The holes are now quite stiff.

This was how I ran new wires into the doors. I never could find pics before, of a 4G at least, so now maybe someone else can. I just cut a slit int he factory grommet and fished the wire in. Just took a few minutes.

This is the inside of the door, shows clearly where the wire ends up. Fishing the wire under the dash was a bit tricky, they sure make those grommets hard to reach.

go pre · 07-25-2003, 07:47 PM

looks good, i bet the doors are noticably heavier now huh? I'm probably going to go back and put some more of the peal & seal on my doors eventually, as long as it doesn't melt off.

I did pretty much the same thing as you did for running the speaker wire but i didn't cut the wire casing. it's tricky getting the wire from the grommet through to the dash, but I found that using some fish tape made it a lot easier. basically I just poked the fish tape out the grommet hole from inside the car, tacked the wire onto it, and pulled it back in.

can you feel any vibrations or resonances on the door panel now that you've put all that dampening on it? and did you apply any to the interior door panel?

mciampag · 07-25-2003, 09:19 PM

The door IS noticeably heavier, it closes with a nice 'thud' now. The sound inside the car is completely different too. Still a lot of engine noise, and on crappy roads I can hear some road noise coming from the tires, but there is a noticeable improvement. There's a very slight vibration in the door panel if I crank the speakers up real high. Under normal listening conditions, they feel pretty solid. The speakers play a bit lower than before too, better bass response. The biggest mistake I made was attaching the speakers to the door before dampening the area. They seal pretty tightly to the door so there's no audible vibration, nothing rattles, but I'm pretty sure that's why I can still feel a slight vibration in the door at loud volumes.

There's material covering everything I could reach. The outer door skin is completely covered with 3 layers, the inside of the door panel (inside the door, closest to the interior of the car) has some material on it, every hole in the door panel was covered on both sides. And the innermost part of the door (the part you see from the inside of the car) has 1-2 layers on it. Again, more material covering the holes than elsewhere.

I think we did the same thing for wire, from different sides. I poked the wire through from the door hinge towards the cabin. I couldn't even find the grommet behind the dash until I had a few feet of wire to look for. I did find that the driver's side was easier to see, but harder to reach.

go pre · 07-25-2003, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mciampag
They seal pretty tightly to the door so there's no audible vibration, nothing rattles, but I'm pretty sure that's why I can still feel a slight vibration in the door at loud volumes.

are you talking about the interior panel vibrating? I was under the impression that it resonates because of the air being moved around by the speaker. basically your whole door acts as a speaker box. in my opinion, the plastic panel is the main problem as far as resonance, but i don't know if extra dampening around the baffle would help that. since you covered all the holes on the metal part of the door, it seems like the air would be kept inside the outer frame and not affect the interior panel. that's probably the best thing you can do to keep the interior panel from resonating. I'll have to go back and fill in all the holes on my doors sometime like you did because my doors are still resonating pretty noticably.

mciampag · 07-26-2003, 06:36 AM

You could be right, I haven't had time to figure out exactly why my plastic panel vibrates. It's very minor though, to the point that I might just consider it insignificant and not worry about tearing my door apart again. It doesn't rattle, even at extreme volumes, so I'm happy enough.