Today, I went to get my tire fixed at Pep Boys (unsuccessfully because the hole is way too big ), so the mechanic sent me to the tire store next door. I asked about some prices for the RE730, RE92, and A520, and the guy said that the A520's were being discontinued, so the price got jacked a little. Does anyone know anymore about this?
Also, on a little side note, now that I have to buy a new friggin tire, would it be logical to get 1 RE730 for my rear passenger (the one that had a flat), while I keep RE92 stock tires for the rest? The tread is still pretty good on all the tires, but I don't want to spend the extra money on the RE92's. It seems that www.talontire.com has the best prices for the RE92 ($112) while www.tirerack.com has the best prices for the RE730 ($105). I really need advice on this.
Originally posted by arrrmand would it be logical to get 1 RE730 for my rear passenger (the one that had a flat), while I keep RE92 stock tires for the rest? The tread is still pretty good on all the tires, but I don't want to spend the extra money on the RE92's.
Absolutely NOT logical! It's not even a good idea to just replace the bad one with a brand new RE92 (unless the three good tires have VERY low miles on them). The tires on the same axle should be identical in every aspect.
If your three good tires still have a lot of tread left, I would suggest that you put two of them in the back and buy two new RE92's putting them in the front. Save the extra good one as a spare. If your three "good" tires are not so good, then you might just want to buy two REAL CHEAP new tires putting them in the front and drive until they all wear out, and then replace them all with your favorite performance tires. How 'bout that?
wedge what are you talking about my re730's are quite and i have over 35k on them.. and i drive on the freeway 3-4 5 times a week.. also trash the re92.. the tire is absolute garbage.. get yourself a set of re730's you will thank me..
I was told the A520s were discontinued by NTB as well. The A550 is the replacement, which is what I have on my Supra. Yokohama doesn't offer much info on the A550 as they were made primarily for Sears and NTB (same companies).
They have a treadwear of 360 and are V rated.
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how good is the A5 then, since it is relaceing the A520 then it would have all of the A520 traits right or even better. What i love about A520 is the reuce rad noise and the warrentyon it taht discount tire give me.
Absolutely NOT logical! It's not even a good idea to just replace the bad one with a brand new RE92 (unless the three good tires have VERY low miles on them). The tires on the same axle should be identical in every aspect.
If your three good tires still have a lot of tread left, I would suggest that you put two of them in the back and buy two new RE92's putting them in the front. Save the extra good one as a spare. If your three "good" tires are not so good, then you might just want to buy two REAL CHEAP new tires putting them in the front and drive until they all wear out, and then replace them all with your favorite performance tires. How 'bout that?
So it's ok putting two different tires up front and keeping the rear ones stock? I'm just thinking of the most cost effective thing to do here. I don't really have the budget to buy 4 brand new tires, especially when my stock ones are still decently good.
Are the A550's similar to how the A520's are? If so, they perform the same yes?
Originally posted by HoNdAHaXoR wedge what are you talking about my re730's are quite and i have over 35k on them.. and i drive on the freeway 3-4 5 times a week.. also trash the re92.. the tire is absolute garbage.. get yourself a set of re730's you will thank me..
I have RE730s! How do you think I know they're so noisy? Check out the Tire Rack customer comments. Almost every person mentions the road noise. The A520s were better--and quieter. The RE730s have too-quick turn-in and odd up and down motions.
And any performance tire would seem good next to the RE92s--they're an all-season tire. Don't compare apples and oranges.
Spend some extra bucks and get a set of PZeros--then you'll thank me!
I replaced my RE 92's with a set of A550's from Sears and man it's like Night and Day...They're MUCH quieter and give much better grip that the stock re 92's... Im VERY pleased with them.
As far as just replacing 1 tire...It's NOT a problem if you keep the mix-matched pair in the REAR.. All the rear axle does is follow the front drive axle... It won't cause any problems with pulling, braking or traction whatsoever... This is the same thing major tire manufacturers will tell you... As long as the DRIVE axle has the same tires on there, youre fine...
The A550's are SUPER in my book! A friend of mine has the RE730s and he also swears by them!!! Either choice will be a great one over the RE92's!!!
I have a hard time putting too much stock in the customer comments on tirerack. There's no way of knowing what context they drove the tire in, or what other tires they've tried. In other words, the objectiveness of the review is questionable.
I did some "research" (a.k.a. asked people on some forums) on the tire noise issue a while back. I discovered that the people complaining of tire noise on the RE730's were ones with excessive camber. Something about the block design on the inside edge of the tires gets really noisy when they wear due to camber. So if you're only lowered like an inch or less, I doubt you'll have any complaints. But, I've never ridden on them, so take my advice for what it's worth.
I did drove on A520's for about 25,000 miles, and after about 12,000 they became the loudest damn things I'd ever ridden on. Even brand new, they had a nasty whining resonance right around 37 mph. My winter tires were silent in comparison.
And I disagree about mismatched tires not making a difference - even when it's not the drive wheels. In extreme situations, that one tire is going to have different properties than the rest of the car, making for unpredictable performance. Say you've got one crappy tire on the left rear. Under heavy braking, that tire is going to reach it's braking threshold before the rest, causing it to lock & the car to swerve. ABS may compensate some, but . . . .
And it will affect cornering as well. A hard right hand turn will put more weight on the bad tire, causing a potential oversteering situation, which won't exist on a hard left turn.
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I thought my RE730s were quiet until I put a set of snows on. The RE730's are much quieter then my Dunlop W10's but not nearly as quiet as my snow tires. It was a HUGE difference.
Originally posted by Daemione I have a hard time putting too much stock in the customer comments on tirerack. There's no way of knowing what context they drove the tire in, or what other tires they've tried. In other words, the objectiveness of the review is questionable.
I did some "research" (a.k.a. asked people on some forums) on the tire noise issue a while back. I discovered that the people complaining of tire noise on the RE730's were ones with excessive camber. Something about the block design on the inside edge of the tires gets really noisy when they wear due to camber. So if you're only lowered like an inch or less, I doubt you'll have any complaints. But, I've never ridden on them, so take my advice for what it's worth.
I did drove on A520's for about 25,000 miles, and after about 12,000 they became the loudest damn things I'd ever ridden on. Even brand new, they had a nasty whining resonance right around 37 mph. My winter tires were silent in comparison.
And I disagree about mismatched tires not making a difference - even when it's not the drive wheels. In extreme situations, that one tire is going to have different properties than the rest of the car, making for unpredictable performance. Say you've got one crappy tire on the left rear. Under heavy braking, that tire is going to reach it's braking threshold before the rest, causing it to lock & the car to swerve. ABS may compensate some, but . . . .
And it will affect cornering as well. A hard right hand turn will put more weight on the bad tire, causing a potential oversteering situation, which won't exist on a hard left turn.
Uh brah: frt brakes take 70% of the load...ABS will also make this mixmatched pair in the rear a NON ISSUE. Also: the rear axle is not a "drive axle" so when cornering hard, it aint gonna cause an oversteer problem cause the tires are just gripping the road/rolling at the same time..NOT BEING "driven" by a cv shaft. The rear is a follower....Not a driver.... Under EXTREME conditions: as long as the tread is good and the speed ratings are the same, it aint gonna matter if you have a RE92 with 8/32 and another tire with FULL depth on the rear... Now if you put a lower speed rated tire on the car/mixmatch that, then the perofrmance of the CAR is now limited by the lowest speed rated tire... BUT all the tires we've discussed so far are V rated..so no problems...I cna see how your theory works, but this isn't for a 4wd/awd vehicle... Even if you were to autocross the car with a mixmatched pair in the rear... You shouldn't have a problem...
what's your saying takes into account only acceleration along one axis. when the car is not traveling perfectly straight and level (and even then if there's wind) there are forces acting on the tires along all three axes. the ability of the tire to maintain traction under these various forces will vary based on the brand and model and size and condition and inflation.
if you put a very poor same size tire on any one wheel of the car it will affect performance. it will affect performance MORE on the front wheels since the prelude is front wheel drive. but it will still affect performance on a rear wheel. will you be able to notice it? maybe, maybe not. would the skidpad? probably.
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Originally posted by Neulude
Uh brah: frt brakes take 70% of the load...ABS will also make this mixmatched pair in the rear a NON ISSUE. Also: the rear axle is not a "drive axle" so when cornering hard, it aint gonna cause an oversteer problem cause the tires are just gripping the road/rolling at the same time..NOT BEING "driven" by a cv shaft. The rear is a follower....Not a driver.... Under EXTREME conditions: as long as the tread is good and the speed ratings are the same, it aint gonna matter if you have a RE92 with 8/32 and another tire with FULL depth on the rear... Now if you put a lower speed rated tire on the car/mixmatch that, then the perofrmance of the CAR is now limited by the lowest speed rated tire... BUT all the tires we've discussed so far are V rated..so no problems...I cna see how your theory works, but this isn't for a 4wd/awd vehicle... Even if you were to autocross the car with a mixmatched pair in the rear... You shouldn't have a problem...
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Originally posted by Neulude Uh brah: frt brakes take 70% of the load...ABS will also make this mixmatched pair in the rear a NON ISSUE. Also: the rear axle is not a "drive axle" so when cornering hard, it aint gonna cause an oversteer problem cause the tires are just gripping the road/rolling at the same time..NOT BEING "driven" by a cv shaft. The rear is a follower....Not a driver.... Under EXTREME conditions: as long as the tread is good and the speed ratings are the same, it aint gonna matter if you have a RE92 with 8/32 and another tire with FULL depth on the rear... Now if you put a lower speed rated tire on the car/mixmatch that, then the perofrmance of the CAR is now limited by the lowest speed rated tire... BUT all the tires we've discussed so far are V rated..so no problems...I cna see how your theory works, but this isn't for a 4wd/awd vehicle... Even if you were to autocross the car with a mixmatched pair in the rear... You shouldn't have a problem...
Schwett's comments are good - but I thought I'd add some.
In a right hand turn, more weight is transferred to the left side of the car. Vice versa on a left hand turn. So with a funky rear left tire, a hard right turn will overload the rear more quickly than a hard left turn.
On the braking issue, of course the front brakes take on more load than the rear. That's not the point. The point is that the brake distrubution is even left to right. So with one tire with less traction, it's going to reach it's limits sooner, causing it to possibly lock.
As far as the ABS issue, I'm not sure. I remember reading at one point about how different ABS systems have different capabilities. Some are able to control each brake individually, but most aren't able to do that. I want to say that standard Honda ABS has individual control on the front brakes, and controls the rears as one. But I could be mistaken - and I can't seem to find my source.
Anyone have any info on that?
Last summer I was forced to ride on one winter tire for a few miles due to a puncture. So three 205/50-16 A520's on stock wheels, and one 185/65-15 Blizzak on the right rear. It was pretty scary. Granted, that's an extreme example, with differing speed ratings, manufacturer, size, weight, tread, etc. . . . .
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