Ha.
Im stupid.
The oil sending unit is on the head?
The one for the light?
Whats the one just above the Oil FIlter? For the ECU?
COnfused.
I went to pick a new unit and when i did it had a different clip then the one i thought it should be. SO i looked around to a few different shops and finally someone understood and said the oil light it the one on the head and not the Block. DOH! this whole time i was confused.
Whats the one on the block above the oil filter for?
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AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
The sensor right at the top of the block between cylinders 2 and 3 is the knock sensor. The sensor for the dash oil light is the sensor right below the oil filter.
Don't you have a Helm's manual?
You really need to measure oil pressure at the oil pump, not in the head. The stock oil pressure sensor for the dash light is directly inline with the oil pump output, which is the correct place to measure oil pressure.
71dsp there is one ssensor above the filter and one below. Im assuming the one at the top is the knock and the one below is the Oil sending unit. Thats what you were saying right?
I was really getting confused there, i was getting alot of conflicting information. But i finally got it right.
Well since the new one i got still didnt have the right connector i used the one from the h22. So far so good. I let it idle for about 30 minutes and the oil pressure was at a steady 13 psi and the oil light never came on. Im thinking i got this problem solved. Well im wishing that i do. hahah
Yea PRelude787, this is a h23 vtec. Is the h23 OIl sending unit not compadable? I dont see why it wouldnt be. Ohh well no biggie.
Yea i have No helms. I need one badly. I have a Hanes, or is it chilton, whatever it sux but it does have all the specs i need and most major procedures. The helms is alot more in depth and it has a great wiring section.
__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
Originally posted by [SUB[EX]
Yea i have No helms. I need one badly. I have a Hanes, or is it chilton, whatever it sux but it does have all the specs i need and most major procedures. The helms is alot more in depth and it has a great wiring section.
I actually wish the helms' wiring section was better and more detailed.
One time my friend's RSX had a faulty multiplex control unit. We followed the helms procedure, and instead of repairing one little short, the helms said to "replace the unit", which was about $300. So I said **** that, and I ripped the unit open, and found the open in the wire trace myself. Damn you helms.
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The Trapezoid of Death is back.
The Helm's isn't written for mechanics that take electronic units apart to repair them. Doesn't that make sense? There is an electrical Helm's manual, but it basically covers wiring and such.
So are we talking about an H23 engine here? I don't know how, but I thought we were talking about an H22.
I also edited my mistake. The oil pressure switch for the dash light is below the oil filter boss.
By the way, the switch turns on the dash light at around 7.5 PSI.
Buy a Helm's. I couldn't imagine doing this kind of work without it. I have TWO 5Gen Helm's manuals, and even a 4Gen Helm's!
Originally posted by 71dsp The Helm's isn't written for mechanics that take electronic units apart to repair them. Doesn't that make sense? There is an electrical Helm's manual, but it basically covers wiring and such.
Yea I know, but I figured a quick 10 minute repair is a lot faster than replacing a $300 unit, and waiting for the damn part to come in if the dealer's don't have it in stock
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The Trapezoid of Death is back.
I used a Helms when i did my first engine swap. So i have had some time with it. But yea i could use one. One of these days ill pick one up. Right now i need every $$ i can just to get this bish running correctly. If i need to replace any part over 30$ at this point i would have to wait a few weeks to find the cash. Thats how poor i am. haha
i didnt mean to correct you, but i just wanted to make sure you made a mistake and i wasnt just stupid and not understanding again. ha
Thx for the help. I really appreciate it.
__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
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