Whats the difference between the different ignition wires
I've seen Magnecor Competition wires, Nology Hot Wirez, Neuspeed wires, etc. etc. etc. I know out stock 5th gens use NGK wires and NGK plugs to begin with, so what should I do in terms of the ignition. I have close to 57 thousand miles and I haven't changed the rotor or cap or wires or plugs. I just can't figure out which wires to get or if they really matter.
i went with Magnecore only because i wanted to brighten up the engine bay, and eventually ill get a MSD Ignition, but you could just get some new stock wires...theyre good enough...
youre also going to want to change cap/rotor and plugs
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-Anthony- PSN/Xbox Live GT: Evoking1230
2005 EVO VIII-SOLD/R.I.P.
2000 Honda Prelude SH - Gone But Not Forgotten
They main thing you are paying for in more expensive wires is the silicone tubing which resists higher temperatures and won't break down. The Nologys are the exception but very few people seem to be happy with them. As for those $275 Spoon wires, who knows why they are so much. Greedy JDM manufacturers!
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
If you're N/A with just simple bolt-ons, and you don't have an MSD ignition, just go with the stock OEM wires. Those are actually the best for this application. It's by dyno proven that OEM ones give a smoother power delivery than aftermarket ones. And it's not like aftermarket wires are gonna give you any more power than OEM anyways. Also, some people have had a high-pitched noise commiting from their stereo after switching to aftermarket wires, which disappeared when they went back to stock OEM ones. Just go with the OEM.
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Black 2001 5-spd
I/H/Hi-flowCat/E/P/VAFC/DC Short Shifter
Eibach Prokit/KYB AGX/Neuspeed front strut brace/Tanabe rear strut brace/Suspension Techniques rear sway
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
Originally posted by axio It's by dyno proven that OEM ones give a smoother power delivery than aftermarket ones.
If you dont mind my asking, where are the dyno plots that show this? I dont see how a set of ignition wires could negatively effect the characteristics of an engine unless they were installed improperly (poor connection) or were just old/damaged. As for myself, I like Magnecors. They are expensive initially, but in my experience they last longer than any set of wires Ive used, on any car Ive owned. If I didnt use the Magnecors, Id probably use NGK's, Ive never heard any bad comments on them.
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2001 Prelude Base (#173 DSP)
Electron Blue Pearl
A lot of go faster, turn harder parts.
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Black 2001 5-spd
I/H/Hi-flowCat/E/P/VAFC/DC Short Shifter
Eibach Prokit/KYB AGX/Neuspeed front strut brace/Tanabe rear strut brace/Suspension Techniques rear sway
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
I checked out the links. If Im reading this right, and Id like to think I am, they did these runs back to back, with 1 run on each set of wires. If so, that variation could be anything: intake manifold heatsoak, a temperature change in the dyno bay, someone moving a blower in front of/away from the car, etc. Ive had my car dynoed twice, three runs each time, and each run was slightly different, just like the results we see here. Now if they did three to four runs on each set to account for the small variations that occur during dyno testing, and took the best results for each, then Id be convinced. So my position still stands: I agree that (quality) aftermarket wires usually dont add any horsepower or torque, I just dont think they cost you any either.
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2001 Prelude Base (#173 DSP)
Electron Blue Pearl
A lot of go faster, turn harder parts.
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Originally posted by [SUB[EX] Im using Borg Warner now, should i switch to NGK?
Its up to you. I dont see how you could go wrong with NGK's. Are you having trouble with the Borg Warners (misfires, radio interference, wires popping off, arcing through wires)?
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2001 Prelude Base (#173 DSP)
Electron Blue Pearl
A lot of go faster, turn harder parts.
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Factory wires are adequate for the job. Even when you have an after market ignition and various parts, the wire, regardless of manufacture, is almost the same. Slight changes make it not worth the argument.
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do the cap and rotor before getting wires though.
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