If the valves are out of adjustment on your car can they still be quiet? i don't think my valves have been adjusted in a long time! and with a major loss in top end and e/t's. they are faily quiet with only a little clack here and there. someone who knows please help me out asap.
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93 si 2.3L non-VTEC
DC sports header
AEM pulleys
Akimoto intake
OBX muffler 2.25 piping
ACT 278lbs. clutch
14.7@93.9mph2.16/60ft.511r/t
I just had my valves adjusted. I couldn't hear them at all, but I don't know when the previous owner had them done (if at all).
But when I got the car back it felt more lively, and VTEC seemed a bit better too...seemed to have a bit more 'go' in it.
Worth getting it done.
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93 VTEC 4WS & TC (JDM)
"and on the seventh day, God created VTEC"
It is easy. 12 mm box end wrench, flat head screw driver and feeler gauge. Just adjusted my valves today. Anyway, it should help if it hasn't been done.
i have only 18k miles on my car and i hear my valves ticking. it has too low mileage to be adjusting the valves, anybody have this problem at a similar mileage like me?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KQ: i have only 18k miles on my car and i hear my valves ticking. it has too low mileage to be adjusting the valves, anybody have this problem at a similar mileage like me?</font>
I've heard of a few people adjusting (or at least checking) them every 15K miles if they drive it pretty hard and go to redline more often than your average Honda owner. Can't hurt, and if you can do it yourself you only spend a little time you could spend sleeping or something (or whatever you choose).
Hey guys have a question, my Helm manual should be here next week, and the first thing i wana do is adj my valves (never done them before, but ill give it a try), my question is where and for how much do i get a feeler gauge.
For the 5Gen, you will also need the Honda tool (or Snap On) to adjust the valves. The locking nut is too deep into the head to use a wrench. Of course, you need all the basic tools as well. A torque wrench is a necessity, too, don't forget that!
I adjust mine every 10k or so, more often during race season.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
I want try it myself but I'm confused about how to turn the cams. I heard some people move the car while in 1st gear. But that sounds kind of strange to me. The Helm service manual says rotate the crankshaft..how?..what is the best and/or easiest way to do this? Also should you replace the head cover gasket each time?
Thanks.
To rotate the crank, get a 19mm socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Either put the car on a jack stand, or turn the wheels all the way to the left. Then look behind the left front wheel. There is a hole on the splash guard. Stick the 19mm socket, and extension in the hole, and attach the ratchet. then you can turn the crank. make sure to remove the spark plugs before doing this, otherwise you have to turn the motor, and fight commpression at the same time. It is not rewuired to replace the gasket everytime, as long as it isn't dry and cracked. make sure to add some Honda Bond, or high temp RTV to the little corners around each cam end cap.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KQ: i have only 18k miles on my car and i hear my valves ticking. it has too low mileage to be adjusting the valves, anybody have this problem at a similar mileage like me?</font>
Well..I just reset my ECM and while letting it idle for a bit, I definately noticed the valves ticking. And I only have 10.5k miles. I guess I'm a VTEC whore OK, I'm over it now and ready to go dangerously close to redline again.
is it really necessary to have a snap-on or honda tool to do a valve adjustment on a 5th gen??? i thought a screw driver would work? what do you need, ratchet and socket set, feeler gauges, and screw driver... that's all right?
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Where'd you go? I was ONLY in 3rd...
Mmmmm - Girl scout cookies - made with real girl scouts!
The special Snap on tool, is basically a combination socket, wrench, and a hole for a screwdriver. That way you can adjust the set screw and keep the nut from moving. then when you tighten the lock nut, you can hold the set screw still. Pretty easy. It can be done with just the socket, screwdriver and feeler gauge. It's easier to use a longer angled feeler gauge, and come from behind each valve to get the measurement. And make sure you do the measurment in mm, and not in inches. For example it would be like 0.17mm +/- 0.02mm. Make sure to do the adjustments when the engine is cold, below 100 degrees.
Turn the engine counter clockewise. The importance of the RTV or Honda Bond is to keep oil from leaking around these vital areas. When you pull the cover off you will see where the gasket sticks. Basically there is some small flat spots on the gasket. Clean the old RTV off the gasket and the head, and put new RTV in it's place.
i got one for you. i just did my valves and are all within spec. yet i stil hear the tapping right at the distributor end. its not constant but when i hear it, it seems loud. i checked my adjustments 2 times since, and all are still is spec. can someone help me out? is my valvetrain done for? its a jdm with less than 40k on her.
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don't touch me . . .
aim:jR93si4ws
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Dr. James: To rotate the crank, get a 19mm socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Either put the car on a jack stand, or turn the wheels all the way to the left. Then look behind the left front wheel. There is a hole on the splash guard. Stick the 19mm socket, and extension in the hole, and attach the ratchet. then you can turn the crank. make sure to remove the spark plugs before doing this, otherwise you have to turn the motor, and fight commpression at the same time.
- snip - </font>
It's a lot easier (and doesn't require tools) to jack up one wheel and put the car in gear- turn the wheel and you turn the engine. The size of the wheel makes it easy to grip and gives a great mechanical advantage, also allows you to turn the engine more precisely.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci: It's a lot easier (and doesn't require tools) to jack up one wheel and put the car in gear- turn the wheel and you turn the engine. The size of the wheel makes it easy to grip and gives a great mechanical advantage, also allows you to turn the engine more precisely. </font>
Sounds easier...but does this put any extra stress on anything? Does it matter which front wheel you lift? What direction do you turn the wheel (lets say left front) to rotate the crank counter-clockwise?
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OK, I'm over it now and ready to go dangerously close to redline again. 
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