BTW - I changed the fuse and everything was going ok until tonight. I turned my right blinker on and the lights went out again....then after I turned they came back on...?!
Just for grins, you might take the dimmer switch out of the circuit. They should be at full bright in that scenario. See what happens. If you have a short then you need to pull out the offending assembly. If you have a bad relay, contact, ground, or switch, then you may get intermittent failures like you are seeing.
Page 23-43 in the HELM shows the list of things that would not light if it was only the fuse or anything tracing back to the battery. Front and rear parking lights get power the same way.
Are you using HIDs right off the OEM harness? It could be the Combination light switch contacts burned out. Those startups can be hard on the switch without a seperate harness.
You can trace the cicuit on page 23-70 to isolate the problem.
BTW - I changed the fuse and everything was going ok until tonight. I turned my right blinker on and the lights went out again....then after I turned they came back on...?!
sounds like something is pulling to much voltage and deactivating the relay on the circuit for the dash?
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2006 Lexus IS350
"May future generations look back on our work and say that these men and women who, in a moment of great crisis, stood up to their politicians, the opinion-makers, and the establishment, and saved their country" — Ron Paul
have u touched the signal wires at all? they might be touching a when u use the signals they will blow the fuse everytime.
Quote:
BTW - I changed the fuse and everything was going ok until tonight. I turned my right blinker on and the lights went out again....then after I turned they came back on...?!
lights wouldnt come back on if the fuse blew
__________________
2006 Lexus IS350
"May future generations look back on our work and say that these men and women who, in a moment of great crisis, stood up to their politicians, the opinion-makers, and the establishment, and saved their country" — Ron Paul
Sounds like you have a short somewhere. What kind of wiring have you had done as in other electrical components added on? Indiglos? JSM Sidemarkers? HIDs? Neons? Strobes? All that rice stuff. Hahaha. Just in case - pull the fuse and look at it. See if it looks melted but still attached. If so, I say wires may be touching each other somewhere.
--Sam
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i have your problem - but reversed. my lights come on when my switches are off - and its random. sometimes its just the lights on the left side, sometimes its just the ones on the right, and sometimes its all the lights....and its draining my battery. wats the best way to find a short? =P
I had this problem twice, first time it was the indiglo gauges i had, "the power wire for the inverter was cut by some metal behind the gauges over time and caused a short." The second time was my front bumper light that i didnt use anymore so it was routed to sit in the engine bay, but i wasnt careful in covering the socket where the lightbulb goes into, and that was touching metal...
These are probably isolated to me, but maybe it'll give you some ideas on what to look for.
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sounds like something is pulling to much voltage and deactivating the relay on the circuit for the dash?
nothing will ever "pull" more than 12v on your car, if it's hooked up to the battery. it may draw more current, via a short, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girl n-a Lude
i have your problem - but reversed. my lights come on when my switches are off - and its random. sometimes its just the lights on the left side, sometimes its just the ones on the right, and sometimes its all the lights....and its draining my battery. wats the best way to find a short? =P
pull the fuses on the circuits corresponding to the problem. disconnect your wiring harness on the other end (where it connects to the load, like lights or a motor). then take out your ohmeter (or multimeter with ohm/continuity setting), and put one of the leads from the meter to the chassis, and one to the wire that comes from the fusebox. if it shows "0 ohms", you have a connection from your "supposed-to-be-insulated" wire, to the chassis 'ground'. Your case, it may be the wire along the way to the front or back of your car... this generally wont happen, because wires are installed where they will be free from mechanical harm (ie: vibrations/crush-inations). it will likely be a bad connection at the connector, your relays are broken, your black "ground" wires aren't making proper contact, or your device is shot. "everything in between" is the wires...
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