Ok well I've done some searching on brakes. Mine are warped really bad, anyway, I found out that the stock replacements warp bad also, so Im leaning toward a big brake kit. Problem is I have no Idea want kind to get. I figure I will sell my stock wheels with the tires that only have like 2000 miles on them. How much should I ask for the wheel/tire combo, and what should I do for brakes?
You might not get a whole lot for the stock wheels/tires, but it's worth a shot in the classifieds. Maybe $400? I really have no idea.
I'm, also doing the big brake upgrade (any day now) and this is what I'll be going with:
Volk TE37 17x7.5 48mm offset with Brembo Gran Turismo calipers 12.9" slotted rotors up front (will have to use a wheel spacer). Stock rear calipers with Brembo stock-sized slotted rotors in the rear. I'm using Carbotech Panther+ pads in the rear, and a more track oriented front pad. Tires will be 225/45/17 race rubber (there are a number of vendors of that size). Oh, yeah and a front brake duct system as soon as I figure out how to do it well... Should make stopping very fun!
Damn BDB, that's setting you back at least 5 grand!!! I envy you, though. You will brake better than Porsches with that setup.
The only big brake kit that might work with a 16" wheel is the Rotora kit. Specialque is selling one at a great price. Baer makes a reasonably priced kit also. The AEM, Wilwood, and Brembos all cost around $2k.
You could save yourself a lot of money and just buy some quality rotors and good pads. I upgraded to Rotora rotors and Axxis Ultimate pads and my braking is dramatically better than stock--all for $400 too!
__________________
97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
I have a friend here who is a Brembo dealer, so I can get a good deal while the CDN dollar is strong.
I spent a lot of time looking at the other big brake kits and wanted something that had a good name and is used in real world racing situations with good support, and is designed for the Prelude (just for ease of installation). I spent a lot of time looking at the Speed World Challenge touring cars at Mosport ro see what they were using. Almost all were on SSR Comps with Alcon calipers. Brembo was the 2nd biggest name there.
I was going for the Alcon 4 piston setup but there isn't a kit available specifically for the Prelude and it seems a bit more piece-meal then when compared to the Brembo kit. It's also more expensive. Wilwood doesn't have what I want (oh if I only had a WRX or Civic). And AEM - no thanks.
I already have Carbotech Panther+ pads all around with good quality brake fluid, ss lines, brembo blanks and no dust sheilds. Track events with any elevation change kills what I have currently. It does work really well on the street, but on the track the Prelude is a fairly heavy car and the brake system it has is designed for use by a lighter car (i.e. ITR). I also think that brake ducting would make a huge difference -- I'll have to invest a bunch of time into that project soon.
Check with Specialque to see what the Rotora kit will fit. I almost want to say that it will work with SOME 16" wheels.
BDB, I remember reading about how someone had gotten a Wilwood system for their Prelude. I think they had to get Wilwood to do something to an existing kit, but it worked somehow. As for the ducting, I think it would be easy on the passenger's side. You just have to run a duct from the foglight opening through the hole where the stock resonator used to sit and through the wheel well. I don't know about the driver's side however. You just have to make some kind of dip in the tube and a hole so water won't get sprayed on the discs. Let us know if you figure it out. It should be a pretty cheap mod, just labor intensive.
__________________
97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by h22a193 Ok well I've done some searching on brakes. Mine are warped really bad, anyway, I found out that the stock replacements warp bad also, so Im leaning toward a big brake kit. Problem is I have no Idea want kind to get. I figure I will sell my stock wheels with the tires that only have like 2000 miles on them. How much should I ask for the wheel/tire combo, and what should I do for brakes?
Before you get a big brake kit, maybe you should look into why you are warping your rotors in the first place. Is this car driven only on the street? (No track days, drivers ed. track events, etc) If its a street only car, and the brakes arent heavily taxed, its an outside factor. Do you torque the lug nuts to spec, or do you just tighten them until you cant anymore? Do you do a lot of hard stopping and then just park the car w/o allowing the brakes to cool down? Are these original Honda rotors, or aftermarket rotors from Autozone, Pep boys, etc? Id figure out what was going on before dropping $500 to $1000+ on a brake kit. My stock rotors lasted 40K street miles and 2 1/2 autocross seasons (10 events per season, 4 runs per event, plus fun events, driving schools and test and tune days) on Carbotech Super Street F pads, and they didnt warp. Of course, this is all just my opinion and advice, I can't tell you what do with your car.
__________________
2001 Prelude Base (#173 DSP)
Electron Blue Pearl
A lot of go faster, turn harder parts.
__________________
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 As for the ducting, I think it would be easy on the passenger's side. You just have to run a duct from the foglight opening through the hole where the stock resonator used to sit and through the wheel well. I don't know about the driver's side however. You just have to make some kind of dip in the tube and a hole so water won't get sprayed on the discs. Let us know if you figure it out. It should be a pretty cheap mod, just labor intensive.
The driver's side is also empty behind the fender since I removed the washer resevior. The RealTime RSX had nice aluminum tubes bolted into position.... Ah, I'll figure something out.
the aem big brake kit will fit under some 16 inch wheels, there is a guy in my town who had the big brake kit and had 16 inch rota c-8's. So who knows the big brake kit might fit under the stock wheels.
__________________ 2.233 60'!, 15.533 at 88.96mph?
I/H/E Konis/Neuspeed Race .."the Prelude is the best Integra ever made......." - Car & Driver, 1999
Have you looked in to the Stoptech kit? Top notch quality for a cheaper price than Brembo, and a little higher quality than some of the lesser known brands.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.