Search H-T.com. There are a few threads over there that discuss this in length. I also believe there are a couple of threads here that discuss this.
One problem is that custom rods would be needed, and for the expense, custom pistons could also be had. I also believe the valve angles are different, so the valve reliefs in the pistons will not be shaped correctly for the H22 head.
Just out of morbid curiosity (or that I am just a glutton for punishment), why are you even interested in doing this? If you're that worried, I'd sleeve the engine and use forged pistons. If you're worried about sleeving the engine, use replacement liners from Darton that do not replace the entire sleeve structure. The stock liners are machined out, and the Dartons are installed. The original sleeve structure is preserved, but now the liner is ductile iron, not FRM. The cost is not high, around $500 for parts and installation labor (much cheaper than a full sleeve install), and you can run custom pistons that are going to be stronger and lighter than most of the stock pistons out there. Plus, you'll be able to bore and hone the cylinder to give you the exact piston to cylinder wall clearances that are needed.
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Billy - 98 Prelude
#27 H2 NASA TX HondaChallenge
#27 PTB NASA TX Performance Touring Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty. -- Peter Egan
Originally posted by 71dsp use replacement liners from Darton that do not replace the entire sleeve structure. The stock liners are machined out, and the Dartons are installed. The original sleeve structure is preserved, but now the liner is ductile iron,
How's this for an FI application??
Either way I think its a much better alternative for running aftermarket pistons/rods. Definately priced right.
the reason for asking all these question is to figure out where my best route is.. i mean.. if i never ask then i'll never know
i have some time till i have to make up my mind on what to do and that's just why i'm figuring out my options
1. build to stock spec and call it a day, use extra money on tuning among other expenses that come with having a nitrous system
2. build to stock spec but send pistons to get coated with that heat coating (i still need to research that coating a lil more in depth to figure out what it will do for me)
3. build bottom end with forged pistons, forged rods, re-sleeve block (this won't happen cause it's way out of my budget)
3. build bottom end with a set of k-series or f-series pistons, have the con-rod re-brushed and that might lead me to having stronger pistons and still not put a hole in my wallet (this may happen if i figure out if it can happen within reason of course)
these past days with all the responces have given me some valuable information.. about the block itself and materials used.. i mean.. i think it just makes me a better person to be able to tell somebody why i can't use a forged piston in my block but they can in there b-series engine.. i couldn't explain it before and felt stupid.. but now i have knowledge and a little more wisdom
Originally posted by yohan420 How's this for an FI application??
Either way I think its a much better alternative for running aftermarket pistons/rods. Definately priced right.
Okay, if you're not pushing a lot of boost. While the liners are stronger than the stock liners, they still depend on the integrity and strength of the stock sleeve structure for support. If that support is not strong enough to withstand the power generated by the engine, there is only so much these liners can do.
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Billy - 98 Prelude
#27 H2 NASA TX HondaChallenge
#27 PTB NASA TX Performance Touring Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty. -- Peter Egan
Originally posted by tenzola the reason for asking all these question is to figure out where my best route is.. i mean.. if i never ask then i'll never know
There is something to be said for research as well. Sometimes you can answer your question much faster yourself by doing some searching.
Quote:
Originally posted by tenzola i have some time till i have to make up my mind on what to do and that's just why i'm figuring out my options
1. build to stock spec and call it a day, use extra money on tuning among other expenses that come with having a nitrous system
This is certainly the best route, expense-wise.
Quote:
Originally posted by tenzola 2. build to stock spec but send pistons to get coated with that heat coating (i still need to research that coating a lil more in depth to figure out what it will do for me)
This is what I have done with my project. It's a long story, but my stock pistons are coated.
Quote:
Originally posted by tenzola 3. build bottom end with a set of k-series or f-series pistons, have the con-rod re-brushed and that might lead me to having stronger pistons and still not put a hole in my wallet (this may happen if i figure out if it can happen within reason of course)
I honestly think this approach will cost more in the long run than sleeving the block and using OTS rods and pistons or even custom rods and pistons.
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Billy - 98 Prelude
#27 H2 NASA TX HondaChallenge
#27 PTB NASA TX Performance Touring Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty. -- Peter Egan
i completly agree with you on the option for going that entire custom route.. there's really no point to it cause it hasn't been done to the point where people know about it and feel safe with it..
but as far as you sending your pistons out to get coated.. how much did that run you and where did you get that done?
No boost, NA only. I think boosting on a stock bottom end and without a stand alone ECU is plain silly, but that's another discussion.
There's nothing wrong with custom rods or pistons, as long as it is done right, and the engine builder checks (and re-checks) everything. I think the problem is that there are too many people just throwing parts into an engine without checking the proper items prior to, during, and after assembly.
IIRC, the coating was about $120 for all 4 pistons. Top ceramic coating and a moly skirt coating. It was done through Endyn while they had my engine.
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Billy - 98 Prelude
#27 H2 NASA TX HondaChallenge
#27 PTB NASA TX Performance Touring Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty. -- Peter Egan
The new 2004 s2000 engine is a 2.2... can anyone find out what the specs on those pistons are? Are they forged? Compress ratio? I doubt that engine has much in common with the H-series, but maybe the pistons from that engine could be a possibility. Again, I doubt it but if your really set on this, those might be worth looking into.
Originally posted by gju614 The new 2004 s2000 engine is a 2.2... can anyone find out what the specs on those pistons are? Are they forged? Compress ratio? I doubt that engine has much in common with the H-series, but maybe the pistons from that engine could be a possibility. Again, I doubt it but if your really set on this, those might be worth looking into.
From what I know, the only change made to the engine was the stroke. It was increased to 90.7mm. The pistons are the same.
__________________
Billy - 98 Prelude
#27 H2 NASA TX HondaChallenge
#27 PTB NASA TX Performance Touring Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty. -- Peter Egan
My recomendation would be to wait a little more, save up and build up the bottom end. It will save you headaches in the end. It has taken me almost 2yrs to collect the right parts and get my set up done right. But in the end it will be workth it. I have a spare bare block for sale if your interested in going this route(plus I'm local ).
P.S. I was the Blue prelude with Greddy lip at the CPC midwest meet.
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Sash
"When you start down the slippery slope of actually adding HP to your engine, it is like trying crack for the first time. The added rush feels awesome, but soon enough you will get used to that dosage, and the amount must be upped. " - author unknown
If your doing a budget build just use the type s pistons. Obviously you want high compression, so juat use what fits. Type S are far the cheapest process too.
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