Well lately my idle has been a bit rough when the car is warm, it doesn't fluctuate but I can definitly feel some vibrations in the steering wheel. If I rev it up to just under 1K RPM, the vibration stops, I did do the test for the IAC valve like it says in the Helm but it seems okay. Anybody have a suggestion what could be causing this? In another section of the Helm it says it could be the injectors so I might try my H23 injectors I have home to see if it makes a difference...
Also lately I could hear something rattle when it was idling and I couldn't figure out what it was and it was getting worst so today I opened up the hood and took a look to see if I could see something rattling and it turns out my A/C fan's mount all broke and the fans had fallen about an inch so I unplugged it and removed it. I'll have to go see my mechanic to see if he can weld it back on.
A broken mount can cause all types of nasty vibrations
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
It's funny that you mention that because when I play with the gas pedal I can feel the engine rocking back and forth so I was wondering if it was my motor mounts that were causing that problem so it's possible that's what's causing the problem when I'm idling also...
It's not easy to keep an old car in shape... just bought a new header, I need a new exhaust, now I might need some motor mounts... plus a few small things I got to take car of... oh well I'll do what I can this summer and then the car is going back to storage for the winter and I'll continue with the list next year
Just take a look at your four motor mounts, and look for any cracks. They usually are pretty easy to spot when they are broken.
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
All Preludes are at risk now for shot motor mounts- they are all old enough now that tears or dryrotting is likely.
If you are having trouble with a low idle, first check plugs/cap/rotor wires (replace if older than 5-7 years) and do a valve adjustment. You would be amazed how common of a problem that is.
An O2 sensor is in order if it's older than 5-7 years or 70k miles as well.
^^ yea.. i've never really replaced an o2 before.. guess I've had good luck.
__________________
XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
All Preludes are at risk now for shot motor mounts- they are all old enough now that tears or dryrotting is likely.
If you are having trouble with a low idle, first check plugs/cap/rotor wires (replace if older than 5-7 years) and do a valve adjustment. You would be amazed how common of a problem that is.
An O2 sensor is in order if it's older than 5-7 years or 70k miles as well.
I did change my plugs, cap and rotor but not the wires, I think they are about 5 years old, I also changed the fuel filter, O2 sensor is already on the list since I'm getting a CEL for it once in a while and I believe it's still the original one that's on there.
I guarantee you'll see an improvement in fuel economy and that it's much slower to react to changes in AFR than new.
On the contrary, mpg suffered for the better part of a few years until the intake manifold/EGR valve were taken off and cleaned thoroughly. Now, mpg = 25-27 mixed highway/local.
Your suggestion is noted, but I'm going to adhere to the "don't fix it if it ain't broke" rule.
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guess I've had good luck. 
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