Recently my car got hit while I was parked and the person who hit me drove off. Because I only have liability on my insurance I now have to pay for it. Im going to post pictures tomorrow, but had a few questions maybe some of you would have some input on. I got quoted $2,100 to fix the damage to my driver side quarter panel. This includes everything down to the paint.
I am purchasing a wwrs kit because my car is going to need to go into paint anyway. My first question is, because my front and rear bumpers have chips and bubbles already, would it be a good idea to repaint the whole car at the time of repair? Remember I am getting my whole quarter panel pulled and re-painted already, as well as parts of my door. I really don't like the idea of color matching because I am a perfectionist. (Opinions needed)
My second question is ido you think that the process would be cheaper if I stayed with the same car color? Like do they have to prime the whole car or just the area's that need to be attended to (damage, bumpers, scratches). Because if they do have to prime the whole car I might be interested in changing colors because it would be the same price.
I really love Ficus Green Pearl though, I havent seen many FGP's around with bronze wheels (wedsport sa-90). Just picture in your head a brand new FGP paintjob!
So should I repaint the whole lude? and if so Does the whole car need to be primed? Also give some opinions on color changing. What color do you think would look good on a lude with tein ss and bronze wedsports?
Thanks guys!
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Last edited by twisterfx : 04-29-2008 at 04:01 PM.
Any time you start adding stuff, the price will increase, as it is material and labor spent by the body shop. So, with that said, you can do whatever you like as long as you have the funds to do so.
If you are adding a kit, you might as well paint the front and rear bumpers along with the kit so that the color matches.
If you are a perfectionist and you want to do a repaint properly, you will find you will want to paint EVERYTHING - this includes and not limited to, the engine bay, the full interiior cage, door jambs, trunk and EVERYTHING that is painted. If you don't care much about the full interior, then all the visible painted areas on the car.
I'd say just keep the car the color that it is. You can do a full repaint easily and don't have to worry about the color mismatch on separate panels. Or if the price is way too much, then just fix the damaged area and call it a day.
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. -|- Occupation: Ex-Engineer @ Boston Micromachines Corporation
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
Sorry I haven't posted pictures of the car yet, it's been raining The more I think about it, the more I would just like to repaint the exterior FGP. The other color I was thinking about was white, but do you guys think it would cost more to prep and paint a color switch? As long as I am staying FGP I will only paint the exterior, the door jambs and underneath the hood are fine, I am not THAT perfectionist!
If you repaint your car to whatever color, you will have to pay more - everything has labor and material costs. So, the $2100 that is for the driver's side quarter panel + labor/materials for the rest of the car. Maybe another grand two on top depending on the shop.
If your car is black, repainting the exterior to FGP will be ok. Not great as the door jambs and other areas will still be black. But everything goes with black. I would say do a complete job if you do white. Otherwise the engine bay, door jambs, and other areas will stand out more so than FGP on a black car.
If your car is a different color (red or blue or silver) then it is the same principle as white. Your original color will stand out in the engine bay, door jambs, trunk etc.
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. -|- Occupation: Ex-Engineer @ Boston Micromachines Corporation
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
Yeah I got ya. My car is already FGP, so I won't be needing to repaint the door jambs and such. So if I repaint the whole exterior of the car, do they have to prep and prime the whole thing? Or just the parts that need it? Sorry I've never taken my car in to get repainted before.
The shop will have to prep everything - this includes sanding and masking.
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. -|- Occupation: Ex-Engineer @ Boston Micromachines Corporation
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
•go buy some 500 grit wet/dry sand paper
•get you a bucket of water and a sponge
•sand very moderately (pressure wise)
- you will see white residue coming off, thats your clear coat
•keep sanding to a nice matte finish on the paint
don't need to apply primer if keeping it the same colour turns out real nice and will match the other color very easily...not sure why ppl insist on repainint the whole bumper or car for adding on lip kits clearly they need to get their paint code and match it with dupont...
your door and quarter panel may take you 2-4 hours to get a nice even look with the wet sanding--> matte finish, take it to a body shop, have them take care of the dent prolly 2-3 hours labor, bring them the paint 1 or 2 pints should do, you offer to do the wrapping of windows and trunk so only the door and panel will be painted (that'll save many hours there to do it right) then bring him the paint and clear coat
voila, easily less than 300 if you do those labor intensive things yourself
hmm.. I'm very much interested in prepping the car myself but have never done it before. I really would like to get the whole car re-painted, both bumpers really need it and I have various other scratches because the car used to be parked in NY. Plus the car would come out looking brand new.
So you are saying that If i am staying the same color, there is no need to prime the parts that do not need it, mostly just sanding?
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Last edited by twisterfx : 04-29-2008 at 05:21 PM.
righto, it actually is a great basecoat. I am keeping my sanded down EBP 01 and converting it to a darker blue for shows this up coming season. Other than the door and rear quarter panel i'm assuming you dont need any massive work done, so just wet sanding the clear coat off is going to help the new paint get a little more vibrant than your standard primer, the shop that has helped me with doing this has a tech who has worked on fiberglass and urethane chevy show cars for 30 years and he says when he was told about paint stacking with repainting a car everything got easier and it really does come out with layers of clear on top of the newer, fresher paint.
However, don't go off thinking that it is not possible to completely match your door and quarter panel to the paint that is on there already, most good shops can take your code and figure out what they need to do on the clear coats to match it to the rest of the car after the paint has cured.
When sanding it, just be sure to keep your fingers together and sand at an angle so you dont create any trenches with your fingers by sanding it from finger nail to palm, of course you can always alleviate any risk by getting a block sand tool and just wrapping the paper around it, but keep it very wet, the matte surface is really gonna like the fresh coat
Interesting information, thanks man. I'm going to go ahead with repainting the whole car, but I will for sure talk to who I am working with to see if I could cut my costs down by doing some work. I will let you know how everything works out. I really can't wait to see my car in the aftermath of all of this, it's kills me to look at the condition she is in!
The issue with off the shelf paint is that you will never get a 100% color match. Paint fades over time in sunlight. The other issue is that metal and plastic/urethane will never match 100% either. Two different materials with different absorbtion qualitites. Yes you don't have to paint the bumpers or do a full repaint when doing a lipkit. But, if the bumpers are scratched up or what nots, you might as well.
To be honest, I rather have the shop mix the paint and have it tinted to almost a 100% match. But this is just me.
Definitely see what the body shop says about you doing some of the prep work. Anything will help cut costs.
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. -|- Occupation: Ex-Engineer @ Boston Micromachines Corporation
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
^^-- hence why I said match it with Dupont and your color code and yes will turn out perfect each time unless you put 11 clear gloss coats on just the bumper, then might look kinda funky
On a side note. I had a hit and run back in 2000 and only had liability insurance as well. But because it was a hit and run, my policy covered it under uninsured motorist. It may be worthwhile to ask and save some of the cost.
I had called and they wouldn't file it under an uninsured motorist because they would have to prove that the person who hit me (they drove off) does not have insurance. So much for trying..
OEM lip kit is on the way so I might as well repaint the lude since the whole driver side is getting done and don't feel like color matching... Should I keep it FGP or go with a type of black? I also have bronze wedsport wheels.
keep the green it looks good, or get a similar color. paint the whole car, its easier to paint the whole car vs. blending & color match
you will pay more, but not too much more to do the whole thing.
ask a paint shop for the prices of both jobs whole paint job or partial, you ll see
if its 1000 to do the partial the whole thing would be like 1500
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The more I think about it, the more I would just like to repaint the exterior FGP. The other color I was thinking about was white, but do you guys think it would cost more to prep and paint a color switch? As long as I am staying FGP I will only paint the exterior, the door jambs and underneath the hood are fine, I am not THAT perfectionist!
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