No clue thats why I was asking, my thoughts were perhaps it was allowing iron to pass through more then normal and stay in the oil rather then filtering it out. To be honest I'm a total newbie at reading these reports and wanted to get a feel for my baseline test so I have an idea of what to watch and or change for my next one. I'm going to switch at 6k again and watch the replacement oil so I can compare apples to apples.
The oil filter would not filter these things out, they are disolved in the oil. The filter is for removing large particles.
Paulg: Is there any specific reason why you chose Castrol Syntec in general? There's a ton of oils that are better than that one which are quite a bit cheaper. I'd be a little worried about the iron too... The silicon isn't from a "clogged" air filter either, cleaning it will actually only increase the silicone content in the oil. As dirty filters actually clean air better (think of a beaver dam) unless you have deposits of sand directly on or under the filter. Do you live in a rural area that you need to go off pavement?
The motor oil was Syntec Blend, not the full Syntec. I was using a blend since I was worried about switching to full synthetic b/c of my milage. I had used Castrol GTX in my cars since was 17. My last car was running strong w/ 190k on the original engine. After reading a lot of the oil threads here on PO I decided to switch to Mobil 1. That was about a year ago. I have been having severe oil consumption since August or September. I did over-rev at BeaverRun last June. That could be why. I need to get a leakdown tester.
I know where the high silicon contect came from. Prior to this test sample (can't remember where it was on that oil change or the one before it) I had just installed my AEM CAI. It was missing the one of the clamps, the one that would clamp the air filter to the tube. My Dad, who was helping me swore that the filter would just stay on. I called AEM and got a new clamp but when I went to put it on I found that the flter had fallen off the tube. So I was running w/o a filter for about two weeks. I'm sure that's where the high silicone came from.
__________________ Paul
2009 Mazdaspeed3 | 1995 Miata | 1999 Crystal Blue Base - bought 6/13/02, sold 3/11/09
Just as an FYI.. oil takes around 10 minutes or a little more to warm up to temp. Though if you make trips that are longer than that regularly you oil won't show gasoline as it'll evaporate at the higher temps. If the last trip that you made before changing the oil was a really short one then that's probably the issue. Make sure that when you change your oil you change it hot, so drive around for 10-15 minutes to ensure that the oil is at the proper operating temp.
Im getting mine tested soon on my JDM motor. It will be 14k, second run of Mobil 1 5W30. I dont think it will read that much different of a healthy 40-60k us motor, but we shall see.
__________________
Jay
03 Acura CL-S 6 Spd Blk/Blk
95 Yamaha FZR600R **for sale**
^^^ $30 bucks with the TBN analysis but thats the last time I'll do that. With my iron being so high 6k is the most I'll go, I've been thinking of switching to dino oil and doing my changes at 3k to see if I can keep it cleaner.
i think this would even be useful for my miata... i found the source of my leak but still, i'd like to know how it is since the car sat for about 2 years and had less than a 1000 miles put on it..
Alright this is the 2nd Blackstone analysis I've had done and I have a feeling there's a problem. As you can tell, in the first analysis my iron and lead count was high (I ran almost 8000 mi on Mobil 1 Synthetic as I have always done). So this time I cut back to 6000 mi and the results were almost identical.
Hey ThatPreludeGuy you also had high iron counts, any ideas on what's causing it? I know bearing wear usually results from low oil but I NEVER let my oil get even a lil bit lower than the top dot. BTW I haven't used my nitrous in almost 2 yrs and prob vtec 3-4 times a week...
^^^ In my case I think it's either a cylinder breaking down or some relationship to a very slight bent valve. I have one cylinder that's low on compression and I eat oil pretty good so that would be my only thoughts without seeing the inside of the motor. The way I look at it is at 129k of VERY hard miles I'm not doing too bad since the car still starts and runs strong however there's no doubt that the writing on the wall is telling me one day I wont be so lucky.
Here's my latest the condition of my motor is geting worse but I didnt help it any by stretching my last change. Basically bad weather and Christmas kept me from doing it when I needed to. On this last change I've switched to 10w30 from 5w30 and I plan to make the next change at 5k per their recommendation.
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