First off, how crucial is it to have the parking brake on an auto and if it is is one side good enough???
Here's the story:
My passenger side parking brake doesn't really start to grab until I pull the
e-brake almost all the way up. But the driver side it's just with the first notch it starts grabbing. I followed the Helms manual about how to adjust it:
1) Loosen adjusting nut
2) Start car and depress the pedal several times to set self-adjusting brake
3) Check to see if the lever on the caliper is contacting the large pin
4) Pull e-brake up one notch
5) Check to see it rotors are slightly grabbing, if not tighten until it does
I had my rear calipers serviced and I installed the 5th gen Powerslot rear big brake kit with the 5 lug conversion, while keeping the 4th gen brake cables.
I had to loosen the adjusting nut so the cable can reach the hole so I could slip in the pin because of the relocation of the calipers for the big brake kit.
When I pulled up the e-brake one notch, both levers were about an equal distance from the large pin, but the driver side grabs slightly and the passenger doesn't at all. I have not driven the car yet (still on jack stands) and it has a brand new set of pads and big brake rotors.
Any help and details would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!!
Last edited by InterludeTypeR; 09-18-2007 at 04:42 PM.
Yes- not "crucial" but I would still get it fixed. If you have the cash for a BBK you should fix that. If not you need to re-evaluate your priorities.
The problem should be a relatively easy fix; both cables are pulled at the same time under the console just behind the e-brake and from there it should just be an adjustment at the calipers. Keep in mind that the problem may be at the caliper, check to see that it moves freely. With an older car, if you reused the old calipers, there may be a problem there.
I looked and there isn't one. I'd check to make sure that the parking brake arm on the caliper is returning OK, then make sure the cables are OK from the main cable back. Then make sure the adjustment under the console is OK. One caliper may grab a little before the other but they should both be able to stop both wheels if you go another notch or two on the handle.
I found out that the passenger side piston retracts into the caliper after the brake pedal is released, so thus it must travel much farther when you pull up the parking brake. The driver side piston is flush with the pad without pressing the pedal, so that's why the parking brake grabs tightly on that side when I pull it up one notch.
What could cause this???
On the passenger side, with the engine off, when I step on the pedal it grabs as usual but just a few seconds afterward it doesn't grab as much and I can force the rotors to turn a bit.
Could this be because of a lot of air bubbles are in the lines??? I replaced all my calipers (fronts are new 4-piston big brakes and rears were rebuilt with genuine honda kit) all with new pads, rotors, stainless lines, complete draining of fluid to new ATE fluid. I thought I bled the brakes good enough. Maybe not???
What the heck is going on????
Last edited by InterludeTypeR; 09-19-2007 at 07:21 PM.
Air can do that. It may also be a bad caliper. You say they came from a newer car... had they been off the car a while? If not capped immediately after removal it's not uncommon for them to sieze up if they sit for a while unused, open to the environment.
They have been off the 2001 car for a while with it capped most of the time. Not entirely sure how long it was uncapped for.
I had both rears gutted out (piston, gaskets etc) and powder coated properly (covering up the holes and such) and after I got it REBUILT properly with the genuine honda kit.
The piston comes out and pushes the pads but just retract after releasing the pedal (rear passenger ONLY). In other words, I don't have to compress the piston when I take the caliper off, since it's already retracted in.
I was trying to follow the Helms alittle bit by testing for leaks and such and I can FLOOR the pedal with the engine on but it's tight when the engine is off.
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed be able to floor it easily, right???
Please tell me what you think.
Last edited by InterludeTypeR; 09-19-2007 at 08:26 PM.
I thought we got all the air out already (no more bubbles on all 4 corners).
We stopped soon after not seeing any bubbles following the Helms bleed order.
Do I need to tap all the calipers with a rubber mallet to dislodge any bubbles?
What's the usual amount to bleed after not seeing bubbles?
I'm using the old fashion method of close and open hooked up to a snug clear tube emptying into an open bottle below.
Well I could be wrong, but I hope it's as simple as a rebleed. How often you need to do it...I dunno. But it's a pretty simple procedure so it's worth a shot, no?
i need help with this too,
on my 4 gen the drivers rear brake caliper piston is ou very far, i tried getting it back with a c clamp, but the *ucker wont budge, what do i need to do?
i need help with this too,
on my 4 gen the drivers rear brake caliper piston is ou very far, i tried getting it back with a c clamp, but the *ucker wont budge, what do i need to do?
That's because the rear caliper pistons HAVE TO BE TURNED IN NOT PUSHED
Use a screwdriver or this rear caliper piston tool
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